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And heres the original 4wd conversion http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=21641
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Awesome build - I would be interested in a conversion if you were to make one.
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I'm quite familiar with the mip conversions, if this all works out the parts needed to convert one will be about what a couple of Mipit pulleys run nowadays. Everything MIP 4-10 is so expensive.
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Yep, that's if you can find a full kit, probably quite hard to source now
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Nothings hard to source - if you pay enough. Rather have this conversion that I can race.
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Nice, wish id kept my cf mip rc10 4wd. What id be interested in would be an RC10b5m conversion.
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This looks Trick....how much do you anticipate such a conversion would cost?
How does it run? I haven't personally driven an MIP 4x4 but I hear it was all that. |
I like the creativity of your solution and the very clean execution.
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Thanks for all the replies. I was surprised in how well it ran (there is a short video of it on the street). Using just a standard 27 turn brushed stock motor it doesn't feel bad at all! Peppy and corners well especially considering how little time I put into suspension tuning.
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Nice job!:thumbsup:
I do think you need to address the area where the belt slightly touches the battery holder, in my opinion is too close and it seems it will slowly wear both the battery strap and the belt itself with normal use. You could make a custom servo mount in aluminum with a simple ball bearing that it would create the gap needed, just took one of your pics and made a simple drawing on how it could be done. Just my two cents;) |
It looks closer than it is. That is the tight side of the belt, so if anything it tensions except under deceleration. I know it looks close in the pics but it's a lot higher than the MIP setup running off the idler
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Brilliant, I'll buy one of your conversions!
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Quote:
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I need this.
Do you intend to move away from the Kyosho stuff? Use something else? |
Kyosho knuckles and carriers are easily swapped for YZ10/870c pieces. Not sure about drive shafts but that shouldn't be too hard. The reason for kyosho is that I based the ideas on the A-Main Bullet FWD that I also am still in the process of finishing. I won't adapt something newer, that doesn't fit with my era correctness that I require on my builds.
As far as the tensioner, it would be best to tension the slack side of the belt, which is the top. That doesn't help clearance but when I get a better pic you will see it's not rubbing nor is it as close as it looks. Being the tension side it gets further away under accel as well. Thanks for all the comments, this will be a kit soon- it's a matter of getting the pieces made in quantities of more than one at a time now. |
The problem with era correctness is parts - unless you reproduce them.
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That's the other reason for optima- people like pargu are slowly reproducing just about everything! The rc10 worlds is right around the corner too.
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Now this is what a 4WD should look like :thumbsup: I love it!
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I have decided it is time to let this one go. I just got it back from anno, swapped out for some bright purple. It's on eBay starting at $.99
http://www.ebay.com/itm/151361413503 http://i1115.photobucket.com/albums/...psqru7bwad.jpg http://i1115.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9sxhoenb.jpg |
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