Tamiya Durga DB01 EP Buggy (A cheaper 501X?)

[jimmy]

LOL exactly! I've changed the front tower screws to have a couple of Ti screws in there instead, with the interlocking between gearbox top and tower I think it'll be OK.. Nothing better than steel tho!

[mog ruith]

do you guys have any probs with ur arms always ripped apart?
i mean the part which is attach to the bumper
if so is there any remedy to this?

[mog ruith]

sorry guys i didnt mean rip apart
i meant fall apart

[sosidge]

Fall apart on their own or fall apart in a crash?

If they fall apart on their own then something is assembled wrong.

If they fall apart in a crash then this is something people have complained about, it should be partly solved by the soon-to-be-released-by-Tamiya aluminum suspension mounts, although I have never had this problem, which I think is because I put some small shims on the suspension shafts to take out the play.

[jimmy]

I had this once, at southport which is an incredibly bumpy and punishing track - I did about half a lap before the rear arm fell out. Like the sosidge man says, the car has a little slop at the inner hinge pins as standard - if you shim this so there is NO slop but it still moves freely then your suspension will not fall out.
Another thing to check is the plastic balls that go over the ends of the hingepins - these wear quite quickly, especially at the rear, and make it easier for the car to fall apart. If you put new balls on and shim it then it'll be fine. I've put metal balls on my new durga - though I'm not sure how easy these are to find (they are from the 501X). The alloy hinge pin blocks should also help but I've never seen a need for them and haven't bothered getting them on my new Durga.

[mog ruith]

thanks jimmy for the advice this is really getting annoying
especially today is my first time running this thing
and by the way i heard that this is a common prob
and tamiya is doin something bout it (releasing a new part that is)
but not sure if thats true i went to get parts just now at my local distributor for tamiya and he told me that new part to solve this problem is goin to be release soon sometime next month

[jimmy]

I don't know about new parts - other than the alloy blocks that is. If you shim it then I don't think it's even an issue. I used about 3 0.2mm shims each side to take up any slack. It's a real pain if it does happen since you can easily lose some small parts in the dirt, but other than that once before I shimmed it all up it's been OK for me.

[DCM]

the new parts will be the Tamiya hop-up alloy suspension holders which 3Racing already make.

[mog ruith]

you mean the alu caster block? #53961
is that any good? and by the way you used 3 shims on each side
for every arm? sorry for the dumb question this thing has taken lots of my time first the diffs and now this

[A.J. Gee]

Man oh man, things suck at the moment. I have somehow managed to melt two of my rear differential pulleys. It looks like i wont be running my buggy for at least a couple of weeks. Another thing that sucks is the fact that i have no other option but to order this part internationally. It really pisses me off that Tamiya USA have none in stock and that this particular part which is very crucial seems to be limited. Brushless+Lipo is the best thing since sliced bread, but can be a real bitch on Diffs. Dont get me wrong though, I will never go back to brushed motors or Nimh batteries.

[DCM]

I have run brushless and LiPo in it and it works fine, you just need to check and adjust the rear diff as needed, if you really are having problems, coar the end of the diff screw in threadlock, it should help it from self adjusting.

[A.J. Gee]

Originally Posted by DCM

I have run brushless and LiPo in it and it works fine, you just need to check and adjust the rear diff as needed, if you really are having problems, coar the end of the diff screw in threadlock, it should help it from self adjusting.

Yeah i think your right. The diff screw is most likely self adjusting every time i take it out for a go. The environment and the way i drive may be a contributing factor to my problem. I recently found a very fun place to drive it, but the only problem is all the sand there. My first couple of runs there, i didn't seem to be getting much sand or pebbles in the drive train, but my last couple didn't go too well as i managed to F-up the diffs pretty good and i also noticed more debris in the drivetrain.

[budgio]

I was just wondering if any one will try to cut their chassis to fit the 54040 motor heat sink? or do you have to buy the 54041 chassis?

[mog ruith]

Originally Posted by sosidge

Fall apart on their own or fall apart in a crash?

If they fall apart on their own then something is assembled wrong.

If they fall apart in a crash then this is something people have complained about, it should be partly solved by the soon-to-be-released-by-Tamiya aluminum suspension mounts, although I have never had this problem, which I think is because I put some small shims on the suspension shafts to take out the play.

hey sosidge the alu suspension mount is it part #54037 and 54038?
saw them at stella models and since its alu wont it break that easily since that is where the buggy will take some very hard impact?

[sosidge]

Originally Posted by budgio

I was just wondering if any one will try to cut their chassis to fit the 54040 motor heat sink? or do you have to buy the 54041 chassis?

You would be mad to try and cut the standard chassis to fit this part!

[sosidge]

Originally Posted by mog ruith

hey sosidge the alu suspension mount is it part #54037 and 54038?
saw them at stella models and since its alu wont it break that easily since that is where the buggy will take some very hard impact?

Well, it is nice to know that the parts are out but I personally won't be rushing out to buy them. Never broken the plastic mounts, even in a crash that was strong enough to bend the front suspension shaft and break the wishbone too!

Shims is a lot cheaper and seems to work.

All I have broken on the car from crashes are a couple of shock towers and a gearbox top (always my fault for landing on the roof) plus the aforementioned wishbone/suspension shaft (which was from a head on with a car going the wrong way around the track). Rear shock tower breakages are solved by mounting the wing further back so it doesn't hit the tower, front tower breakages are solved by staying on all four wheels - same thing applies to every 4wd car!

[gargadud]

Agree with you sosidge. shims and Fluorine Coated Suspension Ball (Item #53709) are the cure !
We had a big crash too bending the suspension shaft and braking the front arm but everything remained in place (suspension ball, bended shaft, shims).

[antnee]

i broke the plastic mount but it was quite a bad crash, still cos im tight I just used the ones I had from the rear (used a hop up there)

[mog ruith]

sosidge this maybe alot to ask but how do you fit the shims and how?
i know just slot it in the shaft but just wanting to be sure on how and where exactly, a pic will be nice. im a total noob at this you guys so im just needing some guidance here

[jimmy]

I think I got some photos but no idea where put them either end of the hinge pin before the ball - doesn't matter where really since it's not going to change the wheelbase, just tighten things up a little. I got some perfectly sized shims from Tamiya, but not sure of the part number - might be able to fit bigger ones in there? not sure..