TRF501X build

[Dunc]

Wow, what a flurry of posts! Clearly I'm a bit slower than most

[bigred5765]

other than that you need a specialist screw remover kit and small drills and a bench drill (big job)

[Elliott Hopkins]

3 Racing screws are ... and what is the technical term now ... the bollocks. I have a set in my DI. Sleek sexy and they feel as hard as nails.

Elliott.

[Dunc]

Originally Posted by jimmy

I applied proper man-pressure on it! haha

I'm sure no-one doubts your manliness, Jimmy! Like you say, just shoddy screws, which seems to be quite a prevalent trend these days. Or is it just me?.....

[jimmy]

well, I made sure the rest were ok, and stripped another in the process.. it is really just the counter sunk screws into metal that are the problem. The button heads are OK.
Really peed me off has that though, it was all looking so nice, now I have a chewed up car

[DCM]

Jim, drill the head off, 3mm, or a 3.1mm drill bit, that should pop the head off, then you can get to the other side and remove the screw with mole-grips.

[telboy]

p.s. anyone want to buy a car I can't take apart ?

I'll give you a tenner for it! after all its knackered now.

I had the same problem with my 415msx. I put all the screws in the same way, tightened them lightly and just 'pinched' them tight. came to remove some for the same reason (to fit an undertay and underbody) and they were STUPIDLY tight and two screws stripped big time. I too was gutted and the only way to do it wasthe dremmel technique . I hadn't run the car so it wasn't that they'd worked tight from vibration etc. So I ended up with some little marks on the lovely new chassis.

fortunatley you cant see them now because of all the other scratches on there.

[jimmy]

same! I just pinched them tight, nothing silly.. but removing is another story! its like king kong broke into the house and tightened the hell out of them - and ran off laughing.

All three stripped heads are probably screws I dont need to use for now anyway, I have the undertray half-fastened on which should do. but still, I will have to deal with it at some point

[DCM]

Top tip, drop some blue threadlock (from your autoparts store) and don't nip them, just bottom the screws out. Probably the thread is a little harsh in the bulkhead and screws a little soft.

Give you a Tenner and a box of maltesers.....

[bender]

I had the same issues with the countersunk screws on both my MSX and Evo 5 too!

Yes, the standard c'sunk screws are crap (the recess for the driver is too short), but you'll also find its due to the steel screws "galling" with the allloy pieces. ie: they lock together, (I think galling is the right word, it's been a long time since I've had to remember this stuff).

I put some better quality screws on my car as soon as I got it, plus I put a little bit of silicone lube on the threads before screwing them in - this seems to help with the galling.

I found that if all else fails, a dremel with a round milling bit will remove enough of the head for you to pull the part off, or the vibration from the dremel will eventually loosen it.

[telboy]

Originally Posted by dcm

Give you a Tenner and a box of maltesers.....

jimmy I'll give you a tenner....no, make that £10.25 and a whole box of celebrations!!!

BEAT THAT!

[TRF_Tastic]

Jimmy thanks for the tip about the B4 spring set, ran it last night on carpet with the B4 springs Red rear and blue front and it was magic, stuck just like it was a touring car, but a bit baggier!!! Anyone wanna buy my spare Pred? As this car is the nuts!!!

[jimmy]

nice one mate! red rear sounds a bit harsh I have to say, did you try different one on the rear like silver, gray, blue etc? I think red are super hard ?
Either way, if it works then thats cool. I guess without an anti-roll bar it might need something a bit stiffer, especially if its not a bumpy track.
Anyway, looking forward to running this car, it looks great

[Fabs]

Originally Posted by bender

I had the same issues with the countersunk screws on both my MSX and Evo 5 too!

Yes, the standard c'sunk screws are crap (the recess for the driver is too short), but you'll also find its due to the steel screws "galling" with the allloy pieces. ie: they lock together, (I think galling is the right word, it's been a long time since I've had to remember this stuff).

I put some better quality screws on my car as soon as I got it, plus I put a little bit of silicone lube on the threads before screwing them in - this seems to help with the galling.

I found that if all else fails, a dremel with a round milling bit will remove enough of the head for you to pull the part off, or the vibration from the dremel will eventually loosen it.

"galling" as you call it only happens when both materials are the same, which isn't the case here. And if you use a decent driver, there isn't any problem with the steel screws. I've been running TRF cars for 6 years now and stopped stripping them screws when I got a Hudy driver.

[stefke]

stripped one screw .... with a new Hudy driver

[MattW]

I suspect the "problem" might actually be that they have matched the screw head angle to the countersink angle on the chassis.

Now obviously this is what you should do - but it does mean that the screw will grip the carbon very tightly - which is why you struggle to get them out!!

[jimmy]

Originally Posted by Fabs

"galling" as you call it only happens when both materials are the same, which isn't the case here. And if you use a decent driver, there isn't any problem with the steel screws. I've been running TRF cars for 6 years now and stopped stripping them screws when I got a Hudy driver.

The fact is that the screws took a LOT more force to remove than insert. The screws are poorly designed for the task, the hex is too shallow. You shouldn't gloat because you do not have this problem, many of us have quality drivers with a good fit, but that much force running through a shallow hex is not good. I unscrewed every screw last night with great care but still stripped one more.

There is a problem, since I am not thick but still managed to strip three screws - obviously with your many years of ownership of these "unique" screws, you are accustomed to their frailties, but I was not. I suspect other people will have the same problem (read this thread) so it's part of the review to mention when something is a problem. And they are indeed a problem - for whatever reason. Perhaps if Tamiya included a Hudy driver (I see nothing wrong with mine!) the we wouldn't be having this conversation.

[jimmy]

Originally Posted by MattW

I suspect the "problem" might actually be that they have matched the screw head angle to the countersink angle on the chassis.

Now obviously this is what you should do - but it does mean that the screw will grip the carbon very tightly - which is why you struggle to get them out!!

Thanks matt
Would that not happen on the screws into plastic also though ? There was no problem at all there - but maybe those parts are just not quite as tightly installed? I tightened all the parts the same, but most of the ones into alloy were quite hard (or virtually impossible) to remove

[DCM]

the plastic has some 'lubricating' qualities, where as the Carbon Fibre will grip the screw head, as the name suggest, fibres are aligned and will resist being turned the other way.

[jimmy]

These are all in the countersunk chassis I mean dcm, it is just things like the servo mounts (plastic), versus things like the alloy bulkheads. but all butted up against the carbon fibre

Anyway, drove it in the kitchen for the first time tonight! yay!
I am impressed with the bluebird servo I have to say, its rock steady and very quick - not as quick as my 2123 but quick enough.