Team Tekin Q&A

[DCM]

DOH.... senial moment

[losi madness]

is that the same for bashing ? with the rx8 sytem 2250kv

[samd]

Thanks for the answer , I think I need to reword the question.

I'm only referring to duel drive mode

If the motor sensors are only used for a couple of feet from standing, then disregarded why isn't 0deg motor timing used for max torque from a standing start as this timing setting isn't used at any other speed?

A setting of 50 sensorless timing is 15deg, is this exactly the same as 15deg on the motors sensors (redline) or is there a slight difference , ie do you need to have a higher or lower setting for sensorless timing to get the same advance as the equivalent sensored setting

Hope this makes more sense!!

Ta sam

[DCM]

And another

[Buggy Driver]

Hotwire and speedo are both equipped with the lastest software.
Done a complete race now: even though it´s still blinking randomly, no problems occured, just as DCM had presumed.

So, it seems there´s no need to go back to 203, as the temperature was lower and brakes just plain better with 208. But thanks Kev, I´ll drop you a line if the old software is needed nevertheless.

Randy,

I had a different problem recently: during a race the car stopped a few times and just sounded bad. In the next moment it went on without a problem. Some other driver told me it could be the sensor wire came undone just a little bit, as this had happened to him before, although with no Tekin. The next race the car drove fine again, but a few days ago it had some heavy hesitation from a standstill. After changing the motor I saw that one single lead of the sensor wire had come loose. Changed the cable and it was fine again.

So, the RS can drive with and without a sensor wire, but it seems that it can get problems when the cable isn´t completely off, like just one single lead off.
Maybe this is something which could be looked into, that the RS handles an even just slightly faulty sensor wire like it´s completely off to avoid being unable to drive on. Actually, my motor was strangely cooked when it had these heavy starting problems with the faulty cable (the speedo remained cool).

[samd]

Originally Posted by DCM

OK, right, whatever you set the motor to, the RS uses it to read the initial drive (sensored), when it then cuts over to sensorless, as you already have a pred-determined timing, then whatever you add on in sensorless, is added on to the motor timing.

So, if you set
Motor 12'
RS 50% (+15')

then at max throttle, you will have motor + RS, so 12 + 15' = 27' total.

Are you sure about this??

[DCM]

I am just checking with an engineer, if it isn't, then it is old age affecting my brain

[DCM]

I had it wrong, the motor timing is irrelevant when the RS switches from Sensored to Sensorless in Dual Drive mode.

[samd]

Thanks for checking pal, didnt think it sounded right.

[DCM]

I have emailed the man who designed it to confirm, and will post up his reply here..... Think the paint fumes are eating away my little grey cells. Saying that, I am sure there isn't a 'definite' zero, like a set point, I believe the point does move. But will let you know what the boss says.

[Randy p]

The deal with dual mode is that we get out of the sensored portion so quickly the timing is negated for the most part. I list mine at 12 since it's where the motors are defaulted out of the box.

In dual mode motor timing is NOT part of the equation. 50 in dual mode is 15 degrees,period.

DCM, wear a mask! LOL

[samd]

Thanks guys!

[DCM]

Originally Posted by Randy p

DCM, wear a mask! LOL

Randy, I am not THAT ugly close though!!!

[andygray]

Hi Randy,

I have a strange intermittent problem with my Tekin RX8 speed controller. Occasionally (usually after a lot of high speeds) the controller seems to crash or something. It often happens whilst I am full on the throttle, which is not a good time to lose control of your car. When this happens, all power to the servo and radio receiver is cut/lost. Also, all the lights flash rapidly on the rx8 speed controller. It will remain like this for about 20 or 30 seconds, and then come back to life. If I start driving straight away, it will often cut out again within the next 5-30 seconds or so. But usually if I leave it for a few minutes, it will be fine for good after that.

Someone from Tekin told me that the rx8 speed controllers flash all the lights when they lose connectivity between the esc and radio. So, this is obvious because all power to the radio has been cut. The question is why? Can you think of anything in the esc that would cause it to stop powering the radio?

At first, I thought it might be the thermal cutout, since I was racing it at a track and the esc fan had lost a few blades, but I've now replaced the fan, and it still does this cutout, even when the esc is running cool.

I've got a lipo battery tester/meter on the battery testing for any dead cells, and there are none on the battery, they are all good. When the esc seems to lose power to the radio like this, the lipo battery meter doesn't show any problems with the battery.

Oh, by the way the radio is a Spektrum DX2S with an SR33001 receiver, which also has a thermal probe going to the motor which tells me on the transmitter the motor temperature. It is about 2 months old.

Any ideas as to what might be going on?

Any ideas on some tests I could do?

Thanks.

- Andy

[DCM]

If you are losing the receiver, it is possible that the receiver is shutting down/failsafe?

[HarlowS]

I had a similar problem with an RS Pro, after swapping nearly everything it was found to be the Spektrum module in my KO. I had 2 different sets do this on me so i went back to 40mhz and all has been fine since.

Im not saying that this is your problem but certainly worth keeping in mind as you try everything in the car itself.

[Randy p]

I agree with where the guys are going. I'd wager it's the spektrum system. IF we're still showing all led's flashing than we're not getting a signal, the rx will still have power.

We run power caps in our receivers to help prevent THIS exact issue. Spektrum even makes one of their own. Try this first.

How many servos are you using? Which ones? What type of car is this in? Battery you're using?

[madonrc]

purchased a tekin RS pro. Good no probs, fast, doing well with it, won a chamionship, all though found the brakes weak. Updated to the new system 2008 from 2003. Not as fast as the changes were not explained in english, only in computer , technical terms. Tried to go back to 2003 find the option had gone . Not happy. Found someone who had the 2003 system on there computer so went back to it. All happy again. Went to race on a Wed evening turned it on Nothing. No lights, but power was going through it as the servo was working. Boxed it up sent it off to the shop where i purchased it. 4/5 day pass by nothing. So i call them to find out they had not checked there mail box. 2 days later i phone back again to be told that they do not know what to do as RC disco have not sorted out with tekin the return policy and if i pay £15 they would replace it. But it would take a week. If not the shop would return it to me , i would then post it to USA (tekin) and have to wait for a answer. WHAT A JOKE. nearly 2 week's to get no where with a championship round on Sunday with no ESC. I feel we are being ripped off with stupid prices, ie almost £200 (when they must cost peanuts to make because when a new product comes out they almost half the price of a old product) and then not getting the support. This is not just a moan at Tekin its most distributors. The best service i have had is from schumacher. why can't they all be like that.

why dont rcdisco know what to do ??????

[andygray]

Hi guys. Hmm, yes, I'm starting to think the receiver also. But that is so strange.

As I say, it's a spektrum DX2S receiver, but I don't know of any protection cut-outs that the receiver coudl have that would cause it to shutdown.

The car is a HPI Vorza Flux, I am only using 1 servo, a HPI SF-5 which is stock in the vorza. Yes, more I think about it the more I suspect the receiver.

Well, off to Spektrum to see if they can help me I guess.

- Andy

[DCM]

Originally Posted by madonrc

purchased a tekin RS pro. Good no probs, fast, doing well with it, won a chamionship, all though found the brakes weak. Updated to the new system 2008 from 2003. Not as fast as the changes were not explained in english, only in computer , technical terms. Tried to go back to 2003 find the option had gone . Not happy. Found someone who had the 2003 system on there computer so went back to it. All happy again. Went to race on a Wed evening turned it on Nothing. No lights, but power was going through it as the servo was working. Boxed it up sent it off to the shop where i purchased it. 4/5 day pass by nothing. So i call them to find out they had not checked there mail box. 2 days later i phone back again to be told that they do not know what to do as RC disco have not sorted out with tekin the return policy and if i pay £15 they would replace it. But it would take a week. If not the shop would return it to me , i would then post it to USA (tekin) and have to wait for a answer. WHAT A JOKE. nearly 2 week's to get no where with a championship round on Sunday with no ESC. I feel we are being ripped off with stupid prices, ie almost £200 (when they must cost peanuts to make because when a new product comes out they almost half the price of a old product) and then not getting the support. This is not just a moan at Tekin its most distributors. The best service i have had is from schumacher. why can't they all be like that.

why dont rcdisco know what to do ??????

Right, lets deal with a few things here...

RCDisco have not long started distributing Tekin products, so it will take time to work out faults etc.

If you ever have a serious issue with a Tekin product, your first port of call should be the Tekin Site (www.teamtekin.com), then their forum, and if you still can't find the answer, you email support[at]teamtekin[dot]com

Re the firmware update, I am not sure if going back from 208 to 203 is advisable. It sounds like you have had an issue with back stepping the firmware, I would suggest that you go back to v208, do a factory reset, then recalibrate the esc to your radio (ensuring that you have your brakes and throttle epa set to 100%). Then the starting point for your esc setup should be exactly the same as v203.

As for cost, these are not cheap items to design or build, and to be fair, ESC prices haven't actually risen much in monetary terms over the past 20 years, a good esc in the early 90's was still £150 and they were not a patch on what we have now.