M3 threaded ballstuds that can be fitted with an allen driver

[RogerM]

Does anybody know of any (decent quality) ballstuds that can be installed removed with an allen driver and have an M3 thread?

My new car seems to have the ballstuds burried so you can't get a driver to them without taking most of that end apart! I need to find something much easier to use but I have tried a 4-40 screw in an unused hole and it's too loose a fit to be relied upon so can't go down that route!

Any suggestions (as to a suitable component before Doom comes back with something uncomplimentry .. ) greatfully recieved.

[bert digler]

Originally Posted by RogerM

Does anybody know of any (decent quality) ballstuds that can be installed removed with an allen driver and have an M3 thread?

My new car seems to have the ballstuds burried so you can't get a driver to them without taking most of that end apart! I need to find something much easier to use but I have tried a 4-40 screw in an unused hole and it's too loose a fit to be relied upon so can't go down that route!

Any suggestions (as to a suitable component before Doom comes back with something uncomplimentry .. ) greatfully recieved.

i think losi are hex fit dont know about size imperial probably

[Gaz_Stanton]

The Yokomo ballstuds have an M3 thread with a hole in the ball for a 2mm allen driver.

[RogerM]

Thanks for the response. The Losi ball studs are 4-40 thread usually.

Been looking around the net and the Hot Bodies ball studs might fit the bill .... but I'd need to change the ball cups too as they are 4.3 dia rather than 4.8 (3/16ths if your in old money).

[PaulRotheram]

D4 has m3 thread with 2mm head also.. very good quality ballstuds, and are quite cheap from what ive seen.

[sosidge]

I believe the new Tamiya steel balls have a socket in the head. TOP also do some.

[ben]

Originally Posted by RogerM

but I have tried a 4-40 screw in an unused hole and it's too loose a fit to be relied upon so can't go down that route!

Helicoil kit. Ive got one and its really good. Then you can use the 4-40 screws. Just an idea

lil ben

[RogerM]

Not a bad suggestion Ben ..... but I'd rather keep all my fasteners metric across both cars ...... had enough of trying to find an odd imperial screw / nut during a mid week rebuild!

Nope both cars are fully metric adn that is the way I'd like them to stay!

[barnyard]

i agree with paul on those from the D4, both are hpi parts you also need to check on the size of ball required or you may have to change the cups

75115 - ballstud 4.3x10mm/2mm socket
75116 - ballstud 4.3x13mm/2mm socket

[jim76]

i used the HPI ones on the back of my RB5 as they are impossible to get to. I also replaced the ball cups and the HPI ones are pretty strong.

[RogerM]

A bit more digging and the following is my solution, all Yokomo parts.

ZC206MH are 6mm in length the same as the Kyosho short

ZC206LH are 8mm in length the same as the Kyosho long

Both snap nicely into the Kyosho ball cups.

Unfortunately I believe the ball height is slightly different so you will either have to compensate with the shims or swap the outer balls too.

1 pack of each (6 ball studs in a pack) are enough to do both a ZX5 and RB5 assuming your going to corect the height with the shims.

4 x MH at the inboard positions on the ZX5
2 x MH for the outer front link positions on the ZX5
2 x LH for the outer rear link positions on the ZX5

The remaining 4 x LH studs on both ends of the rear link on the RB5.

Thanks to all those that have made suggestions, much appreciated.

[IndyYokomo]

3racing makes some Titanium ones for the Tamiya 501X that I am told will work. Part number is 501X-05 on the 3racing website. I have not tried them yet. 3racing is also showing part number ZX5-24 coming soon. The pic shows internal hex driver.