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#141
14-01-2007
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great shell there jimmy
 how does it compare with other 4wd handerling wise?kev 
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#143
14-01-2007
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Raced it today - it was good! the setup I put on it when building was too soft, especially at the rear. I ended up on silver Associated rear springs and 30wt with biggest hole pistons and it was a lot better, nicely balanced. I am not used to a fixed 4wd but ran it like that all day. I will use the one-way diff next weekend at york.
The car was strong, didn't break anything apart from the spur gear - that was because one of my packs of cells had a lead that was too long (link wire) and it got positioned wrong under the shell.. took 3 teeth off I think. Luckily richard isherwood was there and had an 87t B4 spur which is apparently what some of the team drivers are running, and this also felt a lot better gear ratio.
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#144
15-01-2007
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Yes, Ive been slacking on the posts since signing up. Sorry. However i feel Ive got something worth while to add now. Havent seen this posted here yet ( a setup for the 501 by Satoshi Maezumi, found at
http://kentech.blogs.se/). Thanks for all the great info everyone.
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#145
15-01-2007
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Pretty much finished the buggy now, just the lexan bits left to trim and fit. First race this weekend....!
I was able to get hold of some TA05 alloy diffs; they fit fine and are hugely lighter than the standard units (although I've got the one-way installed at the front for the time being). Only thing to note is they have a slightly reduced length over the steel (approx. 18mm vs 15.5mm from the inner bearing face) and so I would suggest checking where the drive-shafts rest at full droop (the way I have my car set at the mo there's no chance of them falling out, just making sure people are aware). Couldn't resist attaching a piccy :TRF501X small.jpg
__________________
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#146
16-01-2007
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What weight are peoples cars when fully ready to run ? Mine was 1780g - brick !!!!!
 I guess it could be lightened with some Titanium screws, hingepins & turnbuckles. I'm not sure about the outdrives in alloy, let us know how they hold up.
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#148
16-01-2007
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What components are those ? I don't have anything super small or light weight but yours sounds a tad lighter
I havent measured it with the wing off, but my shell adds about 50g (thick paint! lol) nothing wrong with a bit of weight tho, makes it stick!
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#150
16-01-2007
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The Ti screws make a surprising difference - I wouldn't mind some, not really for the weight saving but because I want to replace the CS screws anyway. plus if water gets between the undertray and chassis the screws will rust down there.
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#152
16-01-2007
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Quote:
Whether the alloy outdrives are up to the job structurally is less clear, so you may well have a point here. I'll post if I have any problems in this regard.
__________________
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#153
17-01-2007
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Jimmy, can you give any pointers for the 501's first run out on the green stuff, Ive got it set for carpet, but just want to get it based for the green before its run.
The track is smallish with some big air and a few bumps and tight turns, dont know if the one way will be a good idea but open to suggestions.
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#154
17-01-2007
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I ended up on
front: 35wt #3 piston (ae numbers - smallest holes in other words) blue springs (AE) shocks inside at top, and middle on wishbone rear: 30wt #1 piston (again, going by AE numbers, so largest hole piston) silver springs (AE again) shocks 2nd from inside at the top, and outside at the bottom This was loads better than when I started the day - the rear end was way too soft. This felt pretty good. If you don't have the AE springs, then the tamiya ones are a similar balance but one step softer from what I can tell - and richard isherwood was running them with good results. I would be tempted to say go for the oneway - I didn't really have time to fit it and take photos of it (for the review) so i left it as standard. It felt a little weird to drive a fixed 4wd, but it was good. I will probably start this weekend on the one-way People say you can use the brakes when you have a fixed drive, but I just found I had to be more aggressive with the car, and putting the brakes on made it push wide. A centre one way would be a nice option and one should be out soon I think.
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#155
18-01-2007
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Thanks Jimmy for the tips, will give that setup a go, and see where I come out.
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#157
19-01-2007
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No shocks are leak free and work great.
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#158
19-01-2007
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Wheres it leaking mate?
The shocks are superb so somethings wrong, if its leaking at the bottom, have to examined the seals ? Do you have all the spacers in the cartridges ? The top one which installs into the body prior to the cartridge would be very important and hard to notice if its not there when you take it apart. There could be a split in your Oring (ooerr) would be hard to spot I guess. If its none of the above then I can't really suggest much, unless there is a malformed part due to a moulding error or something
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#159
19-01-2007
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The shocks are leaking at the bottom.
I am trying to get hold of a set of TRF501x o-rings but cannot find them anywhere. All the white spacers are in place and look fine, it must be an O-ring, I will just have to wait until spares become available 
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#160
19-01-2007
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Providing you are referring to the shaft o-rings, then there should be no need to wait - they should be 3mm - and used in many shocks, available in any model shop.. If you end up getting different ones, like racers edge, or kyosho etc, then probably best to change the orings in all the shocks for the most consistent performance - but only if youre fussy
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Tamiya
its beautifull
Linear Mode
