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Hi Guys,
I have an X5 built by a previous owner but not run I think. I am waiting for the upgrade squared kit at the moment so was going to give it a couple of meetings as is, but have a few quick questions: 1. Built as standard will I get the belt through a couple of meetings (max 4) ok? Assuming no track is like the Euro one anyway!! I don't really want to make any mods until I do the upgrade! 2. Is there anything else likely to give me trouble short term whilst running it? 3. What gearing should I run on a 5.5? Cheers, Dave |
#2
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hi Dave we ran the std kit when everyone else had gone to the squared and did so for over 12 months, it fine works a treat,belt should be no probs at all,remember to run it softer than you think you need to at least one setting on all, springs oil etc especially at the rear, if your at bury this weekend come see me or Chris or any of the others running it, we don't bite i promise lol
PS ask for Carl latham as far as gearing goes 5.5 novak = 15-16 nosram = 13-14 unless its sintered rotor then similar to novak
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Mattys the driver,my names carl
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#3
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Cheers,
Is it 48dp by the way? |
#4
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It is indeed
__________________
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#5
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48 is pretty much std in off road,never seen anything other than that in the past 5 years anyway
__________________
Mattys the driver,my names carl
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#6
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i ran my bonded LRP X11 5.5 on either 18 108 or 18 104..... 18 108 was very punchy indeed, and the 18 104 was not as punchy but quite a bit quicker in a straight line.
Those gear ratios were with Lipo's too ![]() ![]() ![]() |
#7
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Hi guys,
Have done some changes now, using the squared chassis (original drivetrain though) and have also put the espeed shock plates and rear camber plate on (as well as the castor block screws), couple of quick questions: 1. What nut/spacer mount setup are people using on the rear to mount the shocks when they have the carbon brace on. I have tried to replicate the original position by using the none threadlocked nut then the smaller of the 2 sizes of shock bushing, whereas without the carbon piece I used the thicker bushing. However my rear shocks don't quite look vertical (they are slightly behind at the top compared to the bottom), is this ok or do I need to try and cut down the spacer or similar? 2. Are other people running the carbon shock braces also holding the carbon to the original shock tower with further scews/nuts on the outside top shock hole? At the moment I am just using the ball joints/shocks on the front and wing/shocks on the rear to hold the carbon brace to the tower, but wondered if that was strong enough or if a screw/nut on the outside hole may make it stronger? |
#8
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replaced all the screws with slighty longer ones and run it as normal, if thats what you were asking,?
__________________
Mattys the driver,my names carl
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#9
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Left that bit out!
![]() I've used slightly longer screws on everything, but its the actual position of the shocks that looks a bit funny, little worried about bending rear shock shafts. I assume from what you just said that you've just changed the screw lengths though? |
#10
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do you mean because there leaning backwards a bit, no worries as long as you dont over tighten the nuts and bolts up,
__________________
Mattys the driver,my names carl
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#11
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Cheers, that exactly what I mean't, I've made sure they can still move around ont he bushing as thety should!
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#12
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Actually on the rears if you swap the shock bushing round so it goes in from the back rather than the front the rear shocks return to their correct alignment
![]() No need to bother with extra screws on the outer holes, would be a waste of time.
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Nortech is ACE! |
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