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#121
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Hi Guys,
Was also at Oswestry yesterday, first try with the one way, totally transformed it (was @45th at the first event, @25th yesterday). Sadly final was ruined when my pin in the UniJoint on the driveshaft came out and jammed on the hub! I've found it a strong car too, not much breaks, but even with hardened diff balls I find the rear diff is crackly after only a few runs! How much camber are most of you guys running on them by the way? Dave |
#122
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Looking for bumpy, low traction, dirt/clay track setup. Any ideas? SO
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#123
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My local track is a mixture of astro-turf and hard packed dirt (the astro-turf is only used on the face of the jumps). The track is fairly low grip and smooth but there are a couple of bumpy corners. The setup I posted was working very well, it might be a good starting point ![]()
__________________
Schumacher Cougar SV-Durango Dex410-Top Photon |
#124
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hi
i read in previous posts that some people running the plastic outdrives i've also done this in the past, and tested it 2 months with many many rebuildings, even between heats... i had nothing than problems with my project, run it in the rear, with the d-rings and thungsten carbide balls on the inner side every time the the diff gear was melted around the balls at this moment i run back the steel outdrives with hpi screw and spring inside now i'm going to test the alu ones, i've ordered the tamiya one and a 3racing one, i'm very curious what these things will do grtz |
#125
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Hi guys,
my 501x is running great, possibly the only thing I could do with it doing is not rolling so much when landing at an angle. By this I mean it goies well over bumps in a straight line, but compared to the best cars at my region, it is very easy to make it roll if it lands slightly tilted. Is there a setup change I can make to reduce this, say moving the dampers on the towers, or running less camber? Or is this something I need to learn as a driving technique? Dave |
#126
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You can move the shocks out on the wishbone to help prevent that, about -1.5 to -2 camber will also help the issue.
if the above dosnt help (it should) then you can always cut spikes off the outside row on the front tyres. |
#128
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#129
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The BJ4WE has similar weight distribution to the 501 and we use either green or silver associated springs on the front on dirt
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#130
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possibly even kit setup? The kit springs are similar to green rear and silver front.
blue would surely be too hard on dirt, at Tiverton i ran Tamiya springs, yellow (kit) on the front and red on the back (softest tamiya spring) |
#131
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Should I then stick with the AE silver rears? My current shock oil weight is 35f/30r. SO
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#132
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at tiverton i ran green rear springs with 30 weight oil, if you want to run silver, youl need to drop to 25 weight oil IMO.
green rear on dirt felt ace though! |
#133
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GOt a bumpy track, coming up on the regional circuit, and the stock setup that I normally run is far too bouncy, any hints as to what to try to calm things down a bit?
__________________
2 x TRF 415 MRE's 2 x TRF 501X's I'm TRF-Tastic me Come to the blue side and feel the love!!
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#134
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Please let me know alittle more about the track you are going to and I will try my best.
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#135
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Hi Woody the track is at Ipswich and consists of a mixed surface of grass and hard packed dirt (gets very dusty in the sun) some very big jumps/drop offs, and a lot of fast sections, coupled with the usual very tight bends. The circuit is very bumpy in places where it has been raced on.
Any help would be greatly appreciated Cheers.
__________________
2 x TRF 415 MRE's 2 x TRF 501X's I'm TRF-Tastic me Come to the blue side and feel the love!!
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#136
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I have done alot of practice on multi surface like grass and astro but not with dirt. I have done Tivy but that was a working process from start to finish. What I have been running is AE blue springs on the front with 35wtg oil and AE silver springs on the rear and 30wtg oil. I will get back to you about pistons as I cant remember. I do have the 1 way dif in and other than that I dont have any washers under the camber inner link blocks. middle positions on the inner and outer on the rear camber link and in the middle on the front. shock positions I have the front on the inner at the bottom and the middle at the top. the rear is in the inner on the bottom and middle at the top. only play around with the wheel base if the car is not pivoting and then make it shorter. If the car is still a little bouncy then change the piston to a smaller hole. Hope this helps. Good luck and hope you do well. Go 501. |
#137
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#138
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No sorry, that would be Ipswich Suffolk.
Woody, I have been running that setup pretty much from day one, but as the track has got more rutted the car has a nasty tendencie to bounce a bit, especialy the rear of the car.
__________________
2 x TRF 415 MRE's 2 x TRF 501X's I'm TRF-Tastic me Come to the blue side and feel the love!!
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#139
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I have found the new machined pistons to be 100 times better than the stock ones, a different world really!! Currently I am using the 1.4mm in the front with AE 35wt and a 1.4mm with one hole drilled to 1.5mm with AE 30wt in the rear. (Part# 53978) Use kit setting for the shock position's, works great on a bumpy track! |
#140
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Hello I'm running my 501X on a carpet track is anyone else ?. I could use some help and advice on setup. Have you used shock limiters ,oil wiegths, wheel base etc. Basically it's a flat track sometimes one jump with tight corners.
Thanks in advance ![]() Stan |
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