TLR 22 Build and Set-ups

[learnerdriver]

Originally Posted by sunbeam

Losi 22, what a heap of crap !!

Where the hell are you meant to put your electrics ??????????

I can't even fit my Tekin RS on the ESC plate !!!!!!!! and thats a small ESC !!!!!!!!!!!

Now the RX has to go over the motor and all the wires that run from the ESC to the motor have to be bunched up with the motor wires, ESC RX wire and arial !!!!

Just crap.

Does anybody want to buy my car? I've only built it, nothing else at all £175

were you running a full size servo ?

[reg]

i fitten mine with a full size servo and a 2007 lrp sphereit is tight but hay ho the car is great

[Ross]

Originally Posted by stegger

Adjust it to the track , let it slip for a couple of feet. Make sure your diff is set correctly first though and with it being new adjust it after you have run it

Originally Posted by reg

you will need to do it tighter than that,iv got about 5mm showing

Thanks guys, i'll do both, thighten it up abit, and adjust at the track


Ross

[Gnarly Old Dog]

Originally Posted by ianjoyner

Anyone find the front spindle carrier binds slightly on the hinge screws, and the suspension isn't quite free? The inside of the wishbone is free, but the outside just binds slightly, so it won't drop under it's own weight. The rear is great very little play and free.

Yup - I found that also. I put it down to the black coating on the king pin screws - but also, like Reg has said, you could carefully open up the holes a smidge.
I ended up taking the coating off the screws with a piece of 600grit wet'n'dry - just so they'd drop a bit easier under their own weight.

[OldTimer]

If anyone is unsure on filling and setting up there shocks as there is no detail in the manual, i found this from the Losi 8 manual spot on as the shock design is the same.

Ensure the Shaft is fully extended when filling the shock.

Fill the Shock Body with ??wt. Shock Oil until the Oil is to the top of the Body.

“Work” the Shock Shaft up and down a times. This will release the air bubbles trapped beneath the Piston. Place the filled Shock, in the upright position, off to the side for a few minutes until the air bubbles escape from the Oil.

Once all the air bubbles are out of the Oil, gently place the Shock Bladder onto the Shock as shown. Some Oil should “bleed” from the Shock.

Screw the Shock Cap onto the Body until some resistance is felt.

Slowly push the Shock Shaft up. This will bleed excess Oil from the Shock.

Tighten the cap all the way down using the shock tools included in your kit.

Move the Shock Shaft up and down. The Shaft should be easy to push up into the Body of the Shock. If increased pressure is felt towards the top, there is to much oil in the Shock. Loosen the Shock Cap and “bleed” the Shock as done previously.

[Bob_Zahn]

Here in Ontario Canada we have a number of indoor offroad tracks that have carpet surface with wood jumps.

I was prepared to buy the new Xcelorin 96mm stubby battery for my 22 but they are currently on backorder with Horizon USA so I'm now considering the Xcelorin saddle pack battery. The more I read about your success with running more weight in the car makes me more inclined to buy the heavier saddle pack batteries now. Any recommendations on this train of thought. I realize with the smaller 96mm battery I will have more options to add or reduce weight as needed but if you are adding 150+ grams of weight to the car with the heavier saddle packs batteries that would require me to add 250+ grams to the car if I'm using the lighter 96mm battery.

Thoughts?

[Gnarly Old Dog]

Originally Posted by Bob_Zahn

Here in Ontario Canada we have a number of indoor offroad tracks that have carpet surface with wood jumps.

I was prepared to buy the new Xcelorin 96mm stubby battery for my 22 but they are currently on backorder with Horizon USA so I'm now considering the Xcelorin saddle pack battery. The more I read about your success with running more weight in the car makes me more inclined to buy the heavier saddle pack batteries now. Any recommendations on this train of thought. I realize with the smaller 96mm battery I will have more options to add or reduce weight as needed but if you are adding 150+ grams of weight to the car with the heavier saddle packs batteries that would require me to add 250+ grams to the car if I'm using the lighter 96mm battery.

Thoughts?

Spot on thinking

I think the combination of the TLR4151 mid car weight system combined with some Rudebits under-Lipo weights and/or their new side pod weights will really suit your surface and conditions - assuming you're going to build it in mid config of course.

We have been adding 75-100g under saddle LiPos in testing (our Saddles weighed 300g) so off course, with the small lipo we'll be looking to add further ballast as the grip comes up.

We were running at approx 1700 - 1750g in testing and given that the car can be built to run at 1500g with no weight and the stubby Lipo, that probably gives you an indication of how much we've been adding in total.
Hope this helps

[jimmy]

I used some Tamiya 800 grit paper and 12000 grit cloth to polish the kingpins a little - made things a lot better.
Only problem so far was one of the 6mm screws in the first stage was made wrongly and I had to source another.
So far its looking pretty good
Are these inner front hinge pins steel?

[jimmy]

Ok, what's going on here

[Chopster]

Originally Posted by jimmy

Ok, what's going on here

You've taken an 'arty' black and white photo?

Seriously, think I read that this can happen, just use a dremel to sand off the underside of the support... mine seems ok, think it depends on what servo you are using?

[Bob_Zahn]

Originally Posted by Gnarly Old Dog

Spot on thinking

I think the combination of the TLR4151 mid car weight system combined with some Rudebits under-Lipo weights and/or their new side pod weights will really suit your surface and conditions - assuming you're going to build it in mid config of course.

We have been adding 75-100g under saddle LiPos in testing (our Saddles weighed 300g) so off course, with the small lipo we'll be looking to add further ballast as the grip comes up.

We were running at approx 1700 - 1750g in testing and given that the car can be built to run at 1500g with no weight and the stubby Lipo, that probably gives you an indication of how much we've been adding in total.
Hope this helps

Thanks for the quick reply. I will look for some saddle packs for now and I can always buy the 96mm down the road if I need it for other tracks or surfaces. I do plan to build my car mid motor. I checked on the status of the weight kit from TLR and Horizon USA is saying availabilty in July!

I can add regular square lead weights on the transmission. Do you have a picture of where they are installed? I also have a source for some thin brass weights for the battery tray an will look for something in the range you provided. The track I'm starting on is on the smaller side so it should be more manageable to get the car to handle than if the track was big and open.

[reg]

Originally Posted by jimmy

Ok, what's going on here

looks like you might not have the servo right down on the servo mount,or you need more spacers on the servo,my screw was the same,the one that goes into the posh new steering thing

[OldTimer]

Mine was the same with a savox servo, i just removed a bit of material from under the support, also used 3mm of spacers to make all the links parallel.

[jimmy]

Ok I've fixed it now, I shaved some off the bulkhead and probably too much off the ballcup (watch it break as soon as I drive it) oh well - it was pretty smooth until that

Servo is flat to the bottom and I've got the manual suggested shims - but the link is too high anyway, wouldn't matter how far forward/back the servo was, it will always hit the bulkhead. (well, until I've shaved lots off)

[DCM]

Anyone have a Rear motor setup? Don't want to have to buy saddle packs.

Cheers!

[Gnarly Old Dog]

Originally Posted by jimmy

Ok I've fixed it now, I shaved some off the bulkhead and probably too much off the ballcup (watch it break as soon as I drive it) oh well - it was pretty smooth until that

Servo is flat to the bottom and I've got the manual suggested shims - but the link is too high anyway, wouldn't matter how far forward/back the servo was, it will always hit the bulkhead. (well, until I've shaved lots off)

I think the problem lays with the ball cup. Certainly the supplied one can be problematic with hitting the servo case with a Spektrum S6070.
I used Losi JRXS ball cup LOSA6017 which is a lot lower profile and it just clears the underside of the bulkhead without having to dremel anything.

Famous last words Jimmy but don't worry too much about the strength of the front bulkhead - I did dremel lots off on the prototype and I hit some things pretty hard without any problems

As for the Front hinge pins - sorry but I'm not sure of the actual material - just that they are Ti Nitrate coated I believe.

[Gnarly Old Dog]

Originally Posted by DCM

Anyone have a Rear motor setup? Don't want to have to buy saddle packs.

Cheers!

Sorry DCM - the only times I ran the rear car, it was pretty much just with my mid car shocks - I did run a Silver front spring instead of the greens that I normally ran with the mid car but I also ran the same white rear springs.

Roll centres I didn't mess with - but for the record, I ran in position 1 on the front inner (long link) and position 2 (outer) on the rear so it was short. I also moved the rear outer ball stud on the hub in one row to the outer hole in the middle row (if that makes sense)

I'd start with 4 hole 55 front pistons with kit oil (27.5wt) and go to 6 hole 55s in the rear with 30wt.

Never got the chance to play with 4 hole pistons but I think they'll be good in the front for sure - not maybe the ticket for our tracks in the rear though but I do hope to get to play with them at a later date.

Rear car was totally sweet to drive - super lush over the bumps and during the test, I managed a lap that was only 0.3s slower than my fastest with the mid car that we had done hundreds of laps with - so a promising start for sure.

HTH

[Bob_Zahn]

Your setup sheet has lighter oil (25wt) in the front when using 6 hole pistons and 27.5wt with 4 hole pistons. I think i know the answer on why but could you humour me with your explanation?

[PaulUpton]

Another thing to watch for, shock collars, screwed mine on, came to adjust them and they have gone solid, couldn't move them at all, all solved with a spray of motor cleaner, just a strange one

[Gnarly Old Dog]

Originally Posted by Bob_Zahn

Your setup sheet has lighter oil (25wt) in the front when using 6 hole pistons and 27.5wt with 4 hole pistons. I think i know the answer on why but could you humour me with your explanation?

The 6 hole pistons we used were 56s - the 4 hole I'd suggest with 27.5wt would be the 55s.
The reason being is that upon reflection, I'd say now that we needed to go up in pack on the front end from where we were during testing because the car could become a little grabby on the front end on indoor carpet when the grip comes up. Our initial testing was outdoors during the winter when grip was generally lower - I think 4 hole 56s would be too much pack for our circuits over here but the 55s would possibly give a good starting point and give you the option of going further up in pack if needed or down in pack if you needed the front end to work a bit more actively over ruts and bumps.

To be honest - I think we achieved a pretty reasonable 'starting' set up for the mid car during our testing but I'm sure that now the car is out, people will develop it and hone the set up and go faster - I'd not say we were perfect but we ended up with a very consistent and balanced car that as easy to drive.

Was that the answer you were expecting?