Tamiya Durga DB01 EP Buggy (A cheaper 501X?)

[jimmy]

I see you got the Champ screw kit - a wise move! I've got one also but not used it yet.

[Eddie168]

Originally Posted by jimmy

I see you got the Champ screw kit - a wise move! I've got one also but not used it yet.

Yea jimmy but very sadly i already managed to broke one of the screw by try to screw in the A12 thing at the start

[jimmy]

Was it an alloy screw? I'd still suggest pre-tapping those parts especially. After doing the first few with a hudy driver and CS hex screw, I put a 2mm bit in a drill and did them all really quickly with the drill. The suspension blocks are the hardest ones to screw into I think.

Shame about breaking one - once tapped they will be a lot easier to put in.

The nicest ones to use are the ones from Tonys Screws that I used on my Df03 - nice deep hex meant they were really nice positive fit with the driver and you'd have to be a maniac to strip one. Not heard back from him yet but I know he's putting one together. I'll be using the ones from Champ myself so thanks for letting me know.

[Eddie168]

A very bad start for me building the durga, i was trying to screw the A12 part but managed to mess one of the screw up already, i was tryin so hard to get the screw out and finially got it out after 30 minutes, what a start LOL

[Eddie168]

Originally Posted by jimmy

Was it an alloy screw? I'd still suggest pre-tapping those parts especially. After doing the first few with a hudy driver and CS hex screw, I put a 2mm bit in a drill and did them all really quickly with the drill. The suspension blocks are the hardest ones to screw into I think.

Shame about breaking one - once tapped they will be a lot easier to put in.

That is what i am doing now lol and my hand is bleeding LOL

[Eddie168]

Originally Posted by jimmy

Was it an alloy screw? I'd still suggest pre-tapping those parts especially. After doing the first few with a hudy driver and CS hex screw, I put a 2mm bit in a drill and did them all really quickly with the drill. The suspension blocks are the hardest ones to screw into I think.

Shame about breaking one - once tapped they will be a lot easier to put in.

The nicest ones to use are the ones from Tonys Screws that I used on my Df03 - nice deep hex meant they were really nice positive fit with the driver and you'd have to be a maniac to strip one. Not heard back from him yet but I know he's putting one together. I'll be using the ones from Champ myself so thanks for letting me know.

Those blue screw from RC champ are made from aluminum and they are so easy to break also those screw hasn't got deep hexso beaware

[jimmy]

yeah they sound like the TRF screws in that regard - the shallow hex needs respect! Sort of glad to hear it wasn't just me who really found the suspension blocks a nightmare to screw into! If you have a different (steel) hex screw you can use to tap the holes first, with some grease, that would be a massive help.

[Toonz]

about the balll diff assembly at step 3, if you notice the arrow at the far right pointing the final assembly of the diff, its tail was drawn "twisted", unlike the normal "straight" tail arrows. this is to show that you have to turn the entire diff around to screw in the BG4 screw from the bottom BG6. it also shows the longer diff joint, which is BG5, located on top. one difference between the BG5 and BG6 diff joint is that the BG5 has a pertruding edge cutting across the slot where the BG3 spring and part K4 and BG1 nut will be inserted. so tamiya has drawn it clearly.

i bought a japanese rc magazine that featured the Durga and it also warned that we must tap the holes, especially the suspension mount. they even showed a broken screw that was stuck in it! got to thank jimmy, that you reinforce the idea of tapping the holes with a titanium screw and a strong hudy and i haven't strip a single screw throughout the entire build. all my screw heads are in perfect condition.

[Metla]

My judgment of the car is based on price, Here in NZ it sells for $280, add in delivery and its a $300 car.

In my opinion the contents of the box don't reflect great value, especially when they are compounded with a couple major flaws,such as the screws.

Now, If it were the same price as a TA05, My views would completely and utterly different. And of course, I'm yet to hit the track, Which is where the biggest judgment should come from.

Jimmy, If I were a rich man I'd send you a SBV2 Pro to review, I know you would be impressed.

[DCM]

we have had the V2 in the UK for a while.... and it is pants compare to the DB-01, the screws are an issue, but not a biggy, and in the UK the DB-01 is about £5 more than a TA05.

[Metla]

Sweet, Though I can't base my views on the price in the UK.

As for the SBV2 Pro being pants to the DC-01, Thats just silly talk. Have you never seen one?

[DCM]

dude, I used to rae for the UK Academy team.... and ompared to most cars out there, the Academy 4wd just don't stack up, and that goes for ALL the lub/omp 4wd buggies, the only good car they really made was the touring ar.

[Metla]

How much track time have you had with the SBV2 Pro?

[DCM]

we didn't have much, but the chassis was flex central, very little improvement over wear rates compared to the SB and only marginaly better plastics. Compared to the Tamiya, the SB V2 would feel the cheaper buggy even though it is higher speked, but with naff shocks and an average slipper.

Plus the DB01, wheels are available anywhere.

[jimmy]

I thought DCM was a team driver?
Either way I think we've all 'seen' an SBV2 back when guys like Snee were factory drivers. Afaik the car has progressed since then, especially the PRO version.

How much are other cars over there Metla? You are talking like the car cost 350 quid (like a lot of 4WD cars do) - which is over 900 NZD. Saying the car cost 300NZD with postage (!) equates to ~116 quid which I have to say is an absolute bloody bargain regardless of what anything else costs.

Unless you have incredibly generous importers in NZ then I'd hazard a guess that 4WD competition buggies generally cost a lot more than that.

btw, I totally appreciate your opinion and I also based my opinion on the price of the car. Give me a 250 quid car with screws like this and I'll stamp on it. Give me a 116 quid car with proven suspension and great racing potential and I'll cuddle it at night.
I'm sure if I get time I'll review the SBV2 and I agree it looks good. the early examples I saw had very flexible chassis and I heard some problems with materials and hubs, but maybe those are all fixed now.

[Metla]

Butting heads with a ex-team driver is going to be pointless, Though I will say my SBV2 Pro is pure quality, Tough as nails, drives better then any other buggy I have owned. I personally wouldn't have touched any of their cars before the Pro, But she impresses the crap out of me, in every way.

Back to prices, You can get a TA05 for just on $200, as for the price of other buggies They generally need to be imported privately, I did look at bringing in a DB-01 from overseas but it was going to equate to a very similar price as getting one locally.

Durga delivered from local source-$300
SBV2 Pro delivered from USA-$381
B44 would probably sting ya around $440

[jimmy]

Mate if you like your Pro then don't let anyone try convince you otherwise.. I honestly think though that you either expected too much from the Tamiya or just lost interest after the 'screw debacle'.
I prefer plastic chassis' cars to carbon fibre - that's just the way I am. And even with a couple of 501X's sat on the kitchen table I still think the Durga is an awesome car with great potential.

[DCM]

the DB-01 is cheapest from HK... and that is delivered with a slipper was £100 ($190 USD) not much more than a TA05.

[jimmy]

I think for the price paid (locally) you should be wondering HOW you got a buggy with proven suspension and drive train, fully ball raced with high quality plastics and popular wheel fitment AND free tyres to boot. In other words, for the money, there's simply nothing even close

Sorry you don't like it tho mate, I think it's a brilliant car for the money ) and if I didn't have three of them in my lounge I'd probably make you an offer. Maybe I have something I can swap you for it?

[Metla]

Lets not get too carried away, I just threw up a negative post after not enjoying the build and a three minute drive around my section, I intend to put in plenty of track time with her, No intention of selling it.

Though I will be replacing the shocks, fitting CVD's, slipper, One-way, screw kit....by which time she won't be able to be considered cheap.