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#1
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Hi,
I've been running a [2nd hand] B44 weekly for approx 5months and think it might be time for the diff balls/washers to be replaced soon. I have recently heard that sometimes B44 diffs may also require some ?extra shimming with wear, over time. I'm looking for any advise about this if possible. Thanks |
#2
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Hi,
Your correct about the shimming. But it is extra shims between the bearings and the diff outdrives. With everything assembled, IE as it is now. See if you can move the diff left to right in the gearbox. (So changing the mesh between the two bevelled gears.) You don't want any movement here. So if there is movement,when you are rebuild add an extra shim between the bearing and the outdrive, to that you push the two gears together. MiCk B. :-)
__________________
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#3
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@MiCk B
Thankyou ![]() |
#4
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#5
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how much are your diff balls ? cheers ![]() |
#6
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@budfish. Yep - I'm planning on using the buds balls - Thanks
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#7
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__________________
Mugen mbx6r eu Novarossi btt/plus 4 Losi mini 8ight Oh & a v.understanding partner x Trader feedback... http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=71837 |
#8
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@jaffacake
O.K thanks m8 , think I understand so try to minimise left - right movement but not to the point of jamming the diff gear to the input gear. |
#9
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While we're on the subject of B44 diff rebuilding - is it possible for the thrust race spring to lose tension over time? Just that with the B44 I'm preparing for the coming season I seem to be having trouble setting the diff so that it doesn't slip but isn't too tight when you turn the wheels.
I've fitted new plates and balls (thrust and main) but there seems to be little adjustment from slipping to too tight. |
#10
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That spring is always under pressure in the diff. So it will not last for ever. MiCk B. :-)
__________________
http://www.dublinmodelracing.com/ (Off-road racing in Dublin) http://www.p-dubracing.co.uk (Stocking: 8Racing / AVID / GHEA / Xpert Racing / Factory R/C / Alton Design Innovations) http://www.msdmodels.ie/ (Trackside and on-line RC supplies.) |
#11
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Buds |
#12
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Diff screw is in good condition, and I always coat the thread of the screw where it goes into the nut with threadlock and let it dry before re-assembly so I get a good tight fit.
Oooh matron. ![]() |
#13
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Is the part number as3911 for the diff shims and are they for 1 diff or both ???
cheers ![]()
__________________
AKA Dexter ![]() Ex Club Chairman Visit our Face Book Page for address and to book in https://www.facebook.com/groups/289589121226171/ http://www.neamotorsport.co.uk/ |
#14
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Kept meaning to mention to you that your diff/diffs were clicking last night , was you aware of this ? Andy |
#15
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![]() ![]() cheers ![]()
__________________
AKA Dexter ![]() Ex Club Chairman Visit our Face Book Page for address and to book in https://www.facebook.com/groups/289589121226171/ http://www.neamotorsport.co.uk/ |
#16
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i would maybe put a few shims in if you have them to try and save what you have left , although on the very slippy floor you run on @ tyne met they shouldnt be as much load on the diffs as they was last night on the carpet.
The mesh should be similar to your spur/pinion mesh when you rebuild , im sure he told you that maybe. Sounds like you have some work to do over chrimbo, have you ordered new gears ? might be an idea to replace your plates,thrust and balls maybe while you have it all apart if you wasnt doing that ! |
#17
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My indoor (polished wood) car is shimmed as per the manual, with 4 shims on the crownwheel side and 3 on the other. My outside car is shimmed 5/2, just to push the crownwheel over slightly and tighten the mesh to cope with the extra oomph from running modified.
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