Serpent 811-Be Build Thread - Page 7

VillageIdiot · #**121** 18-12-2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by badger5

Don't know what happened to the pics, but I've edited the posts and included the pictures again and all now seems to be ok.

Lip, I think that you will need to angle those wires going to the batteries a bit instead of pointing straight up, they might hit the shell.
I also used heavy duty bullet connectors instead of the usual bird cage type, got mine from Demon Power Products. The link below shows what I'm on about.
http://demonpowerproducts.co.uk/prod...nnector-p-4838

Ive used them before my be worth investing. Ill see how it fits when the shell returns and report back.

badger5 · #**122** 18-12-2011

Now for the steering, again some real neat touches here. The steering bellcrank posts are at the same angle as the chassis kick up to reduce bump steer. These posts are attached to simple ali bracket that is machined at the required angle.
Alternative links between the bell cranks can also be purchased to alter the ackerman angle. Option 3 link is supplied with the kit.

A small carbon bracket then is fitted to the top of the steering bell crank assembly and then a small plastic brace is bolted to the chassis, which makes the front end all very stiff and secure.

The servo lever is plastic, with 23t, 24t and 25t inserts used for the different servo types. There has been some chat about this on rctech.net, with some failures reported. But apparently if you use some cyan to glue the insert into the lever then all should be good. Some people have tried to fit alloy servo arms, some without success. I glued in the insert, but will probably buy the alloy Serpent servo arm for security.

badger5 · #**123** 18-12-2011

With the shock build I had some problems fitting the pistons into the shock bodies as there were slightly too big. I sanded down the pistons with some 600 grit wet and dry by putting the shock shafts in a cordless drill, this ensured that the pistons were sanded down nice and evenly.
I was a bit surprised by this issue giving the quality of the kit, lets hope that the optional machined nylon pistons don't have this issue.

The rest of the shock build went well, the shock bodies are nicely coated and very smooth. The O rings material is the same as used in the diffs, are pretty soft and appear to be silicone. These should swell up nicely with the shock oil and give a good seal whilst also being nice and smooth.
The bladders fitted nicely in the shock caps and appeared to be quite tough, bleeding the shocks and setting rebound was nice and easy with the vent hole in the shock cap.

The shocks are also supplied with boots to cover the shafts etc, these seemed to nice and durable as well.

VillageIdiot · #**124** 18-12-2011

My Alu horn has been a treat

nice to see some better pictures than with an Iphone, got two build threads going, Sweet!

I have checked about my wires badger and shouldnt be a porblem, will find out next week for defo.

seeing your pics makes me want to build another kit

eyeayen · #**125** 18-12-2011

Rich some of your shots aren't working still. Great pics and build thread though. Shell coming along nicely. Will update you when nearing completion !

VillageIdiot · #**126** 18-12-2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by eyeayen

Rich some of your shots aren't working still. Great pics and build thread though. Shell coming along nicely. Will update you when nearing completion !

are you doing rich's shell? I will post mine when its back.

can you post pics of the shell at various stages?

badger5 · #**127** 18-12-2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by eyeayen

Rich some of your shots aren't working still. Great pics and build thread though. Shell coming along nicely. Will update you when nearing completion !

Yeah, don't know what's going on here. I edited the posts to re-attach the pictures and all was well, even checked it with my iPad. So now doing it again, hope this works.

JonyNitro · #**128** 18-12-2011

Nice build there

badger5 · #**129** 18-12-2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by LIP

Badger can I ask when you put the 3 phillips screws in the diff did one of the left or right catch the main diff gear? I ended up just using tweo screws to hold the bearing in.

Nope, no problems at all. All three used. You sure you don't have another problem as I think there should be quite a bit of clearance between the screw heads and the diff crown wheel?

Is the shimming right? Were both gearboxes affected with this or only one?

Ross · #**130** 18-12-2011

Hi fella, you may want to put a longer bolt through the top link on the shock tower end.

I've taken a picture of how mine is done, there was a problem with them undoing, even when thread locked.

Front and rear need doing.

Sorry,cars not the cleanest it could be

badger5 · #**131** 18-12-2011

Ross, I did hear about that issue and have ordered the longer bolts etc needed in case I have troubles. Cheers for the heads up though.

VillageIdiot · #**132** 18-12-2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by badger5

Nope, no problems at all. All three used. You sure you don't have another problem as I think there should be quite a bit of clearance between the screw heads and the diff crown wheel?

Is the shimming right? Were both gearboxes affected with this or only one?

may have been the notchy feeling of a new tight diff then, I will get the diffs in and when changing diff oil pop them in and see how it is.

the mesh was bob on.

VillageIdiot · #**133** 18-12-2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ross

Hi fella, you may want to put a longer bolt through the top link on the shock tower end.

I've taken a picture of how mine is done, there was a problem with them undoing, even when thread locked.

Front and rear need doing.

Sorry,cars not the cleanest it could be

which part am i looking at ross? the two 7mm nuts?

Ross · #**134** 18-12-2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by LIP

which part am i looking at ross? the two 7mm nuts?

See the yellow bearing on the diff out drive. Above and too the left you have the top link, on the back of its built in nut you have a silver 5mm nut and a longer bolt.

VillageIdiot · #**135** 18-12-2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ross

See the yellow bearing on the diff out drive. Above and too the left you have the top link, on the back of its built in nut you have a silver 5mm nut and a longer bolt.

bingo! thankyou!

ive just threadlocked them good until they work loose.

eyeayen · #**136** 18-12-2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by LIP

are you doing rich's shell? I will post mine when its back.

can you post pics of the shell at various stages?

Yes I am doing his shell. No I can't post images as it's half done and I'm not doing anything clever airbrushing wise. It's just neat masking and getting the fades right, nothing to see here, move along...

Ross · #**137** 18-12-2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by eyeayen

Yes I am doing his shell. No I can't post images as it's half done and I'm not doing anything clever airbrushing wise. It's just neat masking and getting the fades right, nothing to see here, move along...

nothing to see here, move along...