Team Tekin Q&A

[HarlowS]

Ahh ok, Thats me all out of ideas then im afraid.

[DCM]

Radio's determined for 'air' use used to have a higher radio output than the 'surface' use models. Not sure if that is the same now, I would assume so, as you need a wider range to the radio, but that don't help.

It maybe that the signal that the RX is seeing isn't as 'good' as the 2channel receivers?

[Dingbat]

If It's any help.
I also use a DX6i for buggy racing with an Ar5000 Rx.
Though my Esc is a mamba max pro but i have not had any issues whatsoever.

[mikeyscott]

I have mild glitching with my dx3r and tekkie. Micro dsm rx, have just order a power cap for it.

However may look at octa for my 511 instead.

[Randy p]

I'd like you to try another channel still.

We take "samples" from the radio a LOT faster than the old GTB and most esc's. So if we lose a signal we will show it to you by flashing all led's. The 27mhz isn't having the issue so it's got to be the radio not providing us with a signal briefly.

Adding a power cap can help smooth out any current spikes but I don't think this is your issue.

Try a different channel on the other stick, it may be something going on to that side of the radio.

[NTS]

Originally Posted by Dingbat

If It's any help.

Originally Posted by Dingbat

I also use a DX6i for buggy racing with an Ar5000 Rx.
Though my Esc is a mamba max pro but i have not had any issues whatsoever.

Likewise it has been spot on for me with both AR500 and AR6200 receivers in both touring car and buggy, and with GTB and LRP SXX Stock Spec ESC’s. It is only the Tekin that is a problem.

Originally Posted by mikeyscott

I have mild glitching with my dx3r and tekkie. Micro dsm rx, have just order a power cap for it.

Originally Posted by mikeyscott

However may look at octa for my 511 instead.

Mikey, could you describe the “glitching” I would describe my problem as hesitation, a delayed response to input rather than glitching where the car see’s input that you haven’t made but we may just be using different words?

Originally Posted by Randy p

I'd like you to try another channel still.

Originally Posted by Randy p

We take "samples" from the radio a LOT faster than the old GTB and most esc's. So if we lose a signal we will show it to you by flashing all led's. The 27mhz isn't having the issue so it's got to be the radio not providing us with a signal briefly.

Adding a power cap can help smooth out any current spikes but I don't think this is your issue.

Try a different channel on the other stick, it may be something going on to that side of the radio.

Randy, I can try another channel but the symptoms were identical on both throttle and rudder channels. I’m starting to wonder if the problem is actually with the ESC and somehow exacerbated by the Spektrum set.

You say you sample faster than the GTB but the response I see with even the old 27MHz set is much worse, assuming you think my throttle blip “response test” is valid. I can’t think of a better way of quantifying the problem without hooking it all up to an oscilloscope and I don’t have easy access to one of those.

The 27MHz set is better than the Spektrum but still not good. The GTB and LRP SXX Stock Spec both show an instantaneous response and the wheels accelerate smoothly to a good speed even with the shortest blip I can manage with no discernable variation between starts. The RS varies between something close to the others to either just a sharp jolt at the wheels or no response at all with the Spektrum and a good start to a sharp jolt with the 27MHz set.

Since my last post I have repeated all of the tests previously discussed. I have re-applied the V2.12 software and tested on the default dual mode settings as well as sensored only setups. I have also tried the RS with a different motor (Novak SS 13.5) but that behaves just the same.

As I said I can try another channel on the Spektrum but I don’t believe it will be any different. Other than that I’m out of ideas, I have now put the LRP back in the car for this week and think that unless you can suggest something else I’m stuck with either buying new radio gear or not being able to use the RS. To me that’s a rock and a hard place as a new radio is going to be expensive and without the RS I’m at a speed disadvantage compared to my rivals.

[DCM]

Where to are you based NTS?

[mikeyscott]

Had a play with it last night and it's glitching and hesitation.

I have a non micro Spektrum RX and a DSM2 RX to try at some point.

Standard pro RX will go back into the Cougar SV and the DSM2 RX that comes with the DX3R will go into the Tamiya 511 with the Tekin if the issues stop

[NTS]

Originally Posted by DCM

Where to are you based NTS?

Winchester

Originally Posted by mikeyscott

Had a play with it last night and it's glitching and hesitation.

I have a non micro Spektrum RX and a DSM2 RX to try at some point.

Standard pro RX will go back into the Cougar SV and the DSM2 RX that comes with the DX3R will go into the Tamiya 511 with the Tekin if the issues stop

Mikey, I would be interested to know how your RS behaves when hooked up to the DSM2 receiver, particularly do you get the LED 4 then all 7 flashing sequence that I get when in neutral? It may be that this issue is related to Spektrum DSM2 rather than "Air" or "Surface", the majority of the surface sets and modules are DSM not DSM2.

[DCM]

Not sure if we have any team drivers local to you, if not, you can send it to me to see if I get the same issue's on a known and working setup?

[Holeshot]

Can the new SCT Motors run with the RS Pro or it's best/safe to be used with the RX8?

[HarlowS]

It will run on the RS Pro but you would need to fit a bigger power cap on it. Far safer to run it on an RX8, you can play all day then

[Holeshot]

Thanks for the info.

[Adam F]

Been having some issues with my RS of late,

The car has cut out a couple of times recently and when I checked for heat etc both the speedo and motor were warm, but not hot.

When at rest the car flashes 3 & 5, then 1 which I am certain it wasnt doing before. (The RS pro in my other car just has the center LED illuminated when at rest)

It has been a bit erratic recently with some issues of sudden surging under acceleration and a fairly large neutral width, even though it is set at minimum.

Any idea's? I dont have the hotwire yet, so havent played with anything other than the standard "onboard" settings.

Cheers!

[DCM]

Think you may get a faster response from email the tech support at Tekin, not seen what you are saying is happening before. Is it flashing just 3&5 LED when cold or after a run?

[Northy]

Does it stop and never start again, or does it come back to life after a few seconds? Does the steering work while it's "stopped"? Is it after landing from a big jump or anything in particular?

G

[Adam F]

The lights were still flashing after it had been sat for about an hour.

It hesitated a bit and then stopped, but then ran again and seemed ok. (if a bit slow)

I took the car off, swapped batteries to make sure it wasnt a voltage thing and then it sat for about an hour before the next heat. The lights were still flashing during the next race and it seemed ok, again a bit slow, but didnt cut out.

Steering has always been fine, and no bad landings/crashes. (for a change)

[DCM]

Have you tried changing the capacitor?

[Adam F]

Not yet, but I have an RS pro in my b44 so will swap the capacitors over and see if the problem goes away.

Have emailed Tekin support, so hopefully will get some feedback from them, will post it on here if they have a solution.

cheers for the help!

[DCM]

No worries, let us know what you find out.