Share your best B4.1 tips!

[andjoh]

So, Share your best B4.1 tips with us

[ian h]

Originally Posted by andjoh

So, Share your best B4.1 tips with us

Convert it to something mid motored.

[nicVEGAchildJR]

BUY A VEGA!!!!!

[Dudders]

Originally Posted by ian h

Convert it to something mid motored.

Depends on surface to be honest. My B4.1 is dialed on grass.

I'd love to see a TOP driver run two cars back to back, one rear and the other mid motor and compare the times

[GRIFF55]

Get yourself some weights in there. AE ballast weight for the rear and rudebits under lipo and under servo weight
Rich Lowe put his in the 'A' at rhr, so see if he has his setup somewhere too look at too.

[Chrislong]

Put Factory team Carbon rear wishbones on it, the kit ones are wibbly-wobbly.

Glue the servo saver, or put on a fixed alloy steering set. I opted for the latter after breaking glued servo savers.

[Wraggy]

Originally Posted by nicVEGAchildJR

BUY A VEGA!!!!!

[Timee80]

I don't think that richard lowe runs with much weight in the car griff. I'm sure he's a beleiver in running light chassis. I maybe wrong tho

[Richard Lowe]

I'll get my RHR setup posted in the setups section soon, I've actually started running a fair bit of weight in the car recently as an experiment - still not sure just yet

Usually I run the Trishbits front bulkhead (~40g) + brace (~7g) and antisquat/toe block (~28g) everywhere. At RHR I also had a Rudebits 72g under servo weight + 66g lipo weight.

As Chris has mentioned the carbon rear arms are a must on the B4.1, the new plastic is a bit too floppy there IMO. I've tried both back to back, the carbon arms just make everything better in general - more grip, more consistent and much better through bumps

[Steven Forster]

Originally Posted by Chrislong

Put Factory team Carbon rear wishbones on it, the kit ones are wibbly-wobbly.

Glue the servo saver, or put on a fixed alloy steering set. I opted for the latter after breaking glued servo savers.

What is the reason for gluing the servo saver.........

cheers

[/tobys]

stops it unloading when cornering (which gives a vague steering feel).

[Steven Forster]

Originally Posted by /tobys

stops it unloading when cornering (which gives a vague steering feel).

will that not stop the servo saver from working

cheers

[/tobys]

The parts that are v-grooved (and held together under pressure by the spring and nut) are glued together so they become a solid piece.

[MattADH]

Originally Posted by dexter24

will that not stop the servo saver from working

cheers

Yes it does stop the servo saver from working. TBH, I have never felt the need to do this but I do crank it up so its as tight as possible...

[flipside]

Originally Posted by Richard Lowe

the carbon arms just make everything better in general - more grip, more consistent and much better through bumps

Hi richard!

I agree that they are floppy, but I found they give a massive amount of rear end grip. I swapped them for stiffer ones to get back some more steering into the car (astro track)

Was even thinking of using the floppy arms on dirt tracks.

Did you ever try the difference between inboard and outboard toe-in?

[uijui]

In Finland IFMAR warmup, all the A-final cars were back motored. Even Losis, no cougars there. Cavalieri was fast as hell.

[uijui]

I think that fastest mid-motored was Jose (JQ), but he is just sick fast

[Lonestar]

Originally Posted by Richard Lowe

I'll get my RHR setup posted in the setups section soon, I've actually started running a fair bit of weight in the car recently as an experiment - still not sure just yet

Usually I run the Trishbits front bulkhead (~40g) + brace (~7g) and antisquat/toe block (~28g) everywhere. At RHR I also had a Rudebits 72g under servo weight + 66g lipo weight.

As Chris has mentioned the carbon rear arms are a must on the B4.1, the new plastic is a bit too floppy there IMO. I've tried both back to back, the carbon arms just make everything better in general - more grip, more consistent and much better through bumps

Richard

you've just ruined my hopes of getting someone to finally get a "light" setup to work...

Paul

[Bastos]

From my own experiences...a 2WD need to be a little bit heavy to be a great car, on every tracks.
The "light" weight setups from the Team Associated were, I think, a bad experience for Associated ( not so bad but...there is something wrong ).
1600 gr is a minimum for me.( or for common driver like me )

[flipside]

I agree, there is no disadvantage at all to a heavier car. I does everything better: more grip, more stability, better in bumps, better in the air,...

1620-1650 is ideal I think