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#81
05-02-2009
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Hi Stu,
Thats good to hear, but how many tracks have you tried it on? My guess is when you go out doors on dirt you would use a diff or spool? 
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#82
05-02-2009
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Most people run a one way everywhere Neil.
Don't think the centre one-way has been out of my ZX5-SP since I put it in on building the car in 07! Never seen anybody run a spool in the front in off-road, not sure it would be great over the rough stuff. Actually to show how robust the ZX5 transmission is the car has run since October 07 when I built it without EVER having to change a diff gear, pinion gear or reshim. I'm quite hard on transmissions and have been using 5.5 and 6.5 brushless the whole time on everything from slick food floors to super grippy carpet. A bit of an aside I know but praise where praise is due!!!!! Last edited by RogerM; 05-02-2009 at 05:01 PM. Reason: Forgot to state how robust the ZX5 transmission is since we are nearly on the subject!
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#83
05-02-2009
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Hi Roger,
I keep forgetting we talking offroad, but i am sure we tried spools years ago and they worked. still i think the praise due is to you for building your diff properly. I am trying to find out if a centre one way is possible, what one do you use on your SP?
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#84
05-02-2009
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Never even heard of a spool in off road! Rog is right though, everyone I know with the zx5 runs centre one way. Mine's been in for 3 years now...
__________________
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#85
05-02-2009
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I use the genuine Kyosho bits as per the manual ....
I have been thinking about ways of taming a one-way diff and have a few ideas .... watch this space!!! If I can get that to work then I'll give the FS a go. As for building the diff properly I have to say the Kyosho diffs are brilliant straight out of the box other than the main diff balls in the kit. Both ends of my ZX5-SP and my 2 RB5s have all Kyosho diff parts other than Atomic Carbon thrust race balls. Stock diff & thrust plates, Kyosho ceramic diff balls and stock unmodified hardware. The trick to building the Kyosho diffs is simple .... good grease and don't tighten them up too much from the start!!!! I normally try to set the diff to just slip when the out drives are held on an old pair of scissors and turn between finger and thumb. Make sure you shim the diff so there is very slight backlash between pinion and crown wheel when you try to twist the crown wheel away from the pinion. This may feel a little "notchy" when brand new on the bench but trust me, when running the pinion and crown wheel mesh will try to part in a similar way as the teeth climb up each other under load .... if it's loose when new it will quickly wear! They soon bed in and feel great, should take no more than 2 runs to be quiet and smooth, if so then maybe you have them mesh too tight! Run the car for a few seconds off the ground with one wheel held to settle the parts. Run the car for about 2 minutes being gentle with the throttle then adjust to the final setting (hold one wheel and spur, adjust until you need proper effort to get the diff to slip when turning the other wheel between index finger and thumb. There you go, the perfect sliky smooth free spinning diff that never seems to need further adjustment. If you put a little grease on the diff case joints prior to final assembly there is no way to get dirt in and thus everything lasts forever! Probably need to clean and re-grease the diffs no more than every sixth meeting (about twice a year as the 4wd car only gets used for regionals and nationals ...... the RB5 being so brilliant to drive I always want to run that at any other meeting)! I'd have to say the only thing to compare with the quality of the Kyosho shocks is their diffs!! Both the best I have come across in over 2 decades of RC racing! A little off topic but hey .... might be useful for somebody building an FS as a first K' car!
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#86
11-02-2009
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Quote:
Even though I am a bit concerned about the one-way issue I have aquired a conversion set and will be building it up from my spare ZX5-SP (bought for spares but as nothing much breaks never opened) over the next few days. I was wondering if you were running the full kit set-up on the car, including front and rear anti-roll bars? I intend to build the car up on kit settings to compare with my season old (= season of development) ZX5-SP but my guess is that it will end up on much stiffer springing very early based on your comments! As all my rear springs are the original (longer) type I have ordered a set of silvers in the new shorter length but other than that I'm a bit stuck for rear springs (although now with the shorter shock bodies on the rear Losi springs should be a reasonable fit and at least will allow me to determine what sort of rates are required!!)
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#87
11-02-2009
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Lazer ZX5 FS conversion kit Product Code: KYLAW38 
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#88
15-02-2009
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After last weekend and being 2 seconds down from the leaders I was very upset! What ever I did last week it just wouldnt keep up.
Going into today I was very doubtful. Has a set of eyes outside the box from a very good friend and he had a bit of a fiddle before racing and WOW. Car felt very good. I wasnt on form today so I am very sorry but looking at lap times it was just as quick as Mossy with the Cat. Made alot of mistakes today so that let the car down. Really strange going from last week to this but we will have to see what happens next.
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#89
16-02-2009
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Quote:
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#90
16-02-2009
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I feel the biggest difference was made when i decided to cut a lot of the gurney on the rear wing and to add spacers on the turnbuckle links of the front hubs. Gonna try a completely cut off wing like Stu has been running next week end.
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#91
16-02-2009
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Woody, Fabs ...... can you please let me know what set-up you guys ended up with.
Hopefully will have mine out at Coventry this coming weekend (if I can find the time to build it!!!)
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#92
16-02-2009
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Quote:
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#94
17-02-2009
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I have been working out what is different between the SP and FS, in addition to the LAW38 conversion pack and there are a couple of points if you want to build a TRUE FS.
1) rear wishbone inner hinge pin mounts LA271 are specific to FS (not sure the difference so if anybody can tell me great! I can not get these parts in the UK at the moment) 2) rear hubs are the UM519 parts from the RB5 worlds rear end, standardisation at last...  3) the rear universal swingshafts are the 62.5mm ones from the original RB5 (UM510). Apart from that there are a couple of minor changes (mainly including option parts like the steel pivot balls in the kit) but nothing that will effect the on track performance. Hope this info is useful to somebody and that somebody can tell me the difference between the LA271 and normal hinge pin mounts, if I find out first I'll let you all know!
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#95
17-02-2009
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Right, just found the info .....
The new mounts are 2mm wider between hinge pin centres, this keeps the same toe / antisquat obviously but does increase the width of the car by 1mm per side. The longer driveshafts are used to make sure that the dogbone doesn't come out of the diff on full droop. The rear hubs have the hinge pin hole higher (was the top hole when the original hubs had all 3 in). Right then what will this little lot do to the handling of the car? Firstly the change to hub position will bring the wishbone outer hinge pin hight nearer the axle centre line. Combine this with the 3mm drop in height of the diffs on the FS verses previous ZX5 models and it means that your driveshaft and wishbone are much nearer parrallel at all points in the normal range of suspension travel, this will result in less plunge for the inner end of the driveshaft (more so when you consider the extra 1mm of engagement), freeing the rear end up under motion .... should result in more consistent grip as the car rolls around in the corners. Also this will produce a more parrallel relationship between the top link and the wishbone compared to the SP rear end whos hub effectively used the middle of the 3 holes in the original hub. The result of all this will be a car with much more, and more consistent, rear end side bite than the SP. I am going to try and machine up some inner mounts to the correct spec in time for the weekend but I'd not hold out too much hope. Will let you all know when I find out a little more.
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#99
17-02-2009
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Quote:
I know some of the USA guys are running the LAW36/LAW37 brackets with the inserts reversed to give the same width increase as the LA271 mouldings but still have the ability to tune the geometry.
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