Team Tekin Q&A

[Chequered Flag Racing]

Originally Posted by DCM

I am erring on the sid of caution for the first run, as I have not run 10.5 in a 2wd as yet... for comparison, if you can do roll out, I run 6,09:1 on 58mm diameter wheels in saloon.

used settings as suggested

ran it on 27/78 and had plenty of go, motor got just warm and esc showing two led's for temp

[DCM]

hey, thats cool, will have to try it out when I get my 2WD through!!

[Randy p]

Originally Posted by Chequered Flag Racing

after final noticed all led's lighting up
light on specky

Are you running the little silver cap on the esc? If so what exactly is your setup? RS or RS Pro? What motor and gearing, track surface?

[Chequered Flag Racing]

Originally Posted by Randy p

Are you running the little silver cap on the esc? If so what exactly is your setup? RS or RS Pro? What motor and gearing, track surface?

cap yes, have some replacements on there way

RS Pro

Tekin 10.5 on 27/78 or 7.5:1 last night on indoor sports hall = slippy

when it shut down on Sunday it was a Nosram 7.5 on 26/78 or 7.8:1 rubberised floor medium grip surface

[Randy p]

What was your setting on the Nosram? If you were running boost with that setup you're way overtimed.

You should not be anywhere close to thermalling with a 7.5 I don't care what the grip. Make sure your cap is in good order.

The 7.5 should be run in dual mode with the timing advance bar set around 70-80.

[Chequered Flag Racing]

Originally Posted by Randy p

What was your setting on the Nosram? If you were running boost with that setup you're way overtimed.

You should not be anywhere close to thermalling with a 7.5 I don't care what the grip. Make sure your cap is in good order.

The 7.5 should be run in dual mode with the timing advance bar set around 70-80.

Nosram = zero on the can

ESC didn't thermal, motor was warm to touch. Only ran approx 2 mins in final on Sunday before car was shutting down. Tuesday night was OK, see post 160, all LED's flashing.

[Randy p]

Originally Posted by Chequered Flag Racing

Tuesday night was OK, see post 160, all LED's flashing.

Sorry, missed that bit. Yeah all flashing is no signal for us. Glad to see you got it sorted, again sorry for not reading thoroughly.

Cheers,

[RickRick]

Randy one of the previous posts says you use the solder posts as heatsinks, i've covered over my solder posts with heatshrink to protect against shorts. Is this a bad move?

[DCM]

Originally Posted by RickRick

Randy one of the previous posts says you use the solder posts as heatsinks, i've covered over my solder posts with heatshrink to protect against shorts. Is this a bad move?

what motor are you running?

What I do on mine, is I heatshrink Phase B, but not all the way down, only enough to cover the soldered connection, and the positive junction, and leave the rest open.

[RickRick]

i''m running a bonded 6.5 at the moment, i've got a 4.5 which might get used with it at some point it's the RS Pro btw

[DCM]

the bonded, should be fine, keep an eye on the thermal indicator, when you go to the 4.5, you will need to uncover the posts but leave the solder joint covered.

[Lowie]

I run a Tekin RS Pro in my offroad 4wd Predator.
By an accident one of the wires/leads of the capacitator broke off.
I re-soldered it this but this isn't very strong.

I do however have some capacitators left on an older ESC which I do not use any more.
it mentiones these details:
10V
+105°C
5600µF
M CE FM

could i use this instead?

[DCM]

they would work, but you might feel a small performance drop, but not as much as if you weren't running one at all.

[Lowie]

in the mean while, I found in the RS manual:
capacitator: TT3520
on the Tekin-website I learn that this capacitator has these data:
TT3520 Power Cap 16V 330uF Fx R1 series


so IMHO the older Capacitator seems to have a higher Capacity then the Tekin one.
5600µF vs 330µF
Or am I wrong? (I'm no expert in electronics)

[Randy p]

You're right that the capacity is lower. However that is a special electrolytic cap as it has superior refresh rate. You can use another cap but make sure it's at least 16v or so and 330uf or better. The old G11 caps were ace also.

[Urzrkymn]

Hi, I'm having difficulties calibrating my Tekin RS with my Futaba 3GR radio. I start the calibration process and the ESC finds neutral, I press full throttle - nothing, full reverse - nothing. If I reverse the throttle on my radio and try to calibrate the ESC finds neutral and full throttle but no reverse. Any ideas?

[DCM]

check your end points?

[caneye]

IIRC, you may need to set the neutral bandwidth to 0 (via the Hotwire).

Check your subtrim too.

i had the exact identical issue with my 3pjs. i couldn't figure out what the issue was. i had 3 different car profiles on the TX, 1 worked with the tekin while the other 2 didn't. i just couldn't calibrate the tekin when using those profiles. i ended up copying the setup profile that worked, as baseline.

[Urzrkymn]

End points are at 100%, trims are 0. I don't have the hotwire yet unfortunately.

[DCM]

try increasing the EPA and on the ESC, reduce the NW to LED's 1&2