B44.2.....

[Big G]

the new revised arms have webbing at the rear where that little lump is the hinge pin goes into. Initially I thought the plastic was slightly different. perhaps more carbon (b4 style) ish than the original ones. I'm not 100% on this theory now though.

the 1 and 2 on the arms have been there for as long as I can remember and isn't related to the revision.

[Jamie B4]

Have you built yours yet gaz just building up to mine

Any build issues or pretty much same as B44.1

Any hotups required

J

[Big G]

yeah I built mine on the 26th of October

I fitted a spare vented slipper plate to the VTS as I had one in my box. Otherwise it's standard. Probably the usual '44 options we're use to at a guess.

The only option bits I have on the .1 are the vented plates and the alloy front tower support

[Ron Burgundy]

guess the issue is, when you order new arms, be sure to mention that you want the gen2 arms with webbing, as like I found, you will receive the old style. Even shops dont know about it and were not told. It was news to the AE Distributor here he said... quite strange

[KRob]

AE mentions the update in the features for the car

The problem you might find is that the front w/bones have kept the same part number as it is a rolling change. This happens quite often with a variety of manufacturers so unfortunately the only way to differentiate is to physically look at them.

[neiloliver]

Has anyone had issues with the small o-rings under the small screws in the shock cap? These seem far too soft to me and tend to stretch as the screw is rotated and try to squirm their way out from under the screw head. I think the o-rings should be harder or maybe replaced by a fibre gasket type of washer?

Other than that I had a 3/8 CS screw missing, one hinge pin supplied too long (I had to dremmel it down to the right length) and the instructions have a couple of errors (i) the 2mm gap for the slipper nut on page 10 and the lack of explanation on page 17 to show how the battery tray mounts are fixed. Nothing major but it looks like no-one sanity checked the instructions.

it is Weird having Hexes on the rear of an Associated car. Just wish all my wheels has hexes!

I just need a set-up now!

[Freakypen]

Hi - yeah I had the same issues with the shock cap o rings and the suggested slipper setting- but all my hinge pins etc were fine. If you download the B44.2 instruction manual from the Team Associated site- there are revisions like telling you how to fit the battery straps etc.

[Richard Lowe]

The little bleed screw o-rings are... fun

I've found you only just have to nip the screws up to the point of the o-rings squirting out of the hole, the shocks won't leak and they won't come loose. No need to crank them down as tight as they will go

[Fatal1ty]

No need for the o-rings at the bleeding screw. Only use the screw with a bit loctit, and you got no problems with sealing. No problems so far with leaking, or to much air!

[Howler]

I seem to be suffering front spring retainers snapping. Done two in two meetings now. They're snapping at the bottom of the lightened bit. Are there any other spring retainers that will fit the big bores?

Other than that, the car is flying, got 3rd yesterday against a strong field.

[Steven Forster]

Originally Posted by Howler

I seem to be suffering front spring retainers snapping. Done two in two meetings now. They're snapping at the bottom of the lightened bit. Are there any other spring retainers that will fit the big bores?

Other than that, the car is flying, got 3rd yesterday against a strong field.

Have you raced a B44/B44.1............if so how does they compare to the 44.2 ???

cheers

[gazhillAE]

Originally Posted by Richard Lowe

The little bleed screw o-rings are... fun

I've found you only just have to nip the screws up to the point of the o-rings squirting out of the hole, the shocks won't leak and they won't come loose. No need to crank them down as tight as they will go

Ditto

[Howler]

Originally Posted by dexter24

Have you raced a B44/B44.1............if so how does they compare to the 44.2 ???

cheers

Nope, all i can say is none of them have beaten my 44.2 yet

[Gazzabruv105]

Hi all, finally got some time to start my B44.2 build. This is my first ever build and got the diffs built tonight. All pretty straight forward and instructions pretty straight forward so far. When putting the bevel diff gear and drive pinion in the gearbox casing, the manual states to put a drop of diff lube on them. Instead I have put a generous fingernail sized lump of CV Lith-Moly grease as this is what I use in my Ten-SCTE when I maintain it.

Can anyone clarify that this will be ok with the B44.2 as my only concern is that the diff gear and pinion are plastic whereas the gears in my Ten-SCTE are metal.

I am pretty sure that it will be ok but if anyone has any thoughts, then please put me right. Cheers.

[Howler]

Yeah, i's think that would be fine. Check for wear on your furst diff rebuild, but i doubt that grease would cause any. Lithium based greases are normally safe to use on plastics.

[Gazzabruv105]

Cheers for the super fast response. Gonna do a bit more tonight when I get home and 5he kids are asleep.

[discostu]

Molly grease can contaiminat the diff and cause the diff to wear quicker that is why diff lube is recomened

I would suggest you build the car as per kit using the specified lubes in the correct place thread lock where recomened then there will be no tears.

Half the problem you read on these threads is due to people thinking they know best but the reality is the manufactures have designed these parts in this way for a good reason.

And just for the record the gearboxes on the 44.2 are the same as the original tc3 that was releasesd in the late 90 and they are build the same now as they were then.

Stu

[steveproracing]

100% agree with stu on this one! inside a ball diff gearbox the only lube that can be used has to be identical with that used on the diff its self as contamination can cause diff failure as quick as 1 run!!!! I've seen it happen!

[Gazzabruv105]

OK I will strip it down and start all over again. Are you sure the manual instructions of one drop of diff lube is enough tho. It doesn't seem enough.

[discostu]

yeah as the manual says i tend to lightly smear the crown wheel (diif gear) and never had a problem diff stay sweet for a while.

stu