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  #1921  
Old 27-09-2011
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Alcyon


there are 2 spurs LA-2 wich are 88 teeth 0,5 module or something like that
and the TM-7 wich uses 48 pitch and have 100 teeth.


mvh Isobarik
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  #1922  
Old 27-09-2011
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Originally Posted by oli4ke View Post
Guys looking for turbo optima mid special w5023 rims. 1 set needed! Can somebody help me......??
Many thanks in advance
Is it these wheels or the ones with the holes?

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  #1923  
Old 27-09-2011
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Originally Posted by Honeybadger View Post
Is it these wheels or the ones with the holes?

The yellow ones with the holes.
They are standard on the turbo optima mid special, W-5023 are the rear ones.
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  #1924  
Old 27-09-2011
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  #1925  
Old 27-09-2011
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Yes, those ones.... Is it your set of rims? Are they for sale?
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  #1926  
Old 27-09-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alcyon View Post
Welshy thanks so much for the detailed info, when i asked the first question, i wasnt asking if the RW spur will fit on the Mid, what i meant was the Mid uses 48dp standard, so my pinion choices are limited. Is the stock spur on the Mk2 and the RW spur 48p or 48dp? if its 48p then its easy for me to get pinions.
Again thanks so much for the information.
As Iso has already said it, Mid is a .5 and the Lazer was the first buggy that went from .6 to 48dp so the ZXR MK 1 and MK2 have 100 teeth 48dp spur gears and these can be used on ZX, ZXR Mk1 and 2. Also my design spur works on all as well and is also 100 teeth 48dp spur.
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  #1927  
Old 27-09-2011
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Originally Posted by Welshy40 View Post
The blue special unicrank may be possibly in a shop now in the UK
http://www.gladstons.com/shop/ for only £6.50 so worth buying.
none in stock
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  #1928  
Old 27-09-2011
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Pete, i will have a look round for you and let you know.
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  #1929  
Old 27-09-2011
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Thanks James, Matt's pretty sure that he can help me out
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  #1930  
Old 27-09-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peetbee View Post
none in stock



http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Kyosho-396...item45fcb6fd21
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  #1931  
Old 28-09-2011
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Default Race coming up

Looks like there is a buggy race coming up in a little over 2 weeks

http://www.rctech.net/forum/malaysia...ggy-track.html

depending on the parts that arrives to me before that time, i have a dilemma , use the Optima mid or the Lazer? anyone got LA-3 and LA-5 for sale?
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  #1932  
Old 28-09-2011
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Originally Posted by peetbee View Post
none in stock

i think i have like 6 sets or something like that .....

if you have the need for it ...

mvh isobarik
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  #1933  
Old 28-09-2011
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if anyone on here lives near Merthyr Tydfil you could get a bargain,

i've asked the seller 3 times to offer postage and i will bid a good ammount, but to no avail, no replies to all 3 messages,

someone is going to get a bargain....

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vintage-Ky...#ht_500wt_1156
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  #1934  
Old 28-09-2011
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They will most probably use the cash on drugs anyway as there is not much there and not much to do either.
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Designer of the Lazer ZXRS
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  #1935  
Old 28-09-2011
alcyon alcyon is offline
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Default red alert

hi guys, Oli just did my first purchase with you. i received My lazer hubs from B & H today and did some assembling on my Mid. Found a few things i didnt know. i am running out of kingpins ! i only have 4, enough for 1 car ! i need another bag ! is the kingpin for the optima Mid and Lazer the same? as far as i remembered they were.
Also i found another problem with LA-59. When i tried to screw in the lower kingpin, the whole knuckle binded and couldnt turn, i did some investigation and found that the upper side of the c hub is 4mm thickness, and the lower is 6mm. At the top side, when i tighthen the kingpin down, it doesnt bind, but at the bottom it does. Do i have to grind off 2mm from the lower side of LA-59? i think this problem also occurs for LA-27 ? If kyosho knew about this problem, why did they still mold them these way, they actually expect their customers to grind it themselves ?
Also , Welshy, you said that assembling LA59 with the inner hole to push out the front, if i didnt do that and used the outer hole (less track) what would the effect be? would the car have less steering or more ?
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  #1936  
Old 28-09-2011
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if i dont remember wrong there should be shorter and longer king pins....

mvh Isobarik
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  #1937  
Old 28-09-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by isobarik View Post
if i dont remember wrong there should be shorter and longer king pins....

mvh Isobarik
Correct Iso! The king pins from the lazer series are long ones =LA-21
The king pins from the optima mid series are short ones = OT-4
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  #1938  
Old 28-09-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alcyon View Post
hi guys, Oli just did my first purchase with you. i received My lazer hubs from B & H today and did some assembling on my Mid. Found a few things i didnt know. i am running out of kingpins ! i only have 4, enough for 1 car ! i need another bag ! is the kingpin for the optima Mid and Lazer the same? as far as i remembered they were.
Also i found another problem with LA-59. When i tried to screw in the lower kingpin, the whole knuckle binded and couldnt turn, i did some investigation and found that the upper side of the c hub is 4mm thickness, and the lower is 6mm. At the top side, when i tighthen the kingpin down, it doesnt bind, but at the bottom it does. Do i have to grind off 2mm from the lower side of LA-59? i think this problem also occurs for LA-27 ? If kyosho knew about this problem, why did they still mold them these way, they actually expect their customers to grind it themselves ?
Also , Welshy, you said that assembling LA59 with the inner hole to push out the front, if i didnt do that and used the outer hole (less track) what would the effect be? would the car have less steering or more ?
Firstly king pins. Make sure you use the items that are in the manual otherwise you will have problems. Me I used to loose a lot but then started using thread lock. WHen installing I would suggest doing the bottom first but only tighten up gently until it gets tight, then do the same with the top and then gradually move each a turn until its spot on. I have also used a washer and normal hex screws and is as good but you need to make sure there is zero slop in the washer. Its not the best design and if there is any slop on the UJ the vibration does tend to make the bottom king pin vibrate out so worth thread locking in and checking regularly. Look at the manuals for the ZX and ZXR, ZXRR as on one of the kits, I believe ZXRR they use hex washers that fit flush into the castor blocks and you use a screw to screw into the washers and that way you have a better option if you find zero king pins.

With the wider front end the car is much more stable, and much more forgiving but has much more steering. The standard setting is ok but understeers more and is hard to find a setup that is easy to drive. When I opted for the wider front I went from last in the Welsh Championship the previous year to fifth. The next year I lost the title by one point, but the car was a different animal with a wider front end.

I then several years later tried a fractionally narrower rear end and that gave more control so the rear followed the front and didn't want to bite and grip roll, so made the car more intense into and out of corners so you could use the power more and pull a gap when needed on the infield.

Try the standard car first and make your own mind up, all the info is on here and radiocontrolzone with all my design ideas and what was good and what was not. Hope this is of some use.
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Designer of the Lazer ZXRS
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  #1939  
Old 29-09-2011
alcyon alcyon is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oli4ke View Post
Correct Iso! The king pins from the lazer series are long ones =LA-21
The king pins from the optima mid series are short ones = OT-4
Oli you have LA-21 ?
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  #1940  
Old 29-09-2011
alcyon alcyon is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Welshy40 View Post
Basically yes, the back end needs to be set up so that it corresponds with the front (link is here for them http://demonpowerproducts.co.uk/prod...oducts_id=4838 ), and the only way I find to get it to work is by adding weight, specifically under the cells on either side and in the centre back end of the chassis so from the middle cells on the saddles to the motor. This aids jumping and balance under power. You can try as it and see as it may suit your style of driving, me I like aggressive. I base my weight on NICAD and NIMH cells and work around my original successful settings when using those cells.

I uses a corrally clip or equivalent with a flat top and solder onto that and use tape to stop a short circuit if the cells are close. I just U it under and have the battery holes forward facing on the chassis. I have also raised the top deck by 1.5mm and used 1.5 washers for the big screws ad Tamiya 1.5 washers for the two centre posts at the top. I did this due to adding two brass plates under the Lipo's but you may find the cells fit perfectly. I use Vampire 4400 and are the same height as a NIMH pack of cells.
welshy, i need at least a pair of those corally clips, could you sell a pair or two to me if you have extras? i dont want to register again at demon, i have registered at so many places recently, and in all likelihood i will only buy the clips and nothing else.
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