First Run of DB01 with Novak 6.5R and slipper

[built2scale]

Here's a pic of the 501x that I saw and a close up of the diff joint of the 501x over at Racing Factory.



http://www.racingfactory.fi/products...f-Joint-100853

[Spihc]

bullit2scal,

Just checked the 501x manual as well, and if the BF10 part (diff plate) for the 501x is still made of steel, as the DB01 one is, I dont see how on earth the "one peace" diff joints would solve the problem of the diff heating up to much causing the diff pulley to melt.

The only possible solution to the problem for me would be the following.
1. Assemble everything correct.

If that dont help.
2. Replace the diff balls to another material with less friction/heat development.
3. Replace the diff pulley to a more heat resistant material.

Hopefully someone who has more information then us newbies come's to our rescue and explains it to us, hehehe.

*********Edit*********
Should I try and remove the glue on the diff plates on the original diffs? To try and easy up the load of the rear diffs? Atm I dont know if my diffs are damaged, but I have heard a "slipping" sound at strong acceleration in the last run. Will deasemble it tonight to see how they look.
********/Edit*********

[jimmy]

Spihc - I think you're missing what's causing the problems as described here. The rings slipping on the plastic holders is what's causing problems, removing the glue will simply guarentee your diff will melt.
The 501X diff halves are better because the rings have more friction on the metal diff half and won't slip - so won't cause failure.

Assemble things properly and run the car - if you're racing or want to beef up the car then get the 501X diff halves for the rear of the car, sorted.

[DCM]

I agree with Jimbo, up to a 10.5/19t, the rear diff is fine, if built correctly (my three kids abuse there's enough, and they are still fine after 18 months), if you intend to race or put some more power through, for reliability, use the 501X one peice outdrives.

The reason why the diff melts, is the diff ring slipping on the plastic holder. This overheats the diff, which then melts the pulley. The 501X diff halves hold the plates in place, with no glue, they don't get warm, so don't melt the pulley (as long as they are set correctly).

[Spihc]

Jimmy, DCM.

A big thank you.

Now I understand not only what I need to replace, but also why It's necesary, I did miss the part with the 501x diffs having more friction.

I am using a 13*2 GM Evo II motor. With the motor I got a print out from a machine, like the dyna tune but it's in german so I cant tell whats what, 3 readings of rpm on it, 45137 rpm, 19105 rpm and 29558 rpm... and a bunch of watts. No matter, I guess I have a powerfull motor so I'll be forced to replace the rear diff.

Once again, thank you.

[cjm_2008]

I used a sicky yesterday to finish building my durga

well - I say finished... I've still got to cut out and paint the baldre shell that arrived on monday. and reading the threads about melted diffs makes me think I should be swapping the stock diff halves for the 501x items (already got them, just can't be arsed to swap!).

can anyone recommend a pinion size for a 10.5? I think the 23t kit pinion is a bit on the large side.

steve, if you're free tommorrow am / lunchtime, pop up to llandow. I'll be there doing some kart testing

[jimmy]

23t gives you 8.1 overall - looking at the Novak website and their gearing guide suggests 8.0 overall ratio for their 10.5 in a 4WD buggy, so going by that the 23t pinion is a good starting point.

[DCM]

Originally Posted by cjm_2008

I used a sicky yesterday to finish building my durga

well - I say finished... I've still got to cut out and paint the baldre shell that arrived on monday. and reading the threads about melted diffs makes me think I should be swapping the stock diff halves for the 501x items (already got them, just can't be arsed to swap!).

can anyone recommend a pinion size for a 10.5? I think the 23t kit pinion is a bit on the large side.

steve, if you're free tommorrow am / lunchtime, pop up to llandow. I'll be there doing some kart testing

I shall be going up to Talywain, dude, 4wd national for me, on Sunday, woop, there is a space in 4wd now...

[cjm_2008]

If I wasn't in devon all day sunday i'd be popping up to talywain too. i've still never seen a brca 1/10th offroad national event! should be good, especially if the weather sorts itself out, which is likely.

thanks for the info jimmy, i'll use the kit pinion. should be fairly quick. I was going to go and get a 6.5 but it seems like overkill when I'm only doing the odd club meeting.

[DCM]

the car will run far better, outdoors, on a 6.5 or 7.5, indoors, as long as you aren't pushing too hard, a 10.5 will be ok.

[Jay29]

alright mate what was the code for those diff halves you got.

[Jay29]

alright mate im new to this to , what was the code for those diff halves you got and where did you get them from. cheers