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#41
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http://vintageteamaandl.com I bought the complete set with bearings. Art nr #2182. Much appreciated! Thanks Edd ![]()
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Cheers Joel |
#42
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Just saw this thread here and bringing it back up. The arms were machined from Nylon 6/6 and they absolutely are going to be one of the last things to break once the car is put on the track. How do I know? I have machined arms for several different cars over the last two years that are curently being raced all over the world including my own cars. Not one failure has been reported.
The car looks great and I would love to hear if you have gotten it on the track yet. |
#43
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![]() Looking forward to update this thread then. Until then I will work on different restore projects and also a modern crawler project. Cheers
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Cheers Joel |
#44
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Hello guys!
This car has become a long-term project but I have a mini update for you. Found some SG Coyote rear tires on Ebay (at least they were advertised like that) and temporary put them on some random five-spoke touring rims (that is too wide). Together with a yellow colored body this became an alternative look for the car. Emperors new groove? ![]()
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Cheers Joel |
#45
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Looks really aggressive now! Excellent.
Your pic is deceiving...looks like your rear left wheel is being suspended by a turnbuckle rod! Hardly can make out your white arm. |
#46
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I noticed that too! Thought my eyes were deceiving me! Great looking car.
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Team Associated Hobbywing SRT Reedy My feedback http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=63097 |
#47
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Haha! I will soon try an alternative background sheet for this project. A few weeks ago I saw a local store selling astro turf sheets that could be bought in smaller sizes like 1.5 x 1 meter. That will probably fix the issue I have now with white parts getting "stealthy".
Thanks for you comments!
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Cheers Joel |
#48
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Can you take a pic of the room/location where you take all of your awesome pics? Is it a white perspex box with strong backlight?
D |
#49
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I think he's done this on rc10talk?
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#50
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The picture below shows how simple the environment is. As you can see, I build the cars and take photos under the same light-setup. I set the camera on manual mode and have a setup ready that gives almost perfect result every time. Just a tad post production needed. I also use manual focus and a remote trigger for maximum stability while the shutter is open for 1/8 sec. To get a deep focus depth I use an aperture of f/16. ISO 100 for lowest grain. The desk and wall are covered with a white sheet of "oil cloth" (I think that's the correct translation). Easy to clean up as oil/grease etc does not penetrate the surface. Thanks for reminding me where I put it ![]() ![]()
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Cheers Joel |
#51
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Brilliant - very effective setup!
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#52
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Look what just arrived:
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#53
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Great Dan! That's the product I use. Are you building a runner too?
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Cheers Joel |
#54
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![]() The A&L steering kit will go in the car on the right very soon - to be run in Sydney @ Castle Hill in July when I'm on holiday ![]() ![]() |
#55
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This is just my personal opinion, but if I had a choice I'd go with ballraced Lazer ZX bellcranks instead for a runner
The way the A&L stuff goes together with the plastic nuts holding screw/shaft in place has a fragile feel to it but thats just me I would at bare minimum replace the lower nut with a nuloc metal one or even better use a metric screw and nut but like me if you have assembled it all its too late as the threads are cut in the plastic parts now
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___________________ Maxxum FF Ultima Pro Turbo Optima Mid SE Turbo Optima Mid SP Optima Mid Custom Special Lazer ZX Lazer ZX-R Lazer ZX-S |
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