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#61
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Ive done a cad drawing of the rear end including the "T" piece... Ready for laser cutting.
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#62
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Instead of holes on the motor guard m8 , do a fancy design perhaps a J , then i could have one too. lol but you know what i mean ive never been a big fan of just plain boaring holes
JJ
__________________
'John 'The Boat Wizzard' 'The Cart Wizzard' M Walton' Theres a few more but i wont go there!FG Onroad - Zenoha - Futaba Servo's - GP Mi 3.5 - Stock class - Orion - LRP - Nosram TC4 - 10.5 - Orion - Futaba Brushless Servo - LRP T4 - 6.5 Losi System - Futaba Brushless Servo DX3r - Ansmann - Muchmore - Propeak OTHERS ARE ETHER IN BITS OR IN ATTIC |
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#63
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Holes are easy to draw... You cant have everything!!
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#64
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it be better with out the hole's i think
how about a rat face etched in (ovs for the madrat )
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#65
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Everyone hates holes!!
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#66
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Ill see what i can do!
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#67
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this may have an abvious answer, but why are you making the t-piece with the motor guard built in, as that means, and rear hits can transfer the force, to the T-piece and cause twistage?
__________________
dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
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#68
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Because where the T piece fastens to the motor guard the material is at its thinnest.
If the T piece was made to take the standard motor guard it would be weak if made from any material. Bering in mind the way that the unit is connected to the rest of the chassis and the material thickness. I don't think there will be a problem. |
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#69
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hmmm, my engineers nose and far to long in the hobby tells me, that will just cause problems, rather than curing. If you don't get the metal rolled at the right degree of roll, correct radius and what not, then you will be forcing the guard to line up, putting a twist in the T-piece.
If you make the T-Piece out of slightly thicker, or just the same thickness but stronger material, the problem should be cured.
__________________
dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
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#70
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I could do the t piece as per the kit and get it laser cut ... However this would then need an extra machining process.
I know exactly what your saying about getting bumped and it causing breakages. Ive also thought that if the t piece is beefed up will that put stresses on the chassis in a different place that would break a different component in a bump? Like you said previously the material needs to flex, not be rigid or break. We also need to keep the item simple so as not to make it expensive. |
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#71
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I'm at work and my RC10 and 'Rat are at home so I can't check but doesn't the motor guard fit in the same way on a B4? They don't break - well not often - so wouldn't it be an idea to mimic that layout. As DCM said earlier in the thread the issue is not helped by the gearbox mounting allowing some flex, but the plate being too stiff and thin to do the same hence it just fractures. I'll be fascinated to see how long mine lasts under the stresses of the kit motor
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#72
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I cover the ridges with shoe glue. It strengthens the parts and still allows flex.
I'll let you know if my std (shoe glued part) snapps with my 8t brushless.
__________________
http://www.thercracer.com/ |
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#73
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Anybody else having trouble with this? When I put the screws into the plate that came in the kit, all four holes stripped their threads before the screws got anywhere near tight. Believe me, NO force was used in fact I rolled the allen key between my finger and thumb to rotate the screws and used less effort on each one, mindful of the fact that each previous hole had stripped. I'm not a hamfisted clot (driver yes) and this must be at least the 20th car I've built so while I don't profess to know it all, I do have a vague idea what I'm doing. A new plate has arrived today which looks marginal darker green than the kit one but it's just done the same effin' thing on the first screw I've put into it. It's currently on the bench and I've put the remaining 3 screws in and every one is mega-baggy, but an M3x10 screw goes with much less play. I'm wondering if A) the screws are not right, B) the plate is substandard or C) I don't know my own strength. Whatever, it is really peeing me off as it's basically a fiver down the can every time.
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#74
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I believe there is an issue there, with that, contact the shop or Ansmann, as I believe there was a batch, that got released with holes slightly over sized before tapping, so the threads were shallow.
__________________
dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
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#75
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Yep i have the same problem...Highly annoying isnt it
![]() Both my kits had the same problem.
__________________
Hobao H2 Pro xbox/ps3/Wii U : budge1972 (add me) |
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#76
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Did you eventually get a replacement plate that was OK?
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#77
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Not tried yet,only stripped 1 hole/screw on each plate so they are just holding.But i know exactly what you mean when you say NO FORCE.
I,ll give the shop a ring where i bought mine and see what they say.
__________________
Hobao H2 Pro xbox/ps3/Wii U : budge1972 (add me) |
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#78
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mine did exactly the same! looks like we have found another issue, 2 of the 4 holes failed first time with little or no force, not good
![]() To be honest quality control could spoil a good car as i was going to buy the macnum truck aswell. Im now not so sure |
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#79
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looking at some m/sport pictures the pro seems to have silver motor plate in it, is that the case? as the mad rat is a green alloy and maybe inferior to it
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#80
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Anybody with an X-Pro care to comment? DCM, Mr Goodall?
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