Project: my version of an era correct 4wd RC10 conversion

[gomachv]

I set out to build a 4wd RC10 using era correct parts and yet keep the parts easy to find. You can perform this conversion with only a handful of special parts- the front noseplate, bumper, towers, pullies, and belt. The rest is kyosho optima steering and front axles (870c would also fit), and a spare stealth trans. I know there are more efficient ways, better transmissions now, etc but it was important to me to keep this as era correct as possible. Nothing modern.

This is the prototype and mainly just shows how I got to the end. It currently is a runner, although I will be selling it soon to finance the making of the specialty parts needed to make a conversion available.





































I played around with the front tower today, as I wasn't a fan of the look it had going. This mimics the A&L style tower or worlds tower a little closer. Opinions?









And a very short video. This is with an ancient 27 turn stock motor and 6 cell pack

http://youtu.be/Aypz4LFsswM

[spennyy2k]

And heres the original 4wd conversion http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=21641

[jimmy]

Awesome build - I would be interested in a conversion if you were to make one.

[gomachv]

I'm quite familiar with the mip conversions, if this all works out the parts needed to convert one will be about what a couple of Mipit pulleys run nowadays. Everything MIP 4-10 is so expensive.

[spennyy2k]

Yep, that's if you can find a full kit, probably quite hard to source now

[jimmy]

Nothings hard to source - if you pay enough. Rather have this conversion that I can race.

[Welshy40]

Nice, wish id kept my cf mip rc10 4wd. What id be interested in would be an RC10b5m conversion.

[Naushad]

This looks Trick....how much do you anticipate such a conversion would cost?

How does it run? I haven't personally driven an MIP 4x4 but I hear it was all that.

[mr. ed]

I like the creativity of your solution and the very clean execution.

[gomachv]

Thanks for all the replies. I was surprised in how well it ran (there is a short video of it on the street). Using just a standard 27 turn brushed stock motor it doesn't feel bad at all! Peppy and corners well especially considering how little time I put into suspension tuning.

[optiman]

Nice job!
I do think you need to address the area where the belt slightly touches the battery holder, in my opinion is too close and it seems it will slowly wear both the battery strap and the belt itself with normal use.

You could make a custom servo mount in aluminum with a simple ball bearing that it would create the gap needed, just took one of your pics and made a simple drawing on how it could be done.
Just my two cents

[gomachv]

It looks closer than it is. That is the tight side of the belt, so if anything it tensions except under deceleration. I know it looks close in the pics but it's a lot higher than the MIP setup running off the idler

[DanB4]

Brilliant, I'll buy one of your conversions!

[Danny Harrison]

Originally Posted by optiman

Nice job!
I do think you need to address the area where the belt slightly touches the battery holder, in my opinion is too close and it seems it will slowly wear both the battery strap and the belt itself with normal use.

You could make a custom servo mount in aluminum with a simple ball bearing that it would create the gap needed, just took one of your pics and made a simple drawing on how it could be done.
Just my two cents

Adjustable belt tensioner in front of the battery holder might work well. Raising the belt a little around that point and allowing to keep it tight as it stretches?

[jimmy]

I need this.
Do you intend to move away from the Kyosho stuff? Use something else?

[gomachv]

Kyosho knuckles and carriers are easily swapped for YZ10/870c pieces. Not sure about drive shafts but that shouldn't be too hard. The reason for kyosho is that I based the ideas on the A-Main Bullet FWD that I also am still in the process of finishing. I won't adapt something newer, that doesn't fit with my era correctness that I require on my builds.

As far as the tensioner, it would be best to tension the slack side of the belt, which is the top. That doesn't help clearance but when I get a better pic you will see it's not rubbing nor is it as close as it looks. Being the tension side it gets further away under accel as well.

Thanks for all the comments, this will be a kit soon- it's a matter of getting the pieces made in quantities of more than one at a time now.

[jimmy]

The problem with era correctness is parts - unless you reproduce them.

[gomachv]

That's the other reason for optima- people like pargu are slowly reproducing just about everything! The rc10 worlds is right around the corner too.

[Origineelreclamebord]

Now this is what a 4WD should look like I love it!

[gomachv]

I have decided it is time to let this one go. I just got it back from anno, swapped out for some bright purple. It's on eBay starting at $.99

http://www.ebay.com/itm/151361413503