Setups

[restimax]

Originally Posted by Lowie

I tested my X11 yesterday on the Stokrooie-track and today again, but with the short Pushrod-mod.
It definitely made the car easier to drive and added a lot of steering!
It's a keeper for me

Hi lowie,
in the test you use a standard antisquat at the rear?
byez

[Lowie]

Originally Posted by restimax

Hi lowie,
in the test you use a standard antisquat at the rear?
byez

oops, is there a way then to change the anti-squat?

[KevLee]

Originally Posted by Lowie

yup, i indeed used a Pred-rear-toe-turnbuckle.
Might try the one thatMr Lee suggested or try mounting it under the crank.
That second option might as well be a solution for the very steep angle at which it is not so simple to mount that pushrod.
Would the functioning stay the same?

Hi Lowie, the problem with mounting it under the rocker (i find) is that as the wishbone travels up the pushrod doesn't stay as perpendicular to the rocker and so will make it softer... i find it makes the steering a bit vague. I'm not saying its not worth trying, just that it will be a different feel.

If you have no cone washers to mount it to the wishbone with you can use m3 nuts, one to bolt the screw to the wishbone and then one upside down on top of the balljoint... it might help with the clearance. Adams solution is the best though using the servo mounting bits.

On that rear balljoint i tend to run it as far inboard on the hub location slot as possible which stops the wheel touching, if you still have a slight problem take a little off with a dremel, theres plenty of meat on them and i don't think i've ever broken a joint in that position.

Antisquat... we have been playing with less antisquat but so far i think we have all ended back at kit standard.

[restimax]

@ kevlee

when i try to mount the pushrod on up the crank the suspension is not free.

@ lowie

for change the antisquat you must to lower from 1 mm the internal alu squat block, under the spur gear....for more info send a pm at nathan, because i have some problem with translation....

[KevLee]

Originally Posted by restimax

@ kevlee

when i try to mount the pushrod on up the crank the suspension is not free.

That will probably be because the balljoints are past there range of movement. I drill the hole through the wishbone at an angle similar to the normal mounting hole and use a cone washer below and above the balljoint and my suspension is totaly free.

Have you seen the other mounting method here?

http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19545

[Lowie]

I drilled the hole vertically just to keep the A-arm reversible as the stock ones do.
If you drill the hole in an angle, it' is only usable on one side.
That means that, when going to a competition, and you drilled similar holes in your spare A-arms, you can not use them on both sides anymore.

And YES, the solution with the servo-posts is definitly the best one. Since I haven't got any of those yet, I made my actual mounting .. but I can still adapt it with the servo-posts as soon as they arrive

[restimax]

i have drilled the wishbones vertically!
the method with servo post is a good idea, but is more different the lenght of 2 point (standard, and new) on the wishbones, with more differences on the drive....i hope.
the best is a new wishbones with new design and 3 point for mount the pushrod.

[Lowie]

mm, don't know.
I personally think that the servo-postmethod is the best way.
I might even say that new A-arms better not have a mounting point as they do now, or three ...
It would be easier to have one without the mounting points but with three holes. This would make them even lighter.
(with mounting points would mean 6 mounting points as the A-arms are reversible!)

[KevLee]

Originally Posted by Lowie

I drilled the hole vertically just to keep the A-arm reversible as the stock ones do.
If you drill the hole in an angle, it' is only usable on one side.
That means that, when going to a competition, and you drilled similar holes in your spare A-arms, you can not use them on both sides anymore.

And YES, the solution with the servo-posts is definitly the best one. Since I haven't got any of those yet, I made my actual mounting .. but I can still adapt it with the servo-posts as soon as they arrive

Point taken about keeping them reversable, I was just trying to point out the reason why the suspension isn't free. I tend to drill mine trackside as it only takes a second and they rarely break anyway.

[restimax]

i have try the system with servo mount, the work is good.....but....
if in the race the screw of the servo mount will losen the servo mount rotate on wishbones and born a big problem...
i have put a threadlock on the screw...but...

[Lowie]

well, I guess you can also add some CA-glue between the servo mount and the wishbone.
This will make a strong bond but if really needed can be broken (or cut) loose.

[Lowie]

Originally Posted by Lowie

Setup for Stokrooie (Belgium)
Dirt-track.
Conditions: sunny after some days of raining, 12°C
moist dirt, loose in the corners, bumpy.

* Front *
top mounting: no cone washer
bottom mounting: Upright in low position, washer onder Ball joint (*)
Camber: 1,5°
Caster: 1 washer behind
Shock: 40wt, 2 X 0.96 holes, no valve, 13,5mm clips, 5.5 spring (= blue)
short pushrod 23mm
height: 20 mm (**)
Toe: 0.5° OUT each
no roll bar
tyre: Losi 4WD Stud Red (Losa7282) ... gave a heavy steering car
Losi Blockhead Red (Losa7283) better in balance but less steering
standard front wing


* Rear *
upright in lower hole
Camber: 1,5°
Shock: 35wt, 2 x 0.96 holes, Precompr + silver (= white), Long shockshafts (aero?), middle position shock mount
Height: 23mm (**)
Toe: 2° IN each
tyre: Losi 4WD Stud (Losa7364)
large rear wing with half guerney
soft roll bar


* car *
Pred X11-08
short pushrod-mod
Stickpack(Lipo)-mod
Weight: (with 40gr in the front + 70 gr in the middle) fully equiped: 1640gr
ESC: Tekin RS Pro - (***)
Motor: LRP X11 6.5
Spektrum
schumacher blue inserts
tires: X11-rims but two inner rings cut away


(*) Front Upright slightly modded, so that the ball joint can also be mounted in a higher position and thus lowering the uprights position. (Credits go to Nathan )

(**) Height was ok, since the tracks had lots of holes and was very bumpy but I think he car can be lowered

(***) Tekin soft version 189
15 - 100 - 100 - 11 - BL-DL - 5 - 2 - Off - 78 - off

sorry for long quote, but it's a bit functional.

I went training today (this evening) on this dirt track and the car was'nt paefect anymore.
The track was a bit hard and with lots of holes, kinda "destroyed" by the lots of cars training in the last weeks.
I had to put less toe on the rear because the car was really jumpy on the long straight.

but, a question, how can I adjust the car on all those holes what the shocks are concerned. Should I go thicker on oil, stronger on springs ... a combination of those two?
I will try different things but thought any tips could help point me in the right direction.
thx in advance

[mattym0310]

Batley Super Cup: Slippy floor and carpet, plus some rippled mats.

Front

• Blue Spring
• Additional 57 hole in piston
• Oil 35wt
• ball joint done up on shock just showing thread
• push rod turnbuckle - 34mm - mounted on top of rocker
• top wishbone about in the middle (equal spacing front/rear)
• ride height - slightly lower than the back
• max droop
• Roll bar in long link (rear hole in wishbone)
• camber 1 deg
• Slight toe in
• Standard wing with 2mm spacer under rear mounting hole

Rear

• White/Silver spring with compensator spring
• lower mounting hole on wishbone
• Additional 57 hole in piston (standard one is about 57 also)
• 30wt oil
• Lower hole on the hub (high position)
• Roll bar in short link (rear hole in wishbone)
• wing forward half gurney
• toe-in 3 degs
• 1 deg camber
• ride height - wishbone level
• max droop

Extras

• Motor LRP x12 6.5 (20/72), LRP Sphere Comp ESC
• One-way shaft - three o-rings on brake bias
• Bumper cut down to improve ground clearance on landing jumps
• Cone washers on top of front hubs removed and replaced with two 1mm washers underneath the wishbone and 1 on top.
• Rear anti-roll bar lowered
• Schumacher Mini-pins - yellow compound with blue foams/inserts
• Cut the inner two rings off the surface of the rims
• Stick Lipo conversion (5000mah lipo set far forward as possible)

[mattym0310]

forgot to mention... car was dialed

[restimax]

Originally Posted by Lowie

I'm looking for some longer 3mm turnbuckles but have not found any yet

i have found tc5 associated turnbuckles...35 mm in titanium blue.

[Lowie]

And I have found some 35 and 38 mmtitanium Turnbuckles from Tamiya.

• 3x38mm: Tam 49175 and Tam 42119 (blue)
• 3x35mm : Tam 53528

[restimax]

Originally Posted by Lowie

sorry for long quote, but it's a bit functional.

I went training today (this evening) on this dirt track and the car was'nt paefect anymore.
The track was a bit hard and with lots of holes, kinda "destroyed" by the lots of cars training in the last weeks.
I had to put less toe on the rear because the car was really jumpy on the long straight.

but, a question, how can I adjust the car on all those holes what the shocks are concerned. Should I go thicker on oil, stronger on springs ... a combination of those two?
I will try different things but thought any tips could help point me in the right direction.
thx in advance

ride height is enought?
soft oil with stiffnes springs?

[KevLee]

Originally Posted by Lowie

sorry for long quote, but it's a bit functional.

I went training today (this evening) on this dirt track and the car was'nt paefect anymore.
The track was a bit hard and with lots of holes, kinda "destroyed" by the lots of cars training in the last weeks.
I had to put less toe on the rear because the car was really jumpy on the long straight.

but, a question, how can I adjust the car on all those holes what the shocks are concerned. Should I go thicker on oil, stronger on springs ... a combination of those two?
I will try different things but thought any tips could help point me in the right direction.
thx in advance

Try the rear hub low (upper holes), that helps chill the car out on high grip and bumpy tracks. It has a similar effect as raising the inner link on a conventional car. It will also take away some turn in pivot and give more steering on power. You do lose drive with it like that though so if its really slippy it may be no good.

Also i find 40 gramms under the fronts shocks is too much and it makes the car hang on too much out of the turn. I run 20g mostly.

A softer rear spring will calm the car down, i run yellow with the extra spring on the back and red on the front. So i'd suggest going back to 3 degree toe and going softer on the spring.

ride height i run the car with rear wishbones level and front slightly sagged (smiley face)

Hope this helps and gives you a start with things to try

[nikos2002]

Should be moving over to the X11 in the coming weeks, one question for Kevin - I didn't see yellow or red springs listed on the site or the manual. Can you please give me a little more info or part numbers? or are they another kind of spring. Thanks. Nick

[niggs98]

xtreme have started to colour code there springs.

from hard to soft the colours are white,blue,yellow red. xtreme do sell them either seperate or as a set. i will ask lewis for the part number