More brake on LRP Sphere comp 007?
 

Hello guys!
I wonder if it is possible to set more brake on the esc? I can find "initial brake" and "automatic brake" in the manual but would like to increase the brake-power. I dont want the wheels to lock but not far from it.

The esc is a LRP Sphere comp 007 with a 6,5t lrp brushless motor. The transmitter is a Hitec lynx 3D.

Really epreciate any help!
/Will

Is the LRP motor bonded or sintered? A sintered motor will give improved braking.

Deleted so as to not mislead any further :rolleyes:

The initial brake only adjusts how strong the brakes are initially, the overall braking strength is the same on all settings ;)

All it is really is like changing the brake 'curve' and 'punch' on a KO transmitter. A sintered motor will give stronger brakes overall, I'm not 100% sure but I think the lower turn motors have (slightly) stronger brakes too.

Thanks Rich, I stand corrected. I didn't realise the brakes were also based on a profile like the throttle.

In my defence I was reading the supplementary manual, whose explanation is not as expansive as the original user guide where it clearly states: "...allows you to set a certain level of 'hand-brake effect', i.e. you can vary the minimum brake effect when you apply the brake."

Next time I'll read the manual in full :rolleyes:

Haha, I don't think it's worded too well from what I remember :confused:

I run mine on 1-3-2-2 in the BJ4 with a sintered 5.5 and it's got plenty of brakes for me, unlike the QC2 which never had enough braking strength for the fairly heavy BJ4.

isnt the 1 in the 1-3-2-2 the auto battery setup and it cuts off when the battery pack drops to a certain level? (for Lipos)

Could be me, I think I just remember reading it recently...:eh?:

Can't remember lol

It's whichever one is NIMH mode :p

Its a bonded motor. Seems from your answers that there isn´t much to do exept try a sintered rotor.

Thanks for all the help! (Love the fast responses on this board!=))

I had a similar proble with my Nosram / LRP combination.

In my case it was that the settings had drifted from the original, once I reset my transmitter it had plenty of brakes to lock the wheels on a 2wd!

No I make a point of checking that I get full brake and full throttle before each run, it's not drifted since but it doesn't hurt to check ..... just be careful not to free rev a brushless motor when checking you get full travel.

Worth a try before changing the motor.

I am having this problem too. I can have either no brakes or as soon as I even think about touching the stick back I get lock up and instant 180 spins. There is nothing in between at all.

I run an LRP Eraser 10.5T brushless, Futaba 3GR transmitter and Sphere Comp 2007, settings are 1-1-2-3. The yellow setup sheet with the speedo says to set the unit up with the radio at 100% but then recommends running it at 80% on bonded motors (which mine is). The tranny has EPA on the steering but the throttle only has something called ATL-BK and if I adjust this to anything less than 100% I get absolutely no brakes at all and hitting things is getting expensive. It also means I am not fully confident with the car which means slow times.

Anybody else running this transmitter / speedo that can offer some advice.

That just sounds like either a speedo setup error or possibly a pot giving up on the tranny?

This does seem to be a problem with the Speedos ....... had it again yesterday and now have spoken to several other people who have also experienced the same!!!!!

Spoolio,
Is the Eraser rebuildable? Like can you clean the bearings, change the rotor, etc?

I hope its not the tranny, its only a few weeks old!

I think so, an advert in one of the mags said it was rebuildable and I'm sure you can change the bearings - I got it 'cos its cheap and its plenty fast enough for me. Running a 23T pinion it was outdragging plenty of cars in my heat down the straight, but it all went t*ts up at the corner as soon as I thought about braking - even in a straight line I was spinning out on minimal stick movement.

A problem with LRP Sphere Comps, or just in general? I dunno, am I expecting too much, I am pretty new at all this - but I did my first round with a boggo Tamiya kit speedo and it had reasonably well proportioned brakes rather than the all or nothing effect I have now.:confused:

Spoolio .... if the breaks feel very violent turn down the inital brake setting ... if the car doesn't coast in neutral then turn down the drag brake setting.

What I was refering to is not getting full brakes after a few runs as the speedo 'forgets' the correct end point. Happened a few times on both my LRP and Nosram brushless speedos ..... just out of interest I checked the set-up on my micro and that is rock solid (Nosram Dominator Power speedo) so I am fairly sure it's not the transmitter pot.

The bit I really don't get is how to set the brake to 80% as per the LRP user guide recommendation. It alludes to this being done on the radio itself so I assume it means set the end point to 80%, but my Futaba 3GR doesn't have throttle end point adjustments, but it does have this ATL-BK thingy. The (fairly useless) manual could be interpreted as this feature only working on the second servo for a nitro car but I am starting to think I am just thick!:mad::(:confused:

ATL - (actuator travel limit) - BraKe is what your after (in this case the throttle actuator is the speedo)