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#1
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Do any BJ4WE owners use the Racers edge alloy rear hubs?
Is there any advantage to these for a BJ4WE over the stock, and much cheaper, AE hubs? If they are worth buying does anybody know where to find these for reasonable price in any other colour than gold? Any other options worth looking at for the BJ4? Which spares do you carry with you for the car? Thanks ![]() |
#2
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Hi Paul,
I used to use the RE hubs on the origonal car sometimes on very high grip tracks, but backwards to reduce toe-in. On the Worlds they arn't needed as there is plenty of weight on the rear wheels and plenty of drive. You can only get the RE hubs in the gold colour, if you want blue ones you need either Trinity or Rayspeed hubs. The standard plastic hubs are best IMO, less weight and less chance of snapping a ballstud. The only spares you'll need are front wishbones and possibly the Losi steering blocks, other than that the car is indestructable ![]() |
#4
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Cool sounds like it's a tough wee beastie
![]() How about transmission bits, gear sets, slipper pads, and the like? Is the front one way diff required or is the one way shaft fine as an option? |
#5
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I think some people find the 1 way diff too twitchy when the grip comes up, so the shaft makes it easier to drive with a similar effect.
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#6
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It can be handy to have a set of gears handy, if the slipper is fully locked up they can fail under extreme stress (like holding the throttle wide open during an accident causing suddent jolts to the drive train, but you wouldn't do that would you
![]() The two one way options do different things, the centre one way is easier to drive in general than the one way diff but normally slower unless the track is bumpy. The one way diff gives medium initial turn-in, medium mid corner steering and the most on power exit steering. The centre one way gives medium initial steering, the most mid corner and medium on power steering. Full time 4wd gives the least entry and mid corner steering, and medium on power steering. Indoors I always use the one way diff, outdoors I go to the centre one way on dirt or if the track cuts up badly. |
#7
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Nonsense ! I killed Andy Shillito's brand new WE within 2 mins of getting my hands on it at Batley
![]() ![]() I did top deck, rear driveshaft, ballstud , Wheel............... and I was being careful ![]() ![]()
__________________
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#8
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How the heck do you break a wheel John you animal
![]() Or a topdeck for that matter ![]() Mine survived Mr Harris' driving at Southport last year ( ![]() ![]() |
#9
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Whistling and walking away
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#10
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Front arms, and towers are definately the two main things that you may break on the car. Just a word of warning if you start running the front diff one-way, stock up on dogbones. The locking action seems to put extra stress on the front end parts.
__________________
The American "Andy Moore" | Kyosho America | kyoshoamerica.com | Team Orion | teamorion.com |Winning Edge Designs | wedjim.com | Jab Graphix | jabgraphix.com | |
#11
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![]() Quote:
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__________________
Jonathan | Atomic-Carbon |
#12
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![]() Quote:
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__________________
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#13
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Thanks for the replys
![]() On the subject of destruction I remember Fishy desroying his XX4 at Batley, he broke his 2wd and couldn't be bothered to repair it, so decided to give the 4wd a run. He put it down on the straight facing the stream and switched it on, with no crystal fitted... It took off like a scalded cat with a rocket strapped to it's back and would've landed in the stream but the paving edge stone stopped it...dead ![]() The list of destruction ran something like this, chassis, front tower, front bulkhead, wishbones, shock shafts, etc, etc... ![]() ![]() |
#14
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That was the very day I first met fish!
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#15
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LoL it was certainly memorable
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