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#1
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![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Our track!! ![]() |
#2
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Have you got auto break set on or are you hitting the breaks on landing?
Are you landing on throttle? |
#3
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Looks like a manafacturing problem, they wouldnt strip under braking. Send durangeo an email, im sure they will happily replace them!
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Schumacher Racing - Reedy - Schelle - TKR - Bandicoot Bodies - MIP - Nextlevelrc - Trishbits - Moss Models |
#4
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They will off of a Jump Ben I wasn't on about just breaking at the end of a straight.
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#5
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The break was normally hitting as need slowing down, and the throttle was pulled after wheels landing fully. Normally Drive.No auto break. Many Thanks!!
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#6
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Im with ben, you can see its poor casting by the way the broken part is all pitted and not shiney. lets face it the associated/d4/kyosho have plastic gears which take loed, thats a poor casting to me not wear Contact durango asap.
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MBModels - Schumacher Racing - Vapextech.co.uk - MRT - Savox - SMD |
#7
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Yeah, what ben and mark said, they shouldn't break under normal racing conditions, even tough ones..
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#8
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Have you checked your shimming? I never experienced such a thing with my Lazer which has plastic gears
![]() Intruiging to say the least... |
#9
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ohh looks expencive
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#10
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DELETED
Last edited by jhammond; 08-06-2015 at 09:23 PM. |
#11
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Actually, we already used B44 shimming to instead. In the beginning, I think this damage might be caused from my slipper just it is too tire. We move back the sliper 1.5mm~2.5mm from the original setting and continue to race. Broken Again. I am with Ben and Mallet too. The gear ratio also has some problem too. Track photos http://www.hobbyplayer.com/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=16174&forum=33&post_id=9852 6#forumpost98526 this track is 2.5 years old,( South Taiwan), New course finished last Saturday. Our 6th racing is on Dec 06, 2009. ![]() |
#12
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__________________
MBModels - Schumacher Racing - Vapextech.co.uk - MRT - Savox - SMD |
#13
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TNT
I'm not sure what's causing your problem..... It's something we are certainly not aware about at the moment, we are currently racing on the highest grip surface tyres in EU at the moment (Carpet with Mini-Pin tyres) and we have had no gear breakage issues. The shimming in the kit should be fine (there is no need to alter it) it will be a failry tight mesh to start with, but after a few packs it soon becomes free. The best thing I can suggest is to send you gears back to your local Durango retailer/Distributor, they will check out the gears for you to see if there is an issue with your gears. When you get your new gears, shim them as per instructions and run the car for a few packs in a parking lot to help bed the gears in before you go to the track. (You shouldn't normally have to do this) but if you find your gears break in the parking lot then there must be an issue elsewhere in your car. Hope this helps
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5 Time Oople Invernational SC Champion. Powered by OptiPower Do, or do not, there is no try! |
#14
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I will agree with Adam on this, We have given them some right abuse over the last few months and Adam a lot more aswell. ![]() I ran a small file up and down every tooth on both the diff gear and the crown gear ( always done it for my 1/8th scale) just to make sure there is no molding flashes and the like. Also check the crown /pinion bearings are ok and when the diff is installed that the input shaft does not have to much movement. And like adam says run the gears in !
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Weight loss only requires one frame of mind " DO OR DO NOT ! THERE IS NO TRY " |
#15
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@ Adam
the shimming in the kit instuctions are away different from the instructions you get with the complete diff set you can buy separately, is that normal? |
#16
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i only have a little problem with the outdrives after one race, the rest of the car is okey, the slipper must be a slipper not a gripper. lol
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