How loose is loose

[NitroArgi]

Hello all,

Just got a ZX5 FS2 and a RB5 SP2 for the upcoming racing season and I would like to ask you guys how loose the diffs should be...

I was an AE racer for some time now and boy the Kyosho diffs are day and night as far as setup goes. I did some testing with the K cars and I figured they both like loose diffs

But how loose is loose? I went in ZX5 with front 45 min loose from fully in and in the rear one full turn out from fully tight, but is this right???

I also have a LOT of white diff silicone turning black at the end of the day...any ideas?

Other than that both cars are just amazing and a lot easier to drive than the AE just have to figure them out..

Regards
Argi

[RogerM]

The simple answer is run the rears (both cars) as loose as you can without them slipping then set the front a fraction tighter.

I NEVER tighten the diffs all the way down, always start loose and make small adjustments until I achieve the "no slip" characteristic. If you tighten them down you run the risk of brusing the plates and that will obviously limit long term smoothness.
Both cars like to run a fairly loose slipper too, so much so that setting the diff and slipper is a balancing act and after doing one you should check the other.
I normally set the diff with the slipper tight, then go back to the slipper and set that as I want finally going back to see if I can loosen the diffs a fraction without them slipping. So long as th eslipper goes frist it's all good
Using the Nuclear RC greases and setting with the above method gives me diffs that only need rebuilding a couple of times a year!

As for the grease getting dirty I'd clean it all and rebuild with fresh grease and see what if it happens again, most likely it's just all the new parts settling into a long and happy life together

Oh whilst I think about it are you greasing the gears? The cars like just a tiny bit on the teeth, as a rule of thumb I put about the same amount as you would on a diff ball on each pinion / idler gear and 2 or 3 spots on each crown / diff gear then turn the transmission over by hand (i.e. slowly) until it is evenly distributed across all teeth.

Doing that means not enough grease to attract the dirt but gears that will last a long long time (the ones in my cars are the originals from 3 years ago!!!)
Welcome to Kyosho, the world of hastle free RC

[NitroArgi]

Hello RogerM

Thanks for the tips...

I do use Tamiya anti wear grease in the gears and it works just fine. I was told by the Team here in Greece that Kyosho has a very nice product for the gears and I may try it as Tamiya bits are rare here.

In my second test diff operation was a lot better with loose both front and rear in my FS2...I think I was front 45 min out from tighten and rear a full turn. After practice front felt just fine but rear was again horrible without smooth operation...I quess I need to loose it a bit more

I am really happy with both cars, they are a LOT easier to drive than both AE cars and even easier in maintenance...

Regards
Argi

[njc11]

Are you using the kit diff balls??? If so invest in some good quality 3/32 balls and 1/16th balls for the thrust assembly.

The kit ones dont last long at all

[NitroArgi]

Hey Nick...

Yeah I got that from training...I just wanted to see how long they last in order to have an idea for stock parts. I used ceramic in my old cars with great success and I planning to do the same. Are Kyosho ceramic balls any good???

[RogerM]

I've had the same set of Kyosho ceramics in my lazer for aobut 2 years now and still perfect.

I'd not mix greases in the box, I use silicone diff grease on the teeth. If the anti-wear grease somehow makes it's way on to the plates no amount of tightening in the world will stop the diff slipping.