Ran My New TFR511

[djmcnz]

So, I took the plunge and have taken the pristine chassis out for a bit of a shakedown and run-in. First impressions: top shelf!

It is a real beauty to run, and very fluid too even with the out-of-the-box setup.

Shakedown and basic tuning were done on an astro-turf soccer field with cones and a basic ramp. Very little needed changing actually to achieve a neutral setup. I had to wet down a corner of the field with a hose to rid myself of lateral grip to expose and then dial out the oversteer but once that was done and I'd added a bit of toe-in I feel like I've got a reasonably neutral setup. I will need to add heavier weight shock oil, the Tamiya box stuff is too soft IMHO. Interestingly, where I was unhappy with the standard 501X springs, the kit ones seemed okay for the 511 - I suspect this is more to do with the battery change to LiPo's than anything else.

Talking about LiPo's, damn they're light... had the rear end skipping (hopping) all over the place in high speed turns because the rear end wasn't planted enough. A little bit of weight and some preload adjustment fixed this but it's not a particularly flexible setup so I will probably play with springs some more.

Two packs and a diff tear-down revealed no problems, not too tight, not too loose... I might even be getting better at this lol.

Second day, two more packs but this time on undulating dust, fine sand, low grip. Rocket ship. Plain and simple. All I did was swap out all four springs to compensate for the reduction in grip and smoothness and I was instantly back to neutral again... I love this chassis.

Halfway through pack two I lost steering, a bridge to arm screw had come loose. I found the screw in the undercowl but alas the 4.5x3.5mm flanged tube was gone... no spares. Have ordered 4 replacement TRF416 equivalents.

All in all I'm happy, and with the electrics too (LRP)... the 8.5t X12 is way fast for my needs at the moment. I can recommend the 511 to anybody although of course, only those with some experience will appreciate the finer points of the chassis and its handling.

Altough the body has more space than the 511X it's still not really enough. The rear body post could usefully be about 5mm higher. Battery leads rub on the underside of the body too. I will need to get some 90 degree laydown 4mm leads.

Yet to install my new LiPo cradle and diff cover from Fredrik (didn't arrive in time for the weekend run) but will do so after I've moved house this weekend and before I'm back out.

Over two days:

Run time = ~80mins
Setup time = ~8mins

Now that's a good ratio!

[jhammond]

+1 for the kit oil being too soft.


I'm still running a 501x, but maintenance looks so much simpler with the 511x! Rather jealous.

Let us know how Fredrik's parts go for you.

All the best,

Julius.

[CraigM]

Nice. I've run my 511 at two meets now and agree that the box setup is pretty damn good. Until now I've been running a b44 body and tray which has plenty of room for electrics but I'm running 4200mah lipos which aren't too big and I solder my corallys to be L shaped so clearance at the back isn't an issue - I have a 511 body ready to paint so I'll see how it goes, I doubt it will be a problem though.

So far I've broken the following parts.
1. Servo horn: which I replaced with a square RC alloy unit from the 416 which I had in my kit - the tamiya horns tend to get saggy after a while and wont re-centre, on the 416 I went to a kimbrough one and probably will when the 511 goes the same way

2. Diff pulley: Something must have found its way into the belt and chipped the edges off the belt pulley along a couple of the teeth. It lasted the rest of the meet, but is in the bin now

3. Front arm: pretty standard

I'm looking forward to running the car a little more and maybe changing a thing or two with the setup once my driving comes up to the same level as the car

[bombman]

Hi.
I was running the TRF511 in the last months and it realy amazing.
I would like to recommend of using the front arms of the TRF501, the arms of the 511 are like glass, and i will not chance my race with low quality of arms.
besides that, i think that the center one way is a great upgarde to the 511.
Guy

[shanks]

Plus 2 on 501x arms - mine haven't broke at all really suprised considering the amount of rolls it's had

[AaronR]

I, too, built my 511 with 501X suspension arms.

I broke ONE arm in 2.5 years of racing a 4WD Tamiya (2 501Xs, one 511). Travelling full speed in a straight-away, I got too close to a plywood wall with the front left tire and caught it in a existing hole in the wall.

I really cannot see much else breaking the 501X suspension arms. They are VERY thick!

[qatmix]

Originally Posted by CraigM

So far I've broken the following parts.
1. Servo horn: which I replaced with a square RC alloy unit from the 416 which I had in my kit - the tamiya horns tend to get saggy after a while and wont re-centre, on the 416 I went to a kimbrough one and probably will when the 511 goes the same way

Tamiya servo savers are just terrible. Even though its my favourite manufacturer I always replace the servo savers with kimbrough ones on my racers.

As to the 511, anyone care to post some pics of them?

[Fredrik Emilsson]

I agree that 501X arms are very durable, but I think the 511 arms also can take quite some abuse. Maybe I´ve just been lucky?

Now, Tamiya has (as you probably have seen) written that the high traction arms "For high strength and durability, please use item 51279".
They probably mean item 51275 when talking about the front arms, because 51279 are rear arms...
They use the same label text on both front and rear high traction arms...

Anyone tried the db01 "standard" arms (51311)?
Should give some flex and be rather durable.

Guy, any luck with the centre one-way?

[pugs]

Anyone tried the db01 "standard" arms (51311)?
Should give some flex and be rather durable.

[/quote]


Hi, I use the standard db01 arms all the time on grippy carpet tracks, they take some of the 'edge' off the car with less flex and make it more predictable

[bombman]

Originally Posted by Fredrik Emilsson

I agree that 501X arms are very durable, but I think the 511 arms also can take quite some abuse. Maybe I´ve just been lucky?

Now, Tamiya has (as you probably have seen) written that the high traction arms "For high strength and durability, please use item 51279".
They probably mean item 51275 when talking about the front arms, because 51279 are rear arms...
They use the same label text on both front and rear high traction arms...

Anyone tried the db01 "standard" arms (51311)?
Should give some flex and be rather durable.

Guy, any luck with the centre one-way?

Hi Fredrik
I had some problems with the center one way, but i preffer using it, the car behave much better, more control.
regarding the servo horn, i use straight horn, just like to nitro cars, with very strong servo.

[CraigM]

Originally Posted by Fredrik Emilsson

I agree that 501X arms are very durable, but I think the 511 arms also can take quite some abuse. Maybe I´ve just been lucky?

Now, Tamiya has (as you probably have seen) written that the high traction arms "For high strength and durability, please use item 51279".
They probably mean item 51275 when talking about the front arms, because 51279 are rear arms...
They use the same label text on both front and rear high traction arms...

Anyone tried the db01 "standard" arms (51311)?
Should give some flex and be rather durable.

Guy, any luck with the centre one-way?

the 511 arms (db01r?) are probably as soft as I'd want to go. When I broke the one, I replaced it with a 501x arm and yes it was a lot more durable, but the 511 one took so much punishment I don't see any reason to change - at least on the tracks I race on

[mole2k]

I've been quite tempted to try the center one way in my 501x. I used to run them years ago but havnt run one in ages. I loved the ABS in my Cat 3000, it was really usefull on the polished wooden floor for being able to brake while going around the corner.

[shanks]

I have a bnip centre one way I don't want that I'd sell

[B44&501xRacerEX]

Does the 511 drive better than a 501x worlds car?
Because I dont see much difference between the cars to matter much to go all out and buy another car.
Are the diff balls still the same so you have the problem of melting pulleys?
Buying tungsten carbide balls solved my problem there.

[CraigM]

Originally Posted by qatmix

As to the 511, anyone care to post some pics of them?

Finally got around to taking some