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#601
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#602
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the school is in the Philipines and he won their section of the all Asia. His dad used to race, but now is his pit mechanic, but has just aquired a new B44 for his self, providing his son does not pinch it Ha ha. Your right, the old addage says get them young and they will learn faster, so good luck with the youngun, hope his mum agrees too. ![]() |
#603
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any of you guys want to get rid of your kit tyres?
__________________
dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#604
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noob question as well as my first...
if I wanted to run one of these on rough tarmac / concrete, what tyres would you recommend - I guess the pin spikes will just be wiped ut within 10 minutes ? SJ |
#605
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Probably the kit tyres to be honest, they should last pretty well, they are meant for bashing like that. Can't say how long they'd last but a damn sight longer than some 'schumacher mini spikes' or similar - the closely packed spikes should last pretty well and they are fairly hard.
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#606
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Cheers for the quick reply
![]() Looks like I'll burn through these first then... Do they do "touring Car" type tyres made to 1/10 buggy scale ? I've seen some "truggy" type tyres which look similar to normal car tyres, Would they be more hardwearing ? Thry look a little TOO big though. SJ |
#607
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I think proline dirt hawgs may be what you are after then
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__________________
Hobao H2 Pro xbox/ps3/Wii U : budge1972 (add me) ![]() |
#608
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now THAT's what I had in mind
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#609
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Pro line dirt hawgs are way too big for a buggy like the Durga. Trust me, i have those tires on my stadium thunder and even on that truck they are big.
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#610
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Dirt Hawgs are available in truck and buggy sizes.
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#611
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Yes you are correct. My bad.
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#612
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#613
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Hey Metla, throw it on Ebay so I can have a second one for TCS racing!
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#614
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Well my build went spot on, no problems, i even got the diffs nailed sweet too, but then i have been building RC cars for the last 20 years plus so its all common sense TBH!
Id never plan on putting a phililps screw into composite anyway, its asking for trouble, but yeah, sweet build, sweet chassis IMO and not ugly at all, have you even looked at some of the buggies around of late? There no YZ10's i can tell ya lol. lee |
#615
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Metla,
I did the same thing with the diffs and thought it was my own stupidity. However. It was easy to assemble them the correct way though without rebuilding them thanks to advice from a few of the guys here if you looked at the previous forms you may have spotted that problem. |
#616
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Wow Metla, how can we have such opposing views? Yeah it's got plastic bits here and there, and yeah it's not got a slipper. But, its cheaper than an SBV2, it's also dare I say got more racing heritage. I've raced the standard car and it's certainly very good from the box. the plastic parts are all high quality (not like the usual Tamiya plastic).
I don't really know what you mean when you say cheap and nasty? What are you expecting for such money? there is simply no car that can compare for that money - but if there is I will happily get it and review it alongside. I raced the car twice so far and the results speak for themselves. Even if you are pissed about it, give it a chance. I was disapointed to see the half-plastic diffs, but they have performed well so far through 2 race meetings. There has been no problem with the drivetrain other than the pinion falling off - which was my fault. |
#617
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Metla, I think you are being a bit hard on the car.
What exactly did you expect? If you wanted a full race spec Tamiya you should have bought the TRF501X. Yes, the points you mention about the screws and diff instruction are true. However if you have 20 years experience of building cars I thought you would have realised that the phillips head screws would not last in the hard plastic, and that you had made a mistake with the diff screw. I know I made the same mistake but realised it as soon as I finished the diffs. And I bought some hex head screws before even attempting the build. At the end of the day the Durga is a basic car. But it is a basic car that handles very well. That is what it is all about in my opinion. |
#618
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The screws are a bit of a joke - but the screws in the ZX5 were even worse.. The only reason they were worse in the ZX5 is because that car costs twice as much. You can't slate a car that's this cheap for something like screws. I think the screws are used so little jonny who'll NEVER see a race track can build it on xmas morning with his dads phillips.
Unlike sosidge, I chose to soldier on with the build using the kit screws - and if you tap all the holes first and use grease there isn't really any big problem. Eventually you can switch to a hex screw kit - but you can't really expect one to come with it at this price. I was sweating, swearing and with a sore hand after the first 2 screws in this car - I had to spend a lot longer than I should just pre tapping all the holes. But I have two 501X cars and still love the Durga. I contacted Tony from Tonys Screws - and he's looking at putting together a kit for the Durga as we speak. |
#619
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I built the ar with the kit srews and no problems either, ok I tapped them first, which you really shouldn't have to do, but that is a problem with the cheap srews and not heap plastie, it is far FAR better than the DF-03 plasti, and after being an owner of Academy stuff.... it is far FAR better than that too. At least I know all the metal bits will last and not munch itself.
As for the Diff's, I never even noticed an issue, I did glue the diff rings to the plastic holders and to be honest, I am surprised that they have lasted. I did have a noise oming from the car, but that was lack of grease on the driveshafts, once greased they were fine. For the price, you really can't complain with it, in fact you get a lot of kit, ball diffs, ballraces through the drivetrain, 48dp spur, shims for the rear suspension....
__________________
dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#620
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Finally i got the DB-01 kit post right from Japan,
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