db01 speed noobie questions

[frogjim]

Hi all

I have got my first rc car, since wanting one from when i was about 13(34 now), I have the tamiya durga. I have build it up and after lots of mistakes i think ive got it all sorted..

I brought a novak havoc 1s esc and 13.5t combo off ebay (not knowing at the time wat the 1s bit meant). So after lots of messing about i have in the car and am using a 1s lipo battery(the 1s bit).

My question is what sorta top speed would i expect from this package and also have i brought totally the wrong type pf motor/esc combo for a 4wd?

I have used the 23 pinion that came in the box

Any help would be great?
Thanks
Jim

[fastinfastout]

yes you bought the wrong speed control. You happened to buy one of the only 1 cell lipo speed controls that are available. You need a esc that is capable of 2s lipos.

regarding speed, it depends on your motor, but a 13.5 is not very fast. The durga is not the best car for speed, as the diffs dont hold up very well without upgrades ie. 1 piece outdrives, carbide diff balls, slipper clutch. Would have been better starting out with the db01r but even then you would still need the outdrives.

[jimmy]

Have to confess I've never heard of a 1s ESC and im not sure it's suited to the Durga or what exactly it's meant for.

[Nige]

http://www.teamnovak.com/products/br...pro/index.html

"This ESC is ideal for beginners and local, club-level racers, and will excel in the Oval, World GT and 12-Scale racing segments."

[frogjim]

i have the slipper clutch installed and a few other hop ups..
i did wonder why the motor and esc sounded such a bargin lol...get wat you pay for then...

Maybe the best solution is to sell the 1s lipo battery i had to buy and the motor and esc on ebay and get something else...Had a lot of hassle getting it all to work and now it sounds like ive brought some junk...hey live and learn...

thanks guys...What would be a good esc/motor combo for this car? does the fact a car is 2wd or 4wd make a difference in motor choice?

thanks for your replies!

[Donutt]

Jim

I recommend popping the Havoc and motor back on Ebay - there's nothing wrong with them, but they were designed for 12th scale or class racing touring cars, etc. Someone will buy them back, hopefully, what you paid for them.

Given the amount drag involved in driving an off-road, you need a stronger speedo and a more powerful motor.

DB01 is a little fragile for the big stuff the pro guys put in their cars, but not so bad to get rid. If you throw a 5.5 or 6.5 into the DB01 it will rattle through the diffs/gearboxes pretty quickly.

Firstly, go looking for a good speedo. I run a Castle MMP, but GM, Speed Passion, Tekin, etc are all equal alternatives. It'll depend on your budget, but the more you invest now, means longer life span, less problems and very few compatibility issues or limits. Buy "as new" as you can afford.

Then start with 9.5 or 8.5T motor, or if you are running indoors, consider a 2nd hand 10.5T from a TC driver - you'll get them cheap 2nd hand and they'll give you enough power to get around a track. You might be slower down the straights, but it'll be more controllable and give you time to get used to the speed. I've always said only put a faster motor in, when you stop hitting the corners!

Then when you are ready to go faster, sell the 10.5 and move up the motors slowly and at your own pace.

I still swap between 6.5, 8.5 and 10.5 in my 511, depending on how useless I am that day! Whatever gets me round the track with the most consistent lap times...

[sosidge]

There are lots and lots of suitable ESCs out there for 4wd.

Look for a "sensored" system. For motors, a 7.5 will be amply fast in a 4wd. You will need a different pinion gear, use the smaller one that comes in the kit to start with.

Also make sure it is suitable for 2s Lipo (7.4V), and that the motor is 540 sized (for 1/10th scale). There are a few systems out there with bigger motors for 1/8th scale and trucks, wouldn't want you buying the wrong system again!

You'll then need a 2s Lipo stick pack for cars.

From Novak's range (for example), they do a "normal" Havoc that will suit, and their own range of motors. A lot of people on this board (including me) use the Speed Passion speed controllers and motors (or rebadged versions from Hobbywing and Much-More).

For the battery pack, the Durga was designed for NiMH stick packs, so not ever LiPo will be a tidy fit and might need a little chassis modification. A good place to start is the BRCA list of legal racing LiPos - http://www.brca.org/BRCA/elecboard/n...20v2%20pdf.pdf, although if you know you won't be racing, there are lots of cheaper LiPo packs around that I can't really comment on the quality of. There are also a couple of stick-packs with rounded edges which will fit very neatly in Tamiya cars.

[Mouton]

As LRP recently made an update to the LRP SXX TC the price of the old LRP SXX TC dropped. You can see them now selling for about 225 US dollars on eBay, which is good value for money.

Another option would be a Novak GTB. I know they (Novak 1710and 1711) are not the latest but they have two things I value. First they are water protected, which is more than you can say for most current racing ESCs. Second, you can have reverse. During practice reverse can be useful.

Getting a (new or used) GTB will not cost that much either (new are around 165 US dollars on eBay), but still get you a sensored no-limit ESC that can be used for racing. Keep in mind that many Oople members are experienced racers that need the latest and that as a beginner you really do not need to use the latest revision of the hottest ESC.

I use a GTB with a Nosram X-12 6.5T in my 4WD and a Tamiya Volac BL2 (LRP SXX TC) with a Tamiya Transpeed 8.5T (LPR X-12) in my 2WD.

Regarding batteries, get one that is on the BRCA-list. Intellect are very cheap from Asia and a popular choice. I know the EFRA battery list includes size, so you can make sure they fit in your car. A saddle pack can be a good idea as they fit more cars than stick packs do. That can be good to keep in mind if you get hooked and later on want to move up to a race spec 4WD. If you cannot get one that fits your car, check out the ones with rounded edges that sosidge mentions. Team Orion, Intellect and other quality makers have them.

Why not put in a wanted ad here in the trades section? Buying a used comby will save you some money that you can spend on getting more batteries, which mean more drive time.

[frogjim]

Thanks guys i think i will learn to drive a bit with the stuff i have installed at the mo (1st car so need to get the steering sorted etc and will be easiler at lower speeds) and then i will upgrade, like a few of you have mention i dont need the most flashy new kit, just something with a bit more power... im thinking a 8.5 would be good, and will def be keeping my eyes out on ebay for your reccomendations.

Spent quite a bit of cash getting the car where it is at the mo, mainly due to my bad choice of motor/esc plus im just buying a house so i think it will be a few months till i can upgrade, so that will give me time to set the car up and get used to driving and not crashing into trees!

Thanks a lot guys, u all been very helpful...Shame i didnt ask before i went on ebay!

[frogjim]

would these be any good?
http://www.fusionhobbies.com/Product...P80584&click=2

http://www.elitemodelsonline.co.uk/P...=googleproduct

or
http://www.speedymodels.com/team-los...ombo-787-p.asp

[peetbee]

Originally Posted by Donutt

DB01 is a little fragile for the big stuff the pro guys put in their cars, but not so bad to get rid. If you throw a 5.5 or 6.5 into the DB01 it will rattle through the diffs/gearboxes pretty quickly

I wouldn't worry about this statement, as you have the slipper it'll protect the transmission but if you just add the 501 diff halves in the rear (or the cheaper 3 racing version) then you should have no problems regardless of motor.

[peetbee]

Originally Posted by frogjim

would these be any good?
http://www.fusionhobbies.com/Product...P80584&click=2

http://www.elitemodelsonline.co.uk/P...=googleproduct

Both would be good, but I don't believe that the Havoc will run a more powerful motor than the one it comes with.
Also worth considering is the Xcelorin
http://www.modelsport.co.uk/?CallFun...n&ItemID=30215

[Mouton]

Yes, it would work. However, you do need to be aware of the motor limitation of the ESC as it cannot (like your car) handle the hotter racing motors. The implication is that if you do later decide to get a racing car you also need to replace the ESC. Fine for now, but probably not in the long run if you do get hooked and start racing.

Knowing and accepting that, the combo will work fine in your car. Price is OK, but quite close to what a used Novak GTB or LPR Sphere TC ESC and say an LRP X-12 or Novak motor should cost you. Have you checked the trades section here? Get this:
http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=51388
and a used motor will cost you say £35 more but get you a speed controller that you will not outgrow, albeit without reverse.

Remember also to ge a suitable pinion as you will need to change your gear ratio.

[fastinfastout]

do not buy a 2nd hand speed control!

do yourself a favour and get a hobbywing version2 120amp speed control. You can get one for around $100US, maybe even cheaper now. I have run all the speed controls out there, and this is the only speed control you can have that has all the functions you will ever need, that is updateable through the PC, and is the cheapest. You cannot go wrong with this purchase.

[jimmy]

Originally Posted by peetbee

I wouldn't worry about this statement, as you have the slipper it'll protect the transmission but if you just add the 501 diff halves in the rear (or the cheaper 3 racing version) then you should have no problems regardless of motor.

What he said. Outdrives on the rear and it's as capable as other buggies.

[Donutt]

I wouldn't worry about this statement, as you have the slipper it'll protect the transmission but if you just add the 501 diff halves in the rear (or the cheaper 3 racing version) then you should have no problems regardless of motor.

What he said. Outdrives on the rear and it's as capable as other buggies.

Guys - my statement was based on the probability of that common problem for noobs: to lock up the slipper or get it on the tight-side of a proper setting.
I was thinking about that when advising FrogJim to not throw in ANY motor and expect the plastic outdrives to hold up.

I agree the 501 or 3racing outdrives would be a great buy, and also go to a local club and ask anyone there if they'll help you make sure the slipper is set properly before putting serious horses in the car. They'll be able to explain and show you how it all works.

And it's a cracking car and handles really well when you get it up to speed. I wasn't trying to be negative about the DB01 - apologies if it sounded like that.

[peetbee]

Well, I'll let you off this time, but don't do it again!

[DCM]

STREWTH, someone calling into question the reliability of a DB01, and I only just seen it!!!! BAH!!... I best go check my two year old rear diff then!!!

[Donutt]

STREWTH, someone calling into question the reliability of a DB01, and I only just seen it!!!! BAH!!... I best go check my two year old rear diff then!!!

OK, OK, point taken! lol

DB01 is a great car - I was only thinking about "what if" scenario re the slipper.
Give a guy a break... (well, not the diff of course!)