Car cuts out after a shock from a jump tekin rs pro??

[Randy p]

Ok, this sounds like the esc is going into pit tune mode. This is caused by one of the buttons being pressed. So any wires going over the top of the buttons?

[cs8sz]

Hi Randy,

Actually yes! There was the motor wire over the mode button, would this cause this issue? It does sound logical to me I hadn't though of that opps.

I hope that was the issue fingers crossed, I will report back after I have taken it racing hopefully on Wednesday.

Thanks for your help!

Chris

[Mouton]

Perhaps is was that easy, having one motor wire hitting a button. I shure hope so as that is easy to fix.

Are you sure the sensor leads (both ends) sit firmly? It may be that causing the problems. I had similar problems when the sensor wire connector at the ESC end did not sit 100 %. It looked OK but it was not.

While it is true that many modern servos draw a lot of Amps, I am yet to see one that exceeds 3 A for a standard sized servo. I have done actual measurements of current draw during use and Futaba's bigger digital servos (those aimed for 1:8 offroad) peak at about 1.5 A (when you try to steer whilst holding on to one of the front tires). The only servos I have found to exceed 3 A are digital large scale servos featuring a much bigger motors. Sanwas (Airtronics) ERG/SDX series are remarkably good in that aspect as they draw very little current compared to other makes with similar specs. Savöx have a reputation for drawing quite a lot of current, but really not more than a 3A ESC BEC should handle.

Perhaps the BEC of the Tekin is "optimistically" speced? On most receivers I have opened up, including the Futaba R603FS, all positive and negative connectors are wired in parallel (but naturally not to eachother), thus eliminating the receiver as the cutout culprit. If you want to eliminate the receiver completely, activate its fail safe settings and set it to hold the throttle input. That way it will not cause a braking effect if the receiver looses the signal and reboots.

Originally Posted by Randy p

If you only have access to a Savox servo you can bypass the bec circuit to eliminate the servo as the issue. This is done by taking a line from B+ and wiring straight to the servo's red wire on the servo lead. This red wire must be removed from the servo's connector.

Only follow that advice if your servo can handle 8.4 Volts! Do that with a 6.0 Volt servo and only its gearbox and casing are usable as spares...

Considering the driving style and what dodgydiy suggests, how is the slipper set? Perhaps you could try loosen it slightly.

[cs8sz]

Hi,

Thanks for those tips, My Savox servo I believe is only rated at 6.0v volts so I won't risk hotwiring it, thanks for the reciever wiring that is very useful and for sure when the car cuts out I have steering at all times, so I hope it really is that easy!

The Savox servo 1251 has a max current at stall of 3amps but I think normally it wouldn't get close to this as you sugest. It is a shame why speedo manufacturers don't make 5amp BEC instead (The speed passion is also rated at 3amps)

Thanks for all the advice!

Chris

[Randy p]

90% of the current servos are drawing more than 10amps at a peak current spike. This is often a steering correction of the initial current to switch directions.

Put your car on the bench with weight on the tires, steer it back and forth quickly and see if you can watch your receiver reset, or led's dim out.

A DVOM or servo checker will not sample at a fast enough frame rate to catch these spikes. I'm not making this up, we've tested them all to find this issue.

Yes I would expect any new Tekin esc's being developed to have a more robust and stronger BEC in the future

[cs8sz]

Hi

When is the expected release date then? I want one! May I suggest another useful feature, re-design the package to allow at small heat sink and fan to be mounted on the speedo like the other makes. As in modified it is very .difficult to mount the fan anywhere useful to cool the solder posts down.

Thanks again

Chris

[cs8sz]

Hi guys,

After racing last night I am glad to report that it seems ok, it cut out in the first round as the wires were still close to the mode button, so under instructions from kev, I took the buttons out of the case so it can't possible happen again and it worked perfectly after that, the buttons still can be used with a point.

Thank you so much for your help

Chris

[Randy p]

Glad to hear it. Funny how it can be the silliest things....

[coleman758]

Hey guys,

Ok I've been having a similar issue, my ESC keeps cutting out. Like its
resetting. Now there is no pattern to it some thimes it does it on jumps other times just in corners. I loose everything including steering.

I'm running a Savox Lopro and 5.5X12

I've tried it in my Durango & RB5 still does the same?

[Randy p]

Did you add a receiver cap to your radio system? The Savox servos cause brown outs which is what you're experiencing since you lose steering also.

[coleman758]

Originally Posted by Randy p

Did you add a receiver cap to your radio system? The Savox servos cause brown outs which is what you're experiencing since you lose steering also.

Interesting... I will have a look into it!

[coleman758]

Will say a spectrum cap work on a Futaba reciver?

[gainsy]

I got 1 of these when my savox was playing up
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/220733640728
Have had no problems since
I see no reason why it wouldn't work with futaba stuff, just make sure the plug goes in the right way up & you should be good to go

[captainlip]

Originally Posted by Randy p

Did you add a receiver cap to your radio system? The Savox servos cause brown outs which is what you're experiencing since you lose steering also.

Hit the nail on the head randy!

[Randy p]

Sweet!

[coleman758]

Nice one guys, I have ordered one of those.
Hopefully that should sort the problem!

[coleman758]

Delete Please - Sorry duplicate post