210 rear camber ?

[luniemiester]

Lower the inside and put washers under the hub ballstud to increase the angle

[steveproracing]

Put very simplistically
Longer links = more roll. Ie feel softer in the corner
Shorter links = less roll. Ie feel stiffer in the corner

Take a turnbuckle of set length and move both inner and outer ball further out the more rotation u will get.
The further in u move said link the more the rear end will feel locked in


Ball height is what alters camber change
The lower the inner ball / the higher the outer ball the more camber change u will have.
As regards camber change the main objective for this is to stop the wheel outer wheel going positive in roll mid corner
Ie when the car is cornering and is rolling over and putting its weight over the outer rear wheel u don't want that wheel to have positive camber at that point.
You can't measure this correctly but u can guess u are in the right ball park by turning the front wheels left then grabbing the car at the rear and twisting the car to the right to simulate weight transfer then see if the right rear wheel has not got positive camber. If your wheel has positive camber u need more change


Hope this helps

[andys]

Hi Steve.

Superb answer

Pretty much qualified what I thought re the positive camber issue mid corner.

Watching the 210's going around Chadderton, the rear end looks really odd as you can clearly see this positive camber issue !

It's what I originally posted about, and what I was seeking a remedy for.

[Timee80]

I agree with what steve has said, but just to add, if you move a short rear link more inboard at both the hub and tower, when the back end does let go you will need the reactions of a jedi to catch it. I tried this on my x2c at worksop. Off power the back end didnt want to roll at all and pushed massively. When i tried to throttle on hard(ish) coming out of a corner though, the car was trying its best to swap ends. (probably ok when grip is high)
If i use a shorter rear link i always go lighter on oil and springs as the short link makes it feel stiffer IMO
I would be happy to here from someone more knowledgable than me if i am wrong. I love these sort of threads because i learn loads from them.

[reg]

Originally Posted by Timee80

I agree with what steve has said, but just to add, if you move a short rear link more inboard at both the hub and tower, when the back end does let go you will need the reactions of a jedi to catch it. I tried this on my x2c at worksop. Off power the back end didnt want to roll at all and pushed massively. When i tried to throttle on hard(ish) coming out of a corner though, the car was trying its best to swap ends. (probably ok when grip is high)
If i use a shorter rear link i always go lighter on oil and springs as the short link makes it feel stiffer IMO
I would be happy to here from someone more knowledgable than me if i am wrong. I love these sort of threads because i learn loads from them.

interesting,iv been really struggling with my car(not a durango)at worksop along with others with the same car,and on med grip,it does the same and will spin out,i thought going stiffer on the rear would make it worse,i find the car needs to driven hard to get the grip,as soon as the grip goes and you have to drive slower it doesnt handle the same,not sure if this is due to the solid ali chassis,on high grip its awsome,if i bang a new set of tires on its ok but i want to try and get more mechanical grip to the rear as the tires give up grip quite quickly

[Timee80]

going harder will make it worse. I was just experimenting at the last round because i had some glitching issues preventing me from qualifying anywhere decent. I used the chance to have a play and see what happens instead.
I normally like to run a longer link at the rear because it feels more predictable and allows more roll. Ive always been told not to change the link lengths too much from front to rear as well because one end stops the other from doing its job properly.

[andys]

Had a play with the 210 rear and basically what I've found is that with the washers in place in the inner link, the rear camber change is negligible to my eye and camber gauge.

Removing both washers gives the car an additional 2 degrees of negative camber when the rear suspension is fully depressed.

So my car is set on the bench with 2 degrees on the rear, and under full compression it's 4 degrees. No way I can see to alter it to get more camber change.

I would have thought that the stock setup with 2 washers shouldn't work too well as there is no camber change as the car corners ? This tallies with what Steve mentioned in his post about weight transfer / positive camber during cornering.

I've taken the washers out and I'll see how it goes without them.

For the record, (I know it's a very different car)

My X6, with x speed hangers and the longest rear link, with the car at 2 degrees camber on the bench, isn't far off 6 degrees when the suspension is fully depressed.
I know it grips like shit to a blanket...

[reg]

Originally Posted by Timee80

going harder will make it worse. I was just experimenting at the last round because i had some glitching issues preventing me from qualifying anywhere decent. I used the chance to have a play and see what happens instead.
I normally like to run a longer link at the rear because it feels more predictable and allows more roll. Ive always been told not to change the link lengths too much from front to rear as well because one end stops the other from doing its job properly.

thanks for clearing that up,ill give the longer link ago and see how it goes