Tamiya Durga DB01 EP Buggy (A cheaper 501X?)

[Eddie168]

Hey guys just wondering how many mm is the champ screw set is? is it 2mm or 2.5mm? cause i am getting a hudy driver for my striped screw and not sure which size i should get THX

[wayneski]

Hello again all. I know that DCM has answered this (kind of) but I'm trying to find the instructions for making the 501x shocks. not having much luck I'm afraid. Can anyone point me on the right direction? Or give me a link?

Cheers

[jimmy]

Originally Posted by Eddie168

Hey guys just wondering how many mm is the champ screw set is? is it 2mm or 2.5mm? cause i am getting a hudy driver for my striped screw and not sure which size i should get THX

2mm (now I must add more text as it wont let me just put 2mm! - and im 'boss', mad!)

[Spoolio]

Has anybody got the Tamiya Ti screw kit and a Hudy 2mm driver? Mine is screwing in the screws OK, but when I come to remove the driver it needs backing and it 'unclicks' ie, it feels like its going to round off in the hex if I keep tightening the screw. Not sure whether to buy a new Hudy driver or if something else will fit better. Given the price of the Tamiya screws I don't want to ruin them on the first go.

[ralphee]

Spoolio, i have the same deal and yes i had to back the driver out gently, ive finished my build and the screws are fine buddy, must be a very slight tolerance difference, not sure, but my driver is brand spanking?

lee

[jimmy]

The cheaper Ti and similar screws all seem to be like this. Ti is pretty soft and the heads not very deep - so the driver will get stuck in there as it moves round a little. Did you pre-tap the holes at all? I'd probably advise it if you're using anything other than black steel hex screws.

[Spoolio]

Jimmy, yeah thanks to your warnings, I pretapped the A12 parts with a new M3 tap I've had in my 'big car' toolbox for a while. So far they are the only bits I've fitted, didn't want to go any further if I was going to have to buy a new hex driver. If its a common thing with Ti, then I shall plough on with the build. I just thought the genuine Tamiya bits would be good quality (there is a mug born every minute I guess) especially @ £20 a pop. I didnt realise Ti was soft, I assumed it was light and hard, I've learnt something new today (2 things if I include the fact that I am a crap driver and need to practice...a lot !!).

[jimmy]

lol
yeah - You don't want to ever use Ti screws for the shock tops - as these get punished when you land upside down and will bend / break a lot sooner than steel screws.
Maybe try some grease in the threads before putting the screws in? Ultimately tho I've got the same with my Ti screws on my 501X - never been a problem but it's not a nice feeling I agree. Ti screws like the ones lunsford or whoever do, the shiney machined ones, are rather nice and don't seem to have the same problem - but are a lot more expensive.

[Spoolio]

Thanks for the tip about not using Ti for the shocks, never thought of that...the sensible thing would be to use steel ones then? Or I could just proceed to plan B and screw an upside down Losi Mini-T to the roof, so when I flip over, I can just keep on goin'

[mutie]

the 501x manual can be found on the tamiya usa website, on the 501x section.

[DCM]

I just had a fun ay with the DB-01..... jumps like a car should, goes round corners like a car should too. Had to tighten up the rear belt as it had finally bedded in, and the front one wants to be nipped up too.

Still waiting for CVD's (yaaaaaaaawn) and does anyone want to donate their kit tyres?

[A.J. Gee]

I had an unfortunate crash with this buggy at a pretty high rate of speed into an unmovable object and the result was a bent suspension shaft as well as the little plastic bits that attach to the end of the shafts. This was of course a crash that would have damaged any other buggy including the Academy SBV2 pro. lol. But anyways, i am now having trouble locating the "A" tree which includes the tiny plastic bits that i need for the shafts. I was hoping to score both the shafts and "A" parts from the same dealer so that i can save on separate shipping costs. The only problem now is that i cant seem to find a place that has the "A" parts period. Im a bit disapointed, but maybe im just being a bit impatient. Do you guys think its too early for the DB-01 to have a variety of places to choose from to get parts, or is going to come down to supply and demand and end up paying high prices for parts?


A.J.

[Northy]

Originally Posted by DCM

does anyone want to donate their kit tyres?

Pikey! lol

[DCM]

Originally Posted by Northy

Pikey! lol

My mummy always taught me that if you don't ask.... you don't get and the worst is you get told to fook off heehee

[Eddie168]

After all the problems i had. Finally!!!!!! it finished but i still need to get the striped screw that stuck on the gear box maybe after afew run LOL

[Mike Hudson]

Originally Posted by Eddie168

After all the problems i had. Finally!!!!!! it finished but i still need to get the striped screw that stuck on the gear box maybe after afew run LOL

Looking really nice is the wing painted aswell or clear?

[Eddie168]

Originally Posted by Mike Hudson

Looking really nice is the wing painted aswell or clear?

Thanks mate, the wing is gonna be clear but will put decals on

[Toonz]

so erm....... is the tamiya titanium DB01 screw set recommended?

[ralphee]

Shell goes nice with the black rims Eddie

bests....lee

[Carlos69]

Originally Posted by Toonz

so erm....... is the tamiya titanium DB01 screw set recommended?

I'd recommend it, along with using a 3m tap. The set doesn't include the four 2.6 x 8mm bolts needed to screw down the centre/slipper shaft tho