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  #1201  
Old 13-03-2008
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the CVD's are slightly shorter, I noticed the same issue's as you Dom, when I put the CVD's and 501X shocks, I had the 3Racing rear tower, som made a new upper peice and raised it 5mm and it cured it, handled fab too!!
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  #1202  
Old 13-03-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spoolio View Post
Do the new shocks still use the pop-on knuckle joint system or are M3 machine screws included for a "proper" fitting?
m3 screws are supplied in the kit,

Just waiting on my F&R alloy braces from stella then i,m all set.
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  #1203  
Old 14-03-2008
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Hey guys. I was wondering if someone could give me some advice for the best way to clean gears. (plastic) Its actually for my DF-03 that i am doing some maintenance on at the moment. It seems that i have a buildup of lithium grease gunked a bit in the rear Diff. Thanks guys.
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  #1204  
Old 14-03-2008
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lighter fluid or motor spray and a tooth brush? that or good ole soapy water
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  #1205  
Old 14-03-2008
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Thanks a lot Jimmy.
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  #1206  
Old 14-03-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tamiya Slave View Post
Hey guys. I was wondering if someone could give me some advice for the best way to clean gears. (plastic) Its actually for my DF-03 that i am doing some maintenance on at the moment. It seems that i have a buildup of lithium grease gunked a bit in the rear Diff. Thanks guys.
you can remove the bearings and soak em in hot water and washing up liquid to loosen it up, then motorspray after to remove residue.

Greasing up, it only needs a light amount of diff grease on each gear, to much and it gets impacted in the bottom of the teeth and flung around the gear case.
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  #1207  
Old 14-03-2008
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I appreciate the advice. When you say "washing up liquid" , do you mean like a liquid detergent that you would use to wash dishes?
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  #1208  
Old 14-03-2008
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yeah, thats the stuff, the stuff you put in the water to wash dishes!
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  #1209  
Old 14-03-2008
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Yeah thats what i soaked the gears in with extremely hot water. For the bearings i used some good old motor spray. Both worked very well. It felt good doing an entire strip down of my keen hawk last night, making sure everything was still in working order and then de greasing and re gearsing all the gears. I must say though, after owning a belt drive (Durga), i dont think i can ever go back to running shaft drive. Belt drive is smooth like butter and me likey a lot. Do you guys know for sure if the new schumacher buggy is gonna be belt driven?
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  #1210  
Old 15-03-2008
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The CAT SX will feature three belts afaik.
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  #1211  
Old 15-03-2008
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And if i recall, the losi xx4 is the only other competition buggy that features 3 belts?
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  #1212  
Old 15-03-2008
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Have any of you guys used ceramic balls for the Durgas Diff? And if so, does it make a difference?
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  #1213  
Old 16-03-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DCM View Post
the CVD's are slightly shorter, I noticed the same issue's as you Dom, when I put the CVD's and 501X shocks, I had the 3Racing rear tower, som made a new upper peice and raised it 5mm and it cured it, handled fab too!!
The Tamiya hop up cvd,s are giving me the same problem (when using the 3 racing rear tower)gone back to the dogbones for now.When you said you made a new upper piece what did you do ? Thanks in advance
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  #1214  
Old 16-03-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by budgio View Post
The Tamiya hop up cvd,s are giving me the same problem (when using the 3 racing rear tower)gone back to the dogbones for now.When you said you made a new upper piece what did you do ? Thanks in advance
I had some carbon towers custom made with the shock mountings 4mm higher up, I can sell them for £30 the pair, PM me if anyone is interested, they have never been used, I just don't think I am going to need them, quite happy with the kit parts at the end of the day.
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  #1215  
Old 17-03-2008
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Default All bits here now!!!!!

Yippee, all my shiny new bits are now safely in the garage, 3racing front and rear hinge pin mounts, #54028 Hop-Up dampers as well as some spare belts and slipper pads. Oh yeah, and a complete spare car just to be safe.

This may sound extravagant but I've still got loads of change from what I would have spent on one B44.

Now then, any recommendations to what weight oil to put in my lovely new dampers? I think I will run the blue and silver Team Associated springs as I've got some spare ones in the pit box.

Really looking forward to Worksop next weekend now.
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  #1216  
Old 17-03-2008
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carpet, I run 40wt front and 35wt in the rear, go down 5wt all round for outdoors.
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  #1217  
Old 18-03-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tamiya Slave View Post
Have any of you guys used ceramic balls for the Durgas Diff? And if so, does it make a difference?


Bump ity bump
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  #1218  
Old 18-03-2008
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I've been running the kit balls and though ceramic balls are a nice upgrade, I don't think its as important as it was on the original 501X - these larger diameter diffs with more balls don't put as much strain on each ball. (!) also the sealed drivetrain helps.
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  #1219  
Old 18-03-2008
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Quote:
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carpet, I run 40wt front and 35wt in the rear, go down 5wt all round for outdoors.
Thanks, which pistons for indoor racing? There is a choice of No3 (1.3mm) or No4 (1.4mm) in the damper kit.
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  #1220  
Old 18-03-2008
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try the 1.3mm in the front and 1.4mm in the rear, if it feels a little stiff and uncomplying, try the 1.4mm in the front, thats what I use, but it does like to pivot on the front then, which I like.q
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