Setup Help

[Shimmy]

Originally Posted by /tobys

I think Lunsford supply the ones that come in the X6 EC:

https://www.lunsfordracing.com/mm5/m...gory_Code=BALL

Should be available from all good Lunsford stockists!

HTH

Ta mate, do you kmow the difference between the more expensive 1/10 and the ither cheaper options?

Also they look like they have a shorter shank under the ball itself or is that just the picture?
Would be nice if they are actually, could try a higher roll centre in the rear if that were the case,

What kind of difference does it make running the hubs with toe in?

[Chippy96]

Originally Posted by Shimmy

Ta mate, I'll keep that in mind for now, its not that big an issue to spend that much on hubs at the moment.


I moved the camber links outwards (same length as before just 2-b in front and 2-c in rear, this made a nice difference, steering is more linear and consistent, feels like it can be pushed a little harder.

I also rebuild my shocks the other night and moved them around/tried different springs (same pistons and oils though), also put a bit more droop on (especially the front)

It feels a bit better at the moment but has very little on power steering, I think I'll have to take out that front droop (although I havn't ran it on the track since I have done it).

I'm hoping I can get out to the track tomorrow and test it out (been raining today).
Either way it is feeling much better than before.

Also, does anyone know where I can get ball studs that have a hex fitting in the end, a few of them are in really awkward places and I have actually cut a slot into the 4 inner camber links to move them, before it took me forever to move them around.

You can get them from DMS,they are the ones in the X Factory section,available in different lengths,

[GML]

Originally Posted by Shimmy

What kind of difference does it make running the hubs with toe in?

It adds TOE OUT to a X6...

Inboard toe in reduce also wheelbase, outboard toe in doesn't.

[YoungChazz]

Remember that on the X-Cars you reverse the rear hubs, putting the one marked "R" on the left. If you do that with an aftermarket hub that has toe-in, you will get toe-out.

[The_doctor]

YEA as Chazz said you reverse the hubs!!!!

if your running them in the b4 manner then they will make the camber link rub on the wheel !!!!!

and people will taught you because you cant read instructions properly!!!!!!

Ive tryed the 0.5 hubs with 3 degrees toe block and it made the car grip into the corner then break loose then grip.....went back to 4 degree block and car was great!!!! the 0.5 toe in locks the car but is inconstant!!

as Ozracer said inboard toe in works different to out board toe in!!!!!
stick to the kit block Chazz and Paul know what they r doing!!!!!

[/tobys]

Are there any aftermarket toe-in blocks that deliver 3.5 toe-in? Would be nice to try when you need to free the rear end up a little but 3 degree's is too much...

[Shimmy]

Well a little update... (this may be a little long winded.. )

After applying the tips from this thread and have an easier car to drive we finished our 1st year for the christmas break only to re-do our track.



More pics from racing here...
https://picasaweb.google.com/1127157...eat=directlink

We just had our first meet this sunday gone on the new track which seems to be pretty good (at first I hated it but it grew on me).

However with my X6 Sq, I had nothing but problems, just couldnt do anything with it, almost always pushed big time and when it didnt do that it just spun out on the spot (and I was conciously being very gentle on the throttle).
It just handled like crap all around.
I changed a quite a few settings (just trying to get started in some general area) with only very small improvements.

So, I decided to buy a XXX CR (still waiting for it to be delivered) for next to nothing, and having a XXX-T I assumed it would have similar traits and be very forgiving)

But not wanting to give up on the X6, I decided to try some extra weight.
I put some just behind the servo (and a little down the left hand side of the servo) and a little in the rear left pocket next to the gears (these were more for balancing, as it was quite a bit heavier on the right side).

But the big one I added was a thick plate of lead under the lipo.
Was a bit heavy so I rebuilt the shocks with more pack (3B up front and 2C in the rear) with 35 wt oil in the front and 30 in the rear, I then put Kyosho yellow on the front with light greens on the rear.

I went and tested it yesterday on the track, and even though I forgot my other tyres (had near bald goose bumps and bobcats on) but it handles like it's on rails now.
I can really push it through the corners, I can accelerate out of them without fear, it's really stable and predictable, has tons of steering and grip (forward and side).
And the more surprising part is that my tyres are quite smooth now but they handled brilliantly (best I've ever had it).

The one main downside (if thats what you wanna call it), is that it's very speed sensitive, it's gotta either be going very slow or fast, anything in between and it just pushes and snaps around.

I actually like it like this though, it really suits my driving style, and I know if I push or spin out I'm making too big a mistake or using a bad line.

At the moment I think there's only a couple of small things to tinker to see if I can make it a bit easier to drive.
It certainly is fast to drive now though.

It's time to go hunting a Durango, haha.

Now... what to do with that XXX CR.

[YoungChazz]

Hopefully you can unload the CR for what you've got in it.

Track looks pretty flat but fast -- straight lines through both chicanes on the left side. Possibly some dust if the sun shines. 6 Squared should like those conditions a lot.

With every car, it takes a while to get the set-up that's right for you, and then modify that slightly to suit each track or lay-out.