Set ups, tips, tricks, whatever you got...... Please!

[john333]

As much as it pains me to recommend a car other that Schumacher (have driven them since I was 15!) Roger does make a good argument for the Kyosho in your case (and.......they........are.........good........... ............cars.........) that took some saying!! lol

[Skye]

To be honest its a tough call for me. I was swaying towards the Schumacher but Rogers point of shaft drives being lower maintenance than belt drives is obviously quite a big factor when you are less experienced like I am. Although I raced when I was younger, I was too young to fully comprehend set ups and much in the way of maintenance so that aspect is almost completely new to me....

If the Schumacher was shaft driven I think that I would have fallen down in favour of the SX3.

[RogerM]

Feel free to ask for advice when you have the car ... before you get the car please search for my posts on diff shiming and njc11's (Nick 'the diff-man' Caro) posts on building diffs and slipper setting. Follow those and you will have a near bullet proof drive line that is super smooth

[Skye]

Will do Roger, thanks again. Im trying to keep all my questions to this one thread so I can refer back to it to extract information at a later date. When I get the car I will make sure to dig out the posts you mention.

[Skye]

I've been quiet for a few days now to give you all a rest from my questions ....but I have a couple for you now.....?

Firstly, as someone who built my first kit when assembling my RB5 recently I have no clue if I have the slipper set correctly. How can I tell? The car goes well enough, so Im fairly confident that its not horrifically wrong but how do I know if it is set 'right'?

Secondly, regarding the ongoing saga of what 4wd.... I was settled on the FS2. It was a case of when rather than if. Tonight though I have seen that the DEX410 is now available at £299. This has always been a car that I considered a little too pricey so overlooked it but am now wondering if I shoud reconsider?

That said, the general consensus on here seems to be that they are set up heavily dependant, so as a novice to the technical element of this game (set ups and maintenance etc) would I be better off sticking to the FS2 or taking the plunge with a DEX410?

Thanks guys.....

[RogerM]

All I will say is that I know of a few people who had trouble getting to grips with the Durango (it's a very aggressive car to drive) and move to the FS/FS2 ... all have stayed with the Kyosho.

I only know of one person to go from the Lazer to a Durango and he works for Durango now ....

Other than that I'll leave it up to you

[Skye]

Thanks Roger, you kind of confirmed what I was already thinking... I dont think the Durango is the right car for me at this stage of my career. I need simple to set up and maintain, and I dont think that is the Durango.

Was anyone at Moto Arena last night for the racing? If so, what number of laps were people putting in during a 5 minute race?

I went down there this morning and drove the track. I loved it, I was getting worn out early on running up and down the steps from the rostrum doing my own marshalling but was stringing together some good sequences of laps by the end. I doubt whether I was at race pace but I was putting together 10+ laps on a regular basis without ending on my roof or beaching it on the hoses so I was pretty pleased with that.

I would be interested to know how many laps others were completing so I know just how slow I was going...

[Gonky]

I think 15 laps was the max over a 5 minute race in qualifying at Moto Arena last night, not sure if someone managed to squeeze in a 16 lapper though.

[Skye]

Thanks Gonky. Still a bit of work to be done on my 11 laps then.....

[DerbyDan]

Sounds like you were doing ok considering the self-marshalling

Putting in clean laps is half the battle at Moto Arena

[Skye]

Dan, the 11 laps was done with a clean(ish) run where no marshalling was required. At the end of the practice session I was keen to string some decent laps together so whilst I wanted to go quickish, I concentrated on keeping it on 4 wheels. I still clipped the odd kerb, but no flip, rolls or getting beached so there was definate improvement in the session. I managed 3 consecutive runs, each with 10 or more laps where I didnt need to marshall so I was quite pleased with that. My pace sounds like it was about 4 laps down which is obviously a lot but for my first ever time with a car on a track since my Madcap days about 15 years ago I was Reasonably satisfied. I am going to have to get down there on a few tuesday nights now and just keep trying to improve....

[RogerM]

If your going to MotoArena I think there are quite a few Kyosho runners that are regular there.

[Skye]

Has anyone ever bought a kit to assemble and found there to be any shortages in the box? I bought a B44.1 yesterday (I didnt see it coming either, it was FS2 all the way but had a last minute change of heart!?) and the first assembly is of the front and rear diff / gearbox.

When counting out the thrust balls the pack only contained 11 instead of 12. Has something like this happened to anyone else before? I know accidents can happen, but this has been a big pain for me. I started the build last night and the last thing I wanted was to have to stop due to a shortage of parts in the packet!! I just hope all the other quantities are correct otherwise I wont be happy......

I have ordered a pack of 6 replacements from MK-Racing so hopefully they will arrive asap so I can continue and get the rear gearbox completed.

If anyone from MK is on here and sees this, please please please send them as I'm dying to get it built!

This (quite big) problem aside, first impressions of the build are good. I much prefer the way everything is bagged together for each stage of the build, as whilst it wasnt a big issue I wasnt keen on the way for the RB5 I had to keep looking for the right parts on the plastic components 'tree'.

My only other gripe, which is probably my fault is not having the right tools. I have a complete set of metric hex drivers from building the RB5 but found out straight away that the B44.1 is imperial. When it told me I needed a 3/8" driver to screw together the front gearbox my heart sank. None of my metric equivalents are even close enough to make do....

I have also ordered a set of imperial drivers from MK, although curiously not one set (even the AE branded set) listed a 3/8" hex driver. They all though list a 0.050. Why do they list an imperial driver in a metric size? So I am hoping that there is a driver in there that will suffice as I flicked through the instructions and saw that 3/8" keeps popping up regularly!? If not then.....

[gainsy]

Mk are usually really fast sending stuff out so expect it soon
I would order a bag of diff shims as well as you don't get enough in the kit, part number as3911, it says to put 4 one side & 3 the other but you will probably need 6 & 4/5, put more on the short outdrive than the other side, this should give you a nice mesh on the gears
Enjoy the build

[Skye]

Thats good to know!

Thanks for the advice on the shims as well, I will get some ordered tonight.

When building the front diff and tightening it down I wasnt 100% certain how much to tighten it. IF I understood the diagram correctly it told me to fully tighten the screw, and then unscrew it by 1/8th a turn to get the correct kit setting. Does this sound about right?

[gainsy]

When your tightening it up just do it bit by bit, don't do it up completely or you could flatten the diff balls a bit, as it starts to feel tight hold both outdrives( i usually stick 1 side in a vice) & stick a allen key through the other side, then try & turn the centre pulley, if you can turn it it's to loose, just tighten a little at a time till you cant turn it, then your diff is set sweet, check it's still tight after your first run, when the car is assembled i think the diff should spin for no more than 1 second then stop, works nice for my car
Also loads of black grease on the thrust balls so they stay in place when you put them in the outdrive
Hope that makes sense
Gainsy

[gainsy]

Forgot to say the idea of the shims is to stop the diff moving sideways, just add enough so it sits nice but still spins freely

[Skye]

Yeah that makes sense, thanks mate. I just hope I havent over tightened the front already then. I didnt burst a blood vessel on it or anything but because I thought it was telling me to fully tighten and then unscrew by 1/8 turn I did tighten it by hand until the resistance meant I would have had to adjust my grip to turn it anymore. I then released it by 1/8 as that was my interpretation of the instructions....!?

[gainsy]

I think it's just the carbide balls that flatten, as long as the diff feels smooth but not loose you will be fine
Don't forget the threadlock on the alloy motor mounts as well, there is also a thread in the associated section about the steering assembly locking up if not put together exactly right, didn't have a problem myself as got mine second hand but worth a look before you get to it
Any more probs just pm me mate & enjoy building it

[Skye]

Thanks Gainsy, I appreciate the advice. If I need any more I will give you a shout!