TLR 22 Build and Set-ups

[PaulUpton]

Setup from mid south regional yesterday indoors on carpet/slippy floor, qualified 4th but had nightmare finals, was the highest placed losi 22

Front Suspension
Toe: 0'
Ride Height: wishbones slightly above level
Camber: 2'
Castor: 10'
Kick Angle: 20'
Oil: 32.5w
Piston: 6 hole 1.3mm tapered
Spring: Green
Spindle Type: Kit
Shock Limiters: 2mm
Shock Location: 2-middle
Bump Steer: 0mm
Camber Link: 1 - 1mm washers on tower, 0mm washers on hub

Rear Suspension
Chassis Configuration: Mid
Toe: 4'
Anti Squat: 1'
Roll Center: HRC
Ride Height: Driveshafts Level
Camber: 3'
Wheel Base: Long
Oil: 32.5w
Piston: 6 hole 1.3mm tapered
Spring: Orange
Shock Limiters: 0mm
Camber Link: 1-B (2mm under hub and tower ball joints)
Shock Locations: 2-inside

62g under 96mm lipo (which is about the same as a pack of saddles) so effectivley no extra weight.

Front tyres: yellow staggers
Rear Tyres: yellow mini pins (medium insert)

Speed passion LPF
Ocra 6.5t motor
Savox slim servo

[frogger]

Thanks for that Paul

[Nick]

I have been trying 3 hole pistons in the 22 over the last couple of weeks! I’m still experimenting with hole size but am finding the car to be a more stable and a little easier to drive. I’m currently running 1.45mm 3 hole front and 1.55mm 3 hole rears but am going to try a slightly larger hole this week for a little less pack.

Ran the car this weekend at Grantham A1 racing new Astro track and car felt real easy to drive over a 5min race but could still put in very fast lap times. The track is bumpy with several different Astros giving a change in grip level from high to low grip


My set up is listed below

Front
37.5W Losi oil
3 hole 1.45mm taper piston
Black spring
Shock position middle on arm 2 on tower
2mm limiter fitted
Camber link position 2
1mm under inner ball stud 2mm on outer ball stud
Kick angle 25 degrees
Caster 3 Degrees
Camber -.5 deg
Ride height 21mm
Spindle trailing
2mm spacer moved to front of caster block

Rear
32.5w Losi Oil
3 hole 1.55mm taper piston
Pink springs (yellow gave a little more side bite but pink was faster if you was smooth with it)
Shock position inside on arm 2 on tower
Camber link B with 1mm spacer 2 with 2mm spacer
4 degree HRC
1 Degree anti squat
Medium short wheel base
HB 7” V wing
Camber -2
Ride height 21mm
Losi 96mm stubby Lipo
No rear weight
Short Lipo kit with all small weight moved to front 156g total

Rear tyres Yellow mini spike 2
MRO Extra wide rear inserts
Yellow staged rib front Dremeled
No insert
LRP x12 7.5
24/76 gearing

[RDG 40]

Bumpsteer, i had a good set up at the last regional but just needed to up the shock oil slightly which ive now done.

Question bumpsteer.

Just rebuilt it i run 5deg caster with flat plate, should i run 2 mm bumpsteer or not?

I was and when compressed i get the wheel moving what eva thats called, without 2mm spacer out its linear all the way up what does the difference give me?

Russ

[mrspeedy]

If the wheel toes out during bump it means the steering goes away through the corner .... kinda makes it less aggressive ...

If there is no bump steer then at least the "feel" of the steering is the same throughout the corner ....

[RDG 40]

sweet, thatl be y mine did fell really good round the bends then, be interesting to see how it goes with no bumpsteer

[Bob_Zahn]

Originally Posted by mrspeedy

If the wheel toes out during bump it means the steering goes away through the corner .... kinda makes it less aggressive ...

If there is no bump steer then at least the "feel" of the steering is the same throughout the corner ....

I worked with the bump steer settings on Thursday night and I can confirm that adding spacers does for sure add bump out when front end is compressed and definitely makes the car more stable through the corner and when landing bigger jumps.

I also tried different axle heights and settled on a mid setting with 1mm on top and bottom. This is slightly higher setting than stock to gain some steering on exit. However any axle height changes will also affect the bump steer setting.

[PaulUpton]

Set up today from the mid south regional at herts nitro club astro track, qualified 2nd with a pretty competitive field was .5 sec of setting TQ and think was the only person to get into the 24 sec lap times

Front Suspension
Toe: 0'
Ride Height: wishbones slightly above level
Camber: 2'
Castor: 10'
Kick Angle: 20'
Oil: 32.5w
Piston: 6 hole 1.3mm tapered
Spring: Green
Spindle Type: Kit
Shock Limiters: 2mm
Shock Location: 2-middle
Bump Steer: 0mm
Camber Link: 1 - 2mm washers on tower, 0mm washers on hub

Rear Suspension
Chassis Configuration: Mid
Toe: 3'
Anti Squat: 1'
Roll Center: LRC
Ride Height: Driveshafts Level
Camber: 3'
Wheel Base: Long
Oil: 32.5w
Piston: 6 hole 1.3mm tapered
Spring: Orange
Shock Limiters: 0mm
Camber Link: 1-B (2mm under hub and tower ball joints)
Shock Locations: 2-inside

62g under 96mm lipo and rear losi weight

Front tyres: yellow staggers
Rear Tyres: yellow mini pins YES MINI PINS ON ASTRO (medium insert)

Speed passion LPF
Ocra 6.5t motor
Savox slim servo

[Razer]

My Nordics setup Weirdest track ever, short haired astro with grip that I don't even think can be compared to uncut minipins on carpet... Had two rows left on front pins, but had to go uncut stagger, mins and cuts were too much

Qualified fourth, ended up 6th, fastest lap in the last two finals. Without some of the dirty driving I think the podium was very much within reach, but shit happens

Some amazingly quick locals with the 22, hope they post some setups as well!

Also, here's a cool pic from practice, before it got converted to midmotor during the night...

[Marc0]

Hello,

I am quite lost with kick angle and caster. Is there a difference in using
- 20° kick angle + 10° caster block
- 25° kick angle + 5° caster block

Sorry if it has been already explained, I did not find an answer by searching

[Martyn (Bomber)]

What is the difference between running 20' and 25' rake shim in the front?

It effects total caster 20 kick and 10 deg caster = 30 in total
It will handle in a different way than say 25 kick and 5 caster = 30 in total

This can change the front of the car a lot


I know that more rake/less caster will handle differently than less rake/more caster, more caster gives you more exit steering, less gives you more turn in, but what about rake?

Rake will affect the amount of weight shift forward under deceleration - just like anti squat but in reverse.
More rake = less weight shift forward
Less rake = more weight shift forward

[racingdwarf]

Originally Posted by Marc0

Hello,

I am quite lost with kick angle and caster. Is there a difference in using
- 20° kick angle + 10° caster block
- 25° kick angle + 5° caster block

Sorry if it has been already explained, I did not find an answer by searching

The kick up has to be added to total caster, if you use the 25 shim + the std kit 10degree caster blocks you are running a total of 35, most would consider that a bit high so most run (including me) run the 20 degree shim with std blocks
But if you start to play with the optional caster blocks ( if you can get hold of some of them) you can start to shuffle things about to sute you, as every one likes there car diffrent.

have a hunt about as I think there is a thred writen by the old dog about this

[Gnarly Old Dog]

I think Martyn has explained it pretty good above.
The Kick Angle (aka the rake) helps to resist weight transfer during cornering which I have found helps to smooth the corner transition out of the bend.
If you can't get hold of the 5 deg blocks currently, try the 3 degree ones - it's worth playing with and (IMO) the 25 degree kick angle does make the car feel smoother throughout the entire turn but, as RacingDwarf has pointed out, 25 + 10 deg can make the car feel a bit too unbalanced.
It seems that around 30deg caster in total is about right - I prefer 25 deg rake + 5 deg caster block as opposed to the 20 + 10. If / When I break my 5 deg blocks, I'll go to the 3 degree before I go back to 20 + 10.

@RacingDwarf - Dave - can you post your rear motor set up please? I hear its ace

[Marc0]

Thanks for your answers ! I had a chance to get a 2nd 22 for spare, that came with 0 et 3 caster blocks, I have put the 3 ones with 25 kick angle shim, I really prefer the car like this on an astro track.

Thanks again guys

[jonathan may]

Built up a 22 front shocks with 2x56 and 2x55 holes and green springs is it normal for it to be quite stiff or does the 22 like the hard front.

[Gnarly Old Dog]

Originally Posted by jonathan may

Built up a 22 front shocks with 2x56 and 2x55 holes and green springs is it normal for it to be quite stiff or does the 22 like the hard front.

It helps to round the piston edges a touch but I'm happy with 2 x 55 + 2 x 56 holes in the front of my mid car with 30wt and green springs.

Best thing is to try it and make the call yourself - maybe ready yourself a set of 4 x 55 hole pistons and try the 2 types back to back. It's all a case of trial and error to get to something that suits your driving style and the track(s) you race at.

[jonathan may]

whats the best way to round the edges and how much.

[Gnarly Old Dog]

Put them carefully on a mandrel in a dremel and just touch the upper and lower edges with some 600 grit wet n dry. Be careful not to reduce the overall diameter - you're aiming to just chamfer / radius the square edges.

If you have an old Losi piston - use that as a visual guide to determine what the radius should look like.

IMO it just helps the small bump performance and helps make the shock a little more active on our types of track.

[liam]

Has anyone tried a hydra drive on there 22. I thought maybe this would be good to increase rear end traction under acceleration

[highlander]

Originally Posted by liam

Has anyone tried a hydra drive on there 22. I thought maybe this would be good to increase rear end traction under acceleration

id love to get hold of a hydra drive to try ... if anyone has one up for grabs pm me....