rb5

[Dhami1]

Hi Roger.. how r u mate? thanks for the response.

from what im reading shumacher seems the most popular choice in tyres.. but i am a bit concerned with a few people reporting to have problems with tyres not lasting long/deteriorating prematurely.?!?

... so how about ballistic buggy "pin" tyres..they look the same as the shumacher minipins?

oh and can you also explain the compounds?? what is soft and what is hardest in shumacher/bb tyres? (i.e in 8th proline m3 is soft m2 medium)

i will be racing at marstons to start with, there should be a heat there for buggys hopefully. dudley is another possiblity, do they have any jumps?

also i did fancy looking into kidderminster, as its the nearest dedicated 1/10 track, is there a website for this club?

Your set up for dudley will be appreciated... i have a few sets of springs i brought as a package.. i will look through them and let u know.

you should try your hand in 8th again.. the kyosho mp9 is a quick contender!!! awsome car. hopefully this 1/10 scale will help me a bit more in that catagory.. especially with throttle controll. lol

Sorry for so many questions.

Gurdeep

[RogerM]

PM me an email addy mate ...... too much to put in this thread!!!!

[niggs98]

with the updated rear end i have heard that people are running the longer rear shock shafts, what difference does this make to the car ????

[SimonW]

You only need the longer 54mm shafts if you want to run the middle hole on the arm, it gives you back the droop you lose when doing so. If you are running with the short tower and Gold bodies the shafts do bottom out on the top cap before the spring cup hits the bottom of the body, it's worth noting that the car bottoms out before this occurs. So far i have had no problems with my car, it would seem that the extra droop helps mid corner mostly when on power my inside rear wheel was always lighting up out of corners until i did this mod'.

HTH SimonW

[niggs98]

thanks simon was just what i wanted to know

[RogerM]

Nathan, never tried the short shock bodies / tower but always run the wider rear.

I run the 54mm shock shafts and always have done and never use anything other than the middle hole on the wishbone for offroad (outside hole indoors if the carpet is supper grippy). I have found that the droop balance is never quite right when running the 50mm shafts (kit) and even with the shock eyelet unscrewed a lot (to the point it's only just hanging on there) was never happy with the droop on the rear.

Probably ok if you only ever run the inside hole on the wishbones but I always found that the car was way too soft even on the stiffest springs in the inner hole!


As an aside you might be interested to know that by calculation moving in / out one hole on either front or rear wishbones is worth just about 2 full spring grades (e.g. if you run a bright yellow #65 spring then move the shocks in one hole you would need to change to a light green #75 spring to achive a similar wheel rate).
As I have always said I find the RB5 responds much better to being run a little stiffer than most other cars ..... probably due to how solid the chassis is.