|
||
|
 |
|
||||||||||||||||||
|
#1
06-03-2008
|
|||
|
|||
X-5 Gearing question
Hi there, new X-5 owner here. I need a reccomendation for properly geraing my X-5. I belive the car is equipped with a 102t spur(it's white) and I will be using a Novak 6.5t brushless setup. The car will be ran outdoors on a well packed, semi-loose grip track. What size pinion would you reccomend? I am thinking 16t-18t but wanted to check with the experts first. I have a 19t laying around here, would that work or do you think that is too high? Thanks for any help you can offer.
|
|
#2
06-03-2008
|
||||
|
||||
|
On a 6.5R (sintered) I would guess 102/17 would be good if you are running standard pulleys. The bigger spurs have been introduced so we can gear the car better, i.e. run bigger pinions to get the right ratio.
|
|
#3
07-03-2008
|
|||
|
|||
|
Ok, cool sounds good I juts picked up a 17t at the hobby shop today.
I got the car all together today for it's first test run and ran into some problems. -When I go to accelerate upon take off it seems that the car hesitates and slips a bit, while making a horrible "grinding" sound. I obviously thought that the slipper was too loose so I tightened it up, but this was to no avail. When the car is off the ground, with no resistance from the road, there is no noise and the car functions normally and seems like it's going to rip  .-I removed the slipper assembly for the car to inspect it and found what I think could be the problem. First, it seems the main drive gear has melted a bit and the teeth have worn down, so I know it's not making a solid connection with the belt. The belt itself is in great shape though. What would cause the main drive gear to melt down? Perhaps the belt tension was too loose? -Also, it seems the spur gear itself has some play from side to side, even when the slipper is tightened all the way. Is this normal? The slipper seems to be working otherwise and it tightens down nicely. I disassembled the slipper and it seems there was only one of the small spacers used when it was built. Could only having one spacer affect the tolerance that much that it would have that much play? Other then missing one spacer the slipper is assembled correctly. I am going to order a new gear set tomorrow as I know this one is toast. Would having a worn down drive gear cause this horrible grinding noise I am experiencing? Thanks a lot for any help and tips you can offer.
|
|
#4
07-03-2008
|
||||
|
||||
|
See pg 27 of the Instruction Manual on 4wdrc.com tech page. Are you referring to the white slipper pucks shown in D6, or the tiny spacers in D8?
If the white pucks (D6), you absolutely need them all. If either your pucks are worn or your slipper plates scored, replace both. Make sure your Nylock nut is good and not backing off, and make sure the threads on your slipper shaft are good. If the tiny spacers (D8), use the correct size and number to set end float correctly, and the car functions normally with any number of them. Having just one is not abnormal. The X - 5 was designed in 2004 and we did all our testing with 11X2s and 3300s. Now with 5.5 and 4600s we're delivering far more torque. The X - 5 will handle it perfectly and go like a rocket when both belt tension and slipper are adjusted correctly. They must be done in tandem. You've got to put it on the track for a lap, then adjust one or the other, then another lap, more adjusting, keep at it until you've got it just right. Once it's good, it will stay that way for a long time. Ballistic too...
|
|
#5
07-03-2008
|
|||
|
|||
|
Young Chazz-
Thanks for the reply. All of the slipper pucks are there and appear to be in good shape. The slipper plates are clean and the nylon nut is functioning as it should. The spacer I'm missing is the .013" shown in figure D8. So in your experience running without this spacer shouldn't affect things adversely? Is it normal for the spur gear itself to have some play side to side, even when the slipper is completely assembled and tightened? Mines seems to have at least 1-2mm of play. Looks like i need to replace this main drive gear and get to adjusting and hope for the best. 
|
|
#6
07-03-2008
|
|||
|
|||
|
If it was a horrible grinding noise it could be the rear diff loose!! They make a horible noise when loose. Reading your post again I'm sure it is your diff, a slipper does not really make a noise when it slips.
As to the spur they wobble a little but it is no problem. YOu can shim it a touch but it doesn't make too much difference.
|
|
#7
07-03-2008
|
|||
|
|||
|
Big e- Thanks for the reply. Now that you mention it, that does make sense
. I had the rear diff accessible tonight and I didn't even think of adjusting it. From just looking at the diff it seems adjustment will not be too difficult, but if you have any tips you could share that would be great. I can't wait to get this car running as I have a feeling I'm going to love it. I used to own a xx-4 some 6 years ago and am just now getting back into the hobby. Am glad I found X-factory before I jumped into another losi. Also, I have a brand new 104(black) tooth spur gear that I was thinking about installing when I put the new drive gear on. Would you still recommend the 17t pinion or would you run a larger pinion, say 18-19t with the 104t spur. Mind you this is with a NOVAK 6.5t GTB velociti system. Thanks again.
|
|
#8
07-03-2008
|
|||
|
|||
|
Diffs easy to adjust. Just find the screw head and stick a driver in ther to hold it and turn the opposite wheel to tighten or loosen it. The screw head should be on the left when looking from the rear though otherwise you will need to swap it round to stop it coming undone. Then just turn the right wheel clockwise to tighten and anti to loosen it.
For how tight that's a bit hard to explain on here, just needs to spin for say a half to one second and it should be good, or till it stops making the noise For the gearing best Dan or Chris answer that as I'm not familiar with the Novak stuff....I like to go fast 
|
|
#9
07-03-2008
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
Lovin the bit of in house banter
|
|
#10
14-03-2008
|
|||
|
|||
|
Quote:
I'm running the balck 104 spur and an 18t pinion with standard X factory gearing. Seems to be working well from the first run. Thanks again
|
|
#11
14-03-2008
|
||||
|
||||
|
great choice of new car mate
youll love it
__________________
Mattys the driver,my names carl
|
|
#12
14-03-2008
|
||||
|
||||
|
Glad you like it.
Don't worry about colour of spurs, sometimes they're white and sometimes they're blacks, its the same material and colour is not significant to size. So what I do is write on them in marker pen so can be seen through the meshing hole in the chassis.... black ones a bit harder to see.
|
|
#13
15-03-2008
|
|||
|
|||
|
Thanks! I ran the car yesterday at my friends track and had a blast
The car is awesome, it drives so nice and flies great. This was the first time a lot of my buddies had seen brushless 4WD in action and they were . Quick question if you don't mind. It's my understanding that some belt skip is normal, and sometimes preferred, under hard acceleration; say coming out of sharp a turn, or during hard braking. I'm finding the car is super fast and all seems great, but i get a bit of belt slip sometimes and wanted to make sure if this was normal or not before I go changing the tension. The car is very fast and the slipping isn't constant; just when accelerating hard at the start, coming out of a turn , or hard braking. Thanks again
|
|
#14
15-03-2008
|
||||
|
||||
|
Yes, the belt should skip a little under acceleration. Mine is set set from the rostrum I cannot hear it or feel it, people have said "I can hear you belt slipping about 2 teeth as you put the power on where I marshal" but that is perfect.
If it is slipping too much, its that familiar racket, not a "click..... click" then silence. i.e. if its slipping to much the clicks can't be counted. Under braking, yes it should slip and it can sound excessive. The nature of the drivetrain means the belt slackens around the main pulley which makes it slip. You can help this by making a roller out of a bearing which runs on the belt at the pulley - doesn;t press, just holds the teeth in. It'll still skip but about 50% less. All I do is turn my brakes on my tranny down to about 60-75%, you'll find you don't need any more than this while racing at full tilt and the belt will be miles better. Just be careful of your pitmans ankles... 
|
|
#15
15-03-2008
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
The best solution is to change out the drive pullet for the front pulley on the rear belt on the xx4 (needs slight shimming). This is perfectly round and makes setting a better, more accurate belt tension. http://www.one-ten-rcforums.com/4wdr...ic.php?id=1540
__________________
 Nortech is ACE!
|
|
#17
16-03-2008
|
||||
|
||||
|
With the standard Kit pulleys, a bit of skipping as you're describing is desireable. If you've got the results you're describing, I would put a small dot on the outside of the belt tunnel with a Sharpie to mark the adjuster screw position and leave it alone. Sounds like a dream, especially if it's fast.
To make sure there is no confusion, spur gear sizes are as follows: 100 = black (obsolete) 102 = white 104 = black 106 = white 108 = black 110 = white
|
 |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|
X-Factory
Linear Mode
