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Old 15-08-2013
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Default New to the TM2

Hi guys,I should be getting my new TM2 in the post either today or tomorrow and was wondering if there's anything I need do to it as I go through the build or is it just a case of build straight from the box?.

My thinking is if any tweeks need doing to it I can do them as I go through rather than after its all been built and taking it to bits again.

I've read through a few threads and picked a bit of info up but if you have any more it would be greatly appreciated.

Phill
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Old 15-08-2013
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Junk the kit spur and slipper pads and fit the RW spur
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Old 15-08-2013
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New kit spur gears are all good now .
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Old 15-08-2013
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Fit the shock pistons the right way around, they show facing upwards in the build the tapers face down, also you may have to trim the 2 upper carbon plates that top off the motor plate to be able to fit the spur cover
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Old 15-08-2013
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Quote:
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New kit spur gears are all good now .
But the pads are rubbish aswell
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Old 15-08-2013
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Make sure to dremel the battery plate to clear the connections.
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Old 15-08-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chalkie View Post
Make sure to dremel the battery plate to clear the connections.
^^^^^ Main thing to do, cost me a brand new lipo.... ^^^^^

Otherwise awesome cars... see Alec's top team tips for the other mods...
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  #8  
Old 15-08-2013
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I built one a few weeks ago and junk the spur and slipper pads, it overheated and the slipper nut backed off and started melting the plastics around it , first three heats after 6-7 laps the slipper had backed off ???
I fitted a durango 85 t spur and ae hd pads and perfect and 6-7 10ths a lap quicker than my 210, this is on indoor astro. Apart from this kit build.
Will have my 2nd race this weekend so will know more after this.
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Old 16-08-2013
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Personally I've not had a single problem with the kit black spur gear or slipper pads, yes the original kit yellow spur was rubbish but they have been replaced by the black ones now.

But then again I have the slipper quite tight to use all the power available as the TM2 just refuses to wheelie, and fires out of corners like a bullet out of a gun.
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Old 16-08-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brooksy View Post
Hi guys,I should be getting my new TM2 in the post either today or tomorrow and was wondering if there's anything I need do to it as I go through the build or is it just a case of build straight from the box?.

My thinking is if any tweeks need doing to it I can do them as I go through rather than after its all been built and taking it to bits again.

I've read through a few threads and picked a bit of info up but if you have any more it would be greatly appreciated.

Phill
Hi, if you have any questions or problems please feel free to PM me on here and i'll gladly help out.

Alec
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Old 16-08-2013
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Thanks for all the replies fellas. Missed the post yesterday so ill be fetching it from post office tomorrow. Won't be able to start the build until Monday so im hoping to give it it's first outing at RHR on Wednesday weather permitting.
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Old 16-08-2013
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Cheers Alec I will

Has anybody run there's on a surface like Worksop indoors?. Ill be running it there this winter,as long as I'm not working.
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Old 16-08-2013
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I’ve had my TM2 since Feb (car 3 in the UK thanks to John) and the yellow spur wasn’t the best. After talking to John and Alec I swapped it out for a black plastic spur and haven’t had a problem for 5 months. I’m still using the same spur and slipper pads.

I’ve brought an RW spur as a back up and 'touch wood' haven’t needed it.

All I would recommend for the TM2 is ali C hub 30 deg and and Ali front castle.

Drill out 2 or 3 holes of the 6 hole shock pistons (I've done 3), it make the car feel load better round corners and over the bumps.

Like I said the car bullet proof, I don’t even own any spares and I race every week and have been to all of the rounds of the regionals. Anyone that knows me will agree, the car can take some hammer . However, after time you will get wear on the pin of the rear drive shaft (which can be pressed out and replaced) and your front wish bones will wear out before they break.
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Old 16-08-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brooksy View Post
Cheers Alec I will

Has anybody run there's on a surface like Worksop indoors?. Ill be running it there this winter,as long as I'm not working.
I did the last round of last years series with mine, If I remember right I got into the C final (much higher than i'd ever previously managed with anything else)

I would say to run 10000 minimum diff oil in it there, maybe even 15000, no roll bar
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  #15  
Old 17-08-2013
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I'll keep that in mind John,I don't usually do very well at Worksop. Think the best I've ever done is around E final.
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Old 17-08-2013
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Hi Brooksy cur the top deck straight down the middle length ways of course with a dremmel it gives the car more flex and grip most people have done this and drill 2 holes out on each piston to 1.4 otherwise the cars good as mentioned just alloy c hubs and I use 2000wt oil in the diff and 30wt front shocks and 27.5wt rear shocks the car feels and drives amazing on carpet
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  #17  
Old 17-08-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by john333 View Post
I did the last round of last years series with mine, If I remember right I got into the C final (much higher than i'd ever previously managed with anything else)

I would say to run 10000 minimum diff oil in it there, maybe even 15000, no roll bar
Wow that's high John. Would advantage does this give?
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  #18  
Old 17-08-2013
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I assume John meant 1000 not 10,000 Though i could be wrong ?
Also should you cut the top deck on high grip astro indoors .
2nd run tomorrow so see what its like then.
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  #19  
Old 17-08-2013
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No it will be 10 000, I run 10 000 - weight its great both indoors & outdoor. Even thought about trying 20 000 outdoors. John should be able to explain better. Give it a try you might like it
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  #20  
Old 17-08-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deano43 View Post
Hi Brooksy cur the top deck straight down the middle length ways of course with a dremmel it gives the car more flex and grip most people have done this and drill 2 holes out on each piston to 1.4 otherwise the cars good as mentioned just alloy c hubs and I use 2000wt oil in the diff and 30wt front shocks and 27.5wt rear shocks the car feels and drives amazing on carpet

The cutting of the top deck will have to wait I'm afraid....I've not got a dremmel,but I will get one.

I don't know if John made a mistake with the oil weights or not but Worksop indoors is very slippy and dusty until the track warms up and we've run through the practice rounds. That's why I never do well there,I have problems changing set up to go with the different driving conditions.
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