Fitting a Xcelorin ESC in an XXX-CR

[stical]

Good morning everybody,

I've been desperatly trying to get either an LRP Sphere or Losi Excelorin ESC
to fit in my Losi XXX-CR with the normal body.

However it looks like the normal body is too low ?

I could try the Phobia body or the BK2 body but i'm just wondering if people
are able to fit an 2009 ESC in with the normal body.

Another concern are the motor wires running from the ESC towards the motor .

I've read here that most people solder them directly to the motor but do they have to pass through the rear shock tower otherwise (yup , here we go again ) the body doesn't fit or the wires rub against the turnbuckle or the rear shock.

Soldering directly does however implicate that removing a motor (when the wires go through the shock tower) means desoldering it or are there connectors that can be used ( corally ? deans ? ) withouth any performance loss ?

Appreciate your feedback here,
Erik

[i4n]

Erik,

You've got several options for you body:

1. You can use the normal body but don't use the cut line, cut below it, increasing the height of the side of the body which gives you the clearence.

2. Use the Phobia body which has all the room you need (which is what I do as I think the Phobia looks better than the normal body)

3. Don't run the fan on top of the ESC as in 2WD you don't really need it. Then you can use the normal body, normally.

As for you motor, I solder mine directly (minimises losses and stops potential of high resistance from connectors) and I pass the wires through the rear shock tower which routes them nicely. It only takes 2 min to desolder the wires to change the motor.

Ian

[peetbee]

I use the normal body but otherwise do exactly the same as Ian with no problems

[pugboy]

I use a sphere with normal body but it is pretty snug on the heatsink (no fan needed), so with hindsight the suggestion to cut a mm or 2 below the cut line would mean it would fit ok for sure, or alternatively the Phobia body. I think the Losi speedo is a little bigger but some people seem to run them, not quite sure how.

Chris

[ashleyb4]

Chris if you running a normal sphere aposed to a Sphere TC just take the heat sink off i ran mine with just the normal top plate for age with no problems.

A

[Ferret]

Some people I know cut a "window" in the bodyshell above the ESC, that allows it to peek out when the body is on, it also aids cooling although as others wrote it isn't a big issue in a 2WD buggy.

I use bullet connectors between all my motors and ESCs. With the power and runtime available through brushless and LiPos I never noticed any issues compared with direct soldering. Maintainance is much easier, as is experimenting with different motors as a setup tool.

[pugboy]

Originally Posted by ashleyb4

Chris if you running a normal sphere aposed to a Sphere TC just take the heat sink off i ran mine with just the normal top plate for age with no problems.

A

Cheers Ash, might try that, I run a 6.5 in my CR, is that what you run? I'll see how hot the heatsink gets then maybe remove it if it's not really warming up, never really checked how hot it gets.

[Belsten]

I ran the std body cut below the cut lines. Soldered the wires on the motor which passed through the shock mount. No fan on the speedo and ran both a 6.5 & 7.5. 7.5 is plenty though. You could always apply a bit of rymart chassis protective sheet to the shell above the speedo and on the shell where the motor wires go through the shock mount to protect your paint work

[Southwell]

I took the fan off, dremelled down the metal stand offs and whacked it back on, job done.

[tony12795]

Yeah, I have done the same as Southwell. and dont run the wires over the speedo to protect the fan from damage.....
Fits perfect

Tony

[ashleyb4]

Are you running the std cr or the cr2 tony????????

A

[tony12795]

CR2 Mate.

[HyperDunley]

@ Pugboy....

Where do you go racing your 1/10th mate?? I am in Stockport too and fancy going to a 10th meeting. I use to race too around 18/20 years ago mate. I race 1/8 Nitro now and love it!!