Yokomo Bmax2 M

[Juicy74]

Thanks for the replies guys... however as I understand it, both answers seem to be opposite of each other?

"help if your buggy is too loose" which means the narrow mounts should reduce steering response?

"making the car more nimble and responsive on the front end" meaning it should increase steering response?

[mekios]

I have a question for those who have build the car in Rear Motor or anyone who wants to answer.
Speedo on the shelf above the battery or on the side? I mounted it on the side but it's a really tight fit (i have the HW V3 which is a rather small speedo) exposing the speedo on the side.
Judging by the space on the shelf it will be a hard job getting the wirring done.

So, what's your opinion and/or suggestion? (Photos are more than welcome )

[Bastos]

If you have to choose a good configuration for rear motor, it is that one :


Speedo/Shorty battery/Reicever/Servo on line...( I haven't got photos of mine...winter period...Mid motor rules )

Rear motor is the king on slippery tracks...with the shorty battery centered.
It depend on which battery you are using...but the Bmax2 works well "light" with shorty battery.

[Stringerhot]

Originally Posted by s22jgs

following on from the talk about steering.

I removed both spacers from front shocks, went long wheel base and also moved rear shocks to middle hole on the tower and i had bags of steering.

Hi Steve this set up you've used what surface was it on polished floor?carpet

[smokes]

Originally Posted by PeterC

Hi, I just bought one of these and can not wait to build it. I haven't found a great deal of information or support for this buggy. Looks like only a small group of people are running it.

Do you have any tips to help me with the assembly or durability? Any help is appreciated.

Seem be be a fair amount of drivers running them at batley. Just build as per kit instructions and run it, get the ae fron axles.

[OneKiwi]

Would the wheel attachments from a durango 210 fronts/rears work?

[AndyG]

front - yes, straight fit.

Rears - no. After you've put the TD / Tresrey 14mm hex onto the driveshaft you've a) not got enough thread coming through the wheel to get a nut on, and b) you've got a big gap between the hex and the hub - the drive shaft therefore floats.

Wonder if a TD driveshaft would work?

[s22jgs]

Originally Posted by Stringerhot

Hi Steve this set up you've used what surface was it on polished floor?carpet

not running that anymore mate

[jonathan may]

what springs are a good starting point for carpet

[s22jgs]

Originally Posted by jonathan may

what springs are a good starting point for carpet

Run it kit first

[zzztech]

Originally Posted by Juicy74

Thanks for the replies guys... however as I understand it, both answers seem to be opposite of each other?

"help if your buggy is too loose" which means the narrow mounts should reduce steering response?

"making the car more nimble and responsive on the front end" meaning it should increase steering response?

Your rear end will be more stable compared to the front end after narrowing front.

[jonathan may]

What shock oil and pistons are peeps using. I have number 2 piston 35w oil and yokomo blue spring but it feels far to soft

[highlander]

Originally Posted by jonathan may

What shock oil and pistons are peeps using. I have number 2 piston 35w oil and yokomo blue spring but it feels far to soft

john just use the std set up as Steve has said....

you havent even run the car yet

start with the kit setup its a fair allround starting point thats why yoko put it to the kit................

[PeterC]

So I've built the kit up and had a stellar time. Everything drops in nicely with no hand fitting required.

This is my first offroad car. My experience is only limited to mod 1/10 sedan so I'm planning to run 17.5 non-timing offroad in rear motor configuration.

My questions:

Seeing how this car is marketed primarily in MR configuration, how does the base setup fare when running in rear motor config?
For instance, I've looked at the Yatabe setup for clay and although it is in MR config, the shock oil is significantly lower viscosity (22.5wt vs stock 400cst).

What kind of FDR should I be looking at for 17.5 non-timing? (Motor: Reedy Sonic)

Background:
I'm going to be running the car in southern California mainly at 2 tracks:

1) WCRC(Site of 2013 Reedy Race of Champions)
-indoor
-hard packed clay
-medium to high traction
2)IERC
-indoor
-medium packed clay known to clog tires
-low to medium traction

Per recommendations from fellow racers, I've mounted the following tires that will work at both tracks:
-Rear Proline Suburb MC
-AKA Red insert
-Front Proline Scrubs MC
-AKA Red insert

Any setup and driving tips no matter how seemingly small or insignificant are more than welcome and appreciated! Please share your knowledge here in or PM. I am eager to learn from all of you.

thanks

[J'MM'N]

As your in California these two threads may be of help to you.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...gy-thread.html

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...ax2-mr-rs.html

[PeterC]

Originally Posted by J'MM'N

As your in California these two threads may be of help to you.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...gy-thread.html

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...ax2-mr-rs.html

Thanks! I have looked at those threads too!

[mes]

IIRC I used 72/28 as a starting point for my 17.5 motor. Cannot comment on California tracks, but on clay I mostly use red springs in the front, blues in the rear. Stock oil is quite ok, give it a try!

[zzztech]

I too vouch for the red spring in front. The stock front springs are too soft.
I have 60wt Losi oil in front with the 6 holes pistons and felt good. tried 450cst and didn't like it. Rear is 350cst oil

[s22jgs]

It really depends on track. Oil and springs that work on one track won't elsewhere so don't get too hung up on what others are running. Its a new car and people have different styles. The best example of this is the setups of the worlds top boys. Try one and you might hate it.

The best thing you can do is go to track with a range of oils and springs and just try different things

[PeterC]

Originally Posted by mes

IIRC I used 72/28 as a starting point for my 17.5 motor. Cannot comment on California tracks, but on clay I mostly use red springs in the front, blues in the rear. Stock oil is quite ok, give it a try!

Thank you. I did order a set of red fronts yesterday as well as another kit for my friend. We also got your recommended bmax4 wheel spacer and B4 rear hex.

Originally Posted by zzztech

I too vouch for the red spring in front. The stock front springs are too soft.
I have 60wt Losi oil in front with the 6 holes pistons and felt good. tried 450cst and didn't like it. Rear is 350cst oil

Which piston? The black or white? Taper side up or down? 1.0mm vs 1.1mm. I have only one pair of the black pistons, last one they had. How did they affect the front end?

Originally Posted by s22jgs

It really depends on track. Oil and springs that work on one track won't elsewhere so don't get too hung up on what others are running. Its a new car and people have different styles. The best example of this is the setups of the worlds top boys. Try one and you might hate it.

The best thing you can do is go to track with a range of oils and springs and just try different things

Plan to do just that but I would like the best starting point and go from there so I can save setup time and concentrate on driving. I want to make sure the car is not totally undrivable straight out of the box. We have two kits now and we're going to test back to back different things. We are excited!