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Hello guys!
I wonder if it is possible to set more brake on the esc? I can find "initial brake" and "automatic brake" in the manual but would like to increase the brake-power. I dont want the wheels to lock but not far from it. The esc is a LRP Sphere comp 007 with a 6,5t lrp brushless motor. The transmitter is a Hitec lynx 3D. Really epreciate any help! /Will |
#2
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Is the LRP motor bonded or sintered? A sintered motor will give improved braking.
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Deleted so as to not mislead any further
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Last edited by Dunc; 30-12-2007 at 08:19 PM. Reason: Didn't read the manual correctly! |
#4
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The initial brake only adjusts how strong the brakes are initially, the overall braking strength is the same on all settings
![]() All it is really is like changing the brake 'curve' and 'punch' on a KO transmitter. A sintered motor will give stronger brakes overall, I'm not 100% sure but I think the lower turn motors have (slightly) stronger brakes too. |
#5
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Thanks Rich, I stand corrected. I didn't realise the brakes were also based on a profile like the throttle.
In my defence I was reading the supplementary manual, whose explanation is not as expansive as the original user guide where it clearly states: "...allows you to set a certain level of 'hand-brake effect', i.e. you can vary the minimum brake effect when you apply the brake." Next time I'll read the manual in full ![]()
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#6
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Haha, I don't think it's worded too well from what I remember
![]() I run mine on 1-3-2-2 in the BJ4 with a sintered 5.5 and it's got plenty of brakes for me, unlike the QC2 which never had enough braking strength for the fairly heavy BJ4. |
#7
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isnt the 1 in the 1-3-2-2 the auto battery setup and it cuts off when the battery pack drops to a certain level? (for Lipos)
Could be me, I think I just remember reading it recently... ![]() |
#8
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It's whichever one is NIMH mode ![]() |
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Thanks for all the help! (Love the fast responses on this board!=)) |
#10
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I had a similar proble with my Nosram / LRP combination.
In my case it was that the settings had drifted from the original, once I reset my transmitter it had plenty of brakes to lock the wheels on a 2wd! No I make a point of checking that I get full brake and full throttle before each run, it's not drifted since but it doesn't hurt to check ..... just be careful not to free rev a brushless motor when checking you get full travel. Worth a try before changing the motor. |
#11
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I am having this problem too. I can have either no brakes or as soon as I even think about touching the stick back I get lock up and instant 180 spins. There is nothing in between at all.
I run an LRP Eraser 10.5T brushless, Futaba 3GR transmitter and Sphere Comp 2007, settings are 1-1-2-3. The yellow setup sheet with the speedo says to set the unit up with the radio at 100% but then recommends running it at 80% on bonded motors (which mine is). The tranny has EPA on the steering but the throttle only has something called ATL-BK and if I adjust this to anything less than 100% I get absolutely no brakes at all and hitting things is getting expensive. It also means I am not fully confident with the car which means slow times. Anybody else running this transmitter / speedo that can offer some advice. |
#12
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That just sounds like either a speedo setup error or possibly a pot giving up on the tranny?
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#13
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This does seem to be a problem with the Speedos ....... had it again yesterday and now have spoken to several other people who have also experienced the same!!!!!
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#14
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Spoolio,
Is the Eraser rebuildable? Like can you clean the bearings, change the rotor, etc?
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http://www.modrc.com |
#15
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I hope its not the tranny, its only a few weeks old!
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#16
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I think so, an advert in one of the mags said it was rebuildable and I'm sure you can change the bearings - I got it 'cos its cheap and its plenty fast enough for me. Running a 23T pinion it was outdragging plenty of cars in my heat down the straight, but it all went t*ts up at the corner as soon as I thought about braking - even in a straight line I was spinning out on minimal stick movement.
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#17
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#18
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Spoolio .... if the breaks feel very violent turn down the inital brake setting ... if the car doesn't coast in neutral then turn down the drag brake setting.
What I was refering to is not getting full brakes after a few runs as the speedo 'forgets' the correct end point. Happened a few times on both my LRP and Nosram brushless speedos ..... just out of interest I checked the set-up on my micro and that is rock solid (Nosram Dominator Power speedo) so I am fairly sure it's not the transmitter pot. |
#19
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The bit I really don't get is how to set the brake to 80% as per the LRP user guide recommendation. It alludes to this being done on the radio itself so I assume it means set the end point to 80%, but my Futaba 3GR doesn't have throttle end point adjustments, but it does have this ATL-BK thingy. The (fairly useless) manual could be interpreted as this feature only working on the second servo for a nitro car but I am starting to think I am just thick!
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#20
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ATL - (actuator travel limit) - BraKe is what your after (in this case the throttle actuator is the speedo)
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