The ZX5 RTR Comparison

[Metla]

As I presume most here already know the RTR ZX5 has just come on the market, At a stupidly low $195 USD.

http://rc-mushroom.com/product_info....ducts_id=13973

Anyhow, I'm itching to buy one to replace my Dark Impact which so far has proved to be a miserable racer, Its pretty obvious that the RTR version must have been scaled back in quality so has anyone seen one to compare against the kit version?

Any idea if Kyosho have shimmed up the gearbox to fix the excessive wear that plagues the kit version.

Does anyone think the RTR would be a competitive car in the stock (silver can) class?

I already run a XXX-4 Brushless in mod so if I get the ZX5 it will only ever run a mild motor.

[Mr X]

from past experiences when kyosho makes an rtr version of a car its really not the same. i think it would be fine for silver can class though since the speeds are not too fast. as for shimming the diff i personally would check it no matter what company made the car.

[KyoshoK]

theres nothing wrong with the gears. those who say there is a problem dont know how to shim or set the slipper properly. unfortunatly you hear people who dont know how to build/setup a car constantly complain, and there the only people who u hear from.

i been running the same gears weekly for over 12months, and shows maybe 1% wear.

from what looks to be different, mainly is that you dont get aluminium shocks.

the rest is pretty much the same.

[frogger]

I have 2 kit versions and I can't imagine that the RTR will be that much different. It doesn't make commercial sense for them to manufacture different parts specifically for the RTR as that will increase, not decrease costs. Apart from alloy shocks it seem spretty good and comparable to the kit version. Obviously the electronics are going to be pretty basic.

From my experience RTR versions come with some factory build issues. It will probbaly be fine with the standard motor but if you plan on upgrading that then I would open the diffs up and check the gear mesh.

I ran a Mamba Max 7700 in my main car and never had any gear wear problems. The gears are like new with no visible wear.

Like any other car you will have to do some basic upgrades, most notably the alloy suspension holder and shock towers and get a bunch of knuckles, C-hubs and king pins as spares.

For that price you can't really go wrong.

[Metla]

Excellent, I like what I'm hearing.

[andreasH]

I read in an magazine the following differences:

- motormount not machined but moulded alloy
- shocks with plastic not alloy
- differential shafts in plastic
- no oneway option included

[dyops]

$195... ugh, now I feel stupid for paying $250 + $40 shipping in Ebay. Well, that's the risk I took since there was no official price listed anywhere when I won the car. At least I made it up with the used DI I won.

As I said in another thread, I have no means to compare my RTR with the kit version. My first impression is that the parts looked on the cheap side (plastic shocks, weak metal for CVDs (the front left one was a little bent and I did not crash into anything nor jump the car). The shocks also felt soft in my opinion. Of course, the controller itself looked like a toy and no extras at all in the box except for an cross wrench and a couple of allen keys. The car also seemed slow with the G20 motor.

You get what you pay for BUT I'm still having fun with it! It's a great car to start out with especially for a beginner like me. I already started purchasing parts for it little by little. I got myself some road tires and 2nd set of wheels since I will be running this on the streets for now because the track is far from my house. I have the aluminum suspension holder. I was cheap and got the composite shock towers (not aluminum or carbon fiber). Lastly, I have the "training wheels" for RC cars... front and rear bumpers!! I have yet to get the shock mounts, carbide diff balls and titanium screw set. I think I now have to get myself the one-way diff front set.

Sorry to be ignorant, but when you guys say "one way" what does it mean exactly? Right now I spin one wheel, the other wheel turns the opposite direction. I guess that would be 2-way, right? When it's one way, does it mean the wheel won't turn the other way if I turn one wheel? I must learn the ways of the 4wd buggy!

Back to the car itself. It gives me time to practice to be race ready next summer. I have 3 9 months to get used to the controls and slowly hop it up for next year.

I would recommend the car for beginners especially young ones. I would have loved to assemble it myself since I love building kits but RTR is fine too. I don't have time to dedicate to put something together.

[JCJC]

"one way" - without all wheels are driven, under braking all wheels are braking, with the one way bearing in the shaft or in the front diff all wheels are obviously driven but when braking only the rear wheels have any effect, the fronts just spin/roll.

If I hold the car and turn the front wheel in a clockwise direction the wheel just spins, it helps when landing off jumps and takes corners different. we always use the one way in the shaft.

"Turn one of the wheels and the other wheel turns the opposite direction" this is just the effect of the diff.

[jim76]

does the rtr have a slipper clutch? maybe another cost saver.

i'm guessing the plastic used for the mouldings may be a cheaper softer plastic instead of the carbon composite plastic on the full kit?

The normal ZX5 shocks are ace, don't bother with Associated/Losi shocks unless they are a bargain compared to the kyosho.

If you add up the cost of all the upgrades you want to put on your car (one way, titanium screw, ceramic balls, alloy tower mounts, alloy shocks, rear UJ's) it will probably come to around £100-150. For that money you can pick up a second hand ZX5 with these mods already on. It may be an option worth looking at as that way you will get most of the hop ups you need and also probably gain a few more sets of wheels and tyres, and obviously a load of spare parts in the form of a spare whole car!!

[alana07]

had a quick glance into the internals of the ZX5 RTR chassis at my LHS, noted the following :
- cast alloy motor mount, top slotted mounting hole, single lower mounting hole.
- slipper clutch
- plastics look more shinier than ZX5's composites.
- full cvds on the RTR car, ZX5 had dogbones in the rear!!!
- plastic shock bodies with blue alu shock caps and ride height adjusters
- "H" style mini pin tires first found on the original Lazer ZXR series.
just my $0.00002.......

[budgio]

Does anyone know the spec of the esc in the RTR ?
Will it handle a 19t spec motor or better?
Seems an amazing price at £129.99 and i,ve recommended it to a mate of mine who is keen to get started.

[RogerM]

The RTR is VERY good value for money and should be a good club racer from the box!

A few upgrades and it will be a MUCH nicer car to drive than XXX4 .... you might well be suprised!!

If your going racing properly you will probably want to consider the metal diff joints and maybe the alloy shock bodies.

[f3cheli]

Hi

I own a Lazer ZX-5 rtr and it sure is a nice car. I dont use the stock ESC but if I remember right the ESC have an 17T motor limit. The stock plastic shocks are really not bad, no leakage at all....
I have upgraded my car with the following parts:
Metal diff shafts
LA-22 steering shaft/bolts
Ball bearings in the steering assy.

Yes, the car have CVDs, but they are not the same as on the ZX-5 kit version. The joints are "open" so debris can enter the joints and lock the drive shaft. The joints on the CVDs are made of plastic, but they seems to hold up.

Andreas
Sweden

[budgio]

Cheers for the replies.

My mate went and bought the red/grey version today and i must say i was very impressed with what you get for the money.I may even have a dabble at the kyosho myself in the near future.