K1 Understeer/lack of Rotation???

[dibble34]

Hi all

1st time out with my k1 on dry astro today and although very safe it felt like I struggled to get it to turn in. (Been fine in wet)

I then ran my sx3 in the final and did my fastest lap of the day. If felt much more alive and felt I could push going into corners.

K1 setup is as follows

Rear

Si moss rear block setup, 38mm camber link, midde hole on hub, 3 mm washers under inside link. Middle on tower and inside on wishbones. 2.5 springs with black pistons and 32.5 oil

Front

38mm camber with 2mm washers on inside link. Middle tower and wishbone, 4 springs with white pistons and 37.5 oil. 2mm added to alloy hinge pin blocks for extra width.

Long wheel base


Now I was thinking of getting the 42.5 front camber link, thinking a shorter link may give a better turn in response? Was also considering medium or short wheelbase as car is very long compared to sx3.

Would appreciate any thoughts?

Cheers

Dave

[Martin Wallace]

Originally Posted by dibble34

Hi all

1st time out with my k1 on dry astro today and although very safe it felt like I struggled to get it to turn in. (Been fine in wet)

I then ran my sx3 in the final and did my fastest lap of the day. If felt much more alive and felt I could push going into corners.

K1 setup is as follows

Rear

Si moss rear block setup, 38mm camber link, midde hole on hub, 3 mm washers under inside link. Middle on tower and inside on wishbones. 2.5 springs with black pistons and 32.5 oil

Front

38mm camber with 2mm washers on inside link. Middle tower and wishbone, 4 springs with white pistons and 37.5 oil. 2mm added to alloy hinge pin blocks for extra width.

Long wheel base


Now I was thinking of getting the 42.5 front camber link, thinking a shorter link may give a better turn in response? Was also considering medium or short wheelbase as car is very long compared to sx3.

Would appreciate any thoughts?

Cheers

Dave

which front yokes are you running, the kit is 10deg, 7.5 or 5 will give you more steering. lower the number the more steering you will get.

copying set ups doesnt always work as each driving style is different, the kit set up isnt very far away with diff yokes.

martin

[dibble34]

Got 7.5's. Simons setups are normally pretty good place for me to start, then adjust from there. Just need that little more reaction

[Mossy]

Ive had the same issues at a couple of tracks. Run a shorter front link and leave the 2mm washers under the ball stud and it will be better

Si

[dibble34]

Cheers Simon, I'll give that a try. My tow in is 3mm rear and 0.5mm front. The other thing I considered was a rear ARB.

[stegger]

Si, would reducing the rear toe in help as well ?

[Spu83]

Try 35wt up front and/or move the battery forward.

[Mossy]

Not massively to be honest. Your kinda trading one thing off for the other. An anti roll bar mate would give you more stability as oppose to gaining steering.

Si

[dibble34]

Ok thanks Si, got the link on order

[chuckie stella]

This is the easiest change I made for initial steering

[dibble34]

Just wanted to update this thread with results. I shortened the front link and turn in improved

[tyreman]

Raising the outer ball stud will also help.

[dibble34]

Originally Posted by tyreman

Raising the outer ball stud will also help.

I have lowered the inside with a 2mm washer, that's good to know if I need more. Cheers

[richardh]

I'm currently running the K1 on polished wood - with the kit setup I initially struggled with a general lack of steering as well.

So far have found that going with a longer front link (1 dink mount) and the inner ball stud as high as it will go - coupled with a short rear link (3 dink mount) and 4mm of spacers under the inner ball stud has helped give a LOT more rotation. I have also put 4mm of spacers under the rear shock pistons to limit drop, again to help the car rotate.

Also added some spacers (approx 2mm) to the rear wisbone pivot mounts to widen the track and gain some more on power traction.