RB5 plus SP upgrade

[Neil Skull]

Just to let all you kyosho lovers know the important parts needed for the SP upgrade.

We hope this will fill the gap whilst waiting for the full sp to come (pardon the pun)

Thanks to FABS and Jean for helping with this.

The necessary parts to convert to new SP type are:
UM505B Front Knuckle & Hub Carrier B type
UM508B Gearbox set B type
UM519 Rear Hub B type
UM520 Rear shock tower (Short)
UM521 Suspension Arm set (1 Front & 1 Rear) x2
UM522 Universal shaft 65.5mm
W5196-01V Rear Velvet Coated Shock case

We have a real good offer about to start on for the existing RB5 plus all the parts above.
Ask your local shop for prices.

[Fabs]

You're welcome Neil

Anyone wanting to know why some of the parts have been deemed not indispensable you can ask me here.

[Lowie]

I'm new with the RB5.
Could someone explain what the differences are between these parts and the stock RB5-parts?

And if possible, if they are really needed or what they improve on the car's behaviour.
Big Thank-You in advance

[paulc]

with the rear wishbones changing proline axles won't fit

[Fabs]

Ludo,

While the front end of the car remains unchanged, the rear suspension is mainly totally new:

New rear wishbones (2mm longer) + rear hubs (no geometry change but the removal of holes that aren't used for a lighter hub)

Shorter rear shock body + lower rear shock tower for lower CoG.

These two things were what made the worlds rear end kit.

Then you have the SP specific parts which are the rear driveshafts + wider suspension holders.

The driveshafts allow you to get rid of the blue spacer between the hub and the wheel hex, while the suspension block are wider to bring the rear end width back to what it was.

While I haven't yet tried these two last options, I can tell you that the worlds rear end frees up the rear end a little bit and at the same time helps with absorbing the bumps.

The trend in the US at the moment is to run the car with the worlds rear end, SP driveshafts + normal blocks. This brings the car's width back to what it is on the original RB5 whilst taking advantage of the longer wishbones.

[Fabs]

Originally Posted by paulc

with the rear wishbones changing proline axles won't fit

I'm not sure why they wouldn't fit, but then again I don't use them. I know RogerM has the worlds rear end with proline axles

[Neil Skull]

Originally Posted by paulc

with the rear wishbones changing proline axles won't fit

So far no-one has said this is a problem,

I cant see why it would be. unless they had made the wishbones much longer or shorter it should not matter.

[njc11]

As Fabs says you need UM522..

This is a new part.. and comes with a Shorter Stub axel so you do away with the washer that you have to use in the standard kit and the worlds rear end kit.

I bought a set of shafts from rdvg on ebay part no. LA245 which had the shorter stub axle on the shaft (this is the same shaft you find o an FS) you only use the stub axle.

When i fitted the shorter stub axle to the worlds rear ended RB5 shafts i have, it made the car narrower... but if you have the new gear box set with the wider plastic suspension holders or the UMW514 and UMW515 blue ally wider suspension holders then this will push the car back to width..





I cant see why the proline axle wont work? You just need to put the stub axle part to the drive shaft already on the car..

Hope this helps

Nick

[njc11]

Just found this on..

www.kyoshoforum.com

Lot's of confusion here in regards to the various CVD and axles so hopefully this will settle that.

RB5

Stock CVD is 62.5mm and silver (UM510)
Mid-Arm CVD is 65.5mm and black (LA232)
New axle kit comes with a 62.5mm bone which is silver (LA245) ----USE the LA232 BONE (65.5mm) and ONLY the new axle!!


Lazer SP/FS

Front CVD is 73mm (LA257)
SP CVD is 60.5mm and black (LA258)
FS CVD is 62.5mm and silver (UM510)
New axle is 62.5mm and silver (LA245) ----THIS WILL MAKE YOUR SP/FS 2MM NARROWER!!!!

Axles

RB5
Stock Axles an Stock arms will theoretically give you more steering, and less stability when compared to the Mid-Arm conversion

Mid-Arm extends the Stock arms 2mm to give more rough handling and traction

New axles bring in the axles 2mm to coincide with the stock width, but you keep the rough handling of the longer mid arms but with increased steering. Best of both worlds.

Pro-Line axles I think may be the longest of them all but only by 1-2mm more than stock. So Mid-Arm + PL Axles = widest car.

So you could run the following

Stock = Probably real good on real high bite and smooth tracks
Stock axles + Midarm = 2mm wider than stock, gives more rear traction and rough handling
New Axles + Midarm = overall stock width with better rough handling than stock
New Axles + Stock Arms = way too narrow than you would want

The RB5 also comes with a new rear pivot for a total of TWO options. The new one is wider, so it would basically make your car wider in all options.


I think that covers it. Im sure Steve and Jayson can correct anything that is wrong.


Im trying to find a pic to show you the difference on the stub axles... the standard RB5 stub has the black bands round it the shorter NEW stub axle only has 2 bands..

Cheers

Nick

[njc11]

Here you go...

Shows the new shorter stub axle at the top and the standard one below..



Standard RB5 Set Up



With new Stub Axles..



Heres where i got info...

http://www.kyoshoforum.com/forum/sho...ighlight=axles

Cheers

Nick