Car cuts out after a shock from a jump tekin rs pro??

[Randy p]

OK, do you have access to another servo? When you installed the receiver cap which port did you put it into? What cap was it?

[cs8sz]

Hi,

Me again in answer to the post higher up the thread from Randy, I have steering at all times, In Terms of how long into the run seems random I have it happen after just 30 seconds and sometimes at the end, middle etc, I have checked and it isn't thermalling. Speed was fine before the shut down and after when it found the neurtal postion the only solution I found was to not get any air at all.

It is really bugging me that is for sure.

Thanks for your help.

Chris

[cs8sz]

Gosh you are fast.

Unfortunatley not, I have access to another Savox servo if that is what you mean from my touring car, but the shut down ocurrs without the use of any steering??

Not sure which port I plugged the capacitor into to be honest, it was one that I had left from the Spektrum days.

Thanks Chris

[cs8sz]

Sorry I also forgot to say that I did try a run without fans in it, and it still cut out after after the second jump test. It is also impossible to test in the pits which is even worse.

Thanks Again

Chris

[Jamie.T]

My set-up was:

TRF502
Rs pro with latest software (Vega 2.something)
Savox 1251 and tried futaba
Intellect Ib4200, also tried speedpower 4200
Spektrum sr3001 receiver, also tried Sr3500
Powercap is a 300Uf 16v, also tried genuine spektrum one.

But, i did try another ESC, and guess what, NO problem. What does that suggest??

Im sorry Randy, but i find it very difficult to understand how your writing off the fact that the Tekin is at fault, i understand your clearly biased but when 2 different people transferred their gear into non-shaft driven cars and suddenly all problems go away, surely that would suggest something. And the fact that when i used another brand of ESC (lrp) in my 502, it also cured the problem??

[Randy p]

I am not saying that the esc can't be the issue. What I am saying is that the fact that the car is a shaft driven one has NOTHING to do with this concern. The esc could care less what drivetrain is in the car.

To the esc a load is a load, period. What esc did you try?

If you only have access to a Savox servo you can bypass the bec circuit to eliminate the servo as the issue. This is done by taking a line from B+ and wiring straight to the servo's red wire on the servo lead. This red wire must be removed from the servo's connector.

[Jamie.T]

Originally Posted by Randy p

I am not saying that the esc can't be the issue. What I am saying is that the fact that the car is a shaft driven one has NOTHING to do with this concern. The esc could care less what drivetrain is in the car.

Im sorry Randy, but i have to disagree, the fact that the issue was resolved on 2 separate cars of a different brand by just switching to belt drive is more than just a coincidence .

Also, im not really too bothered anymore as i no longer have the problem and i love my Rs pro, but nevertheless an issue is clearly there and needs addressing.

[Randy p]

I'm sure that explanation works for you. However it doesn't for me. The RS Pro works just fine in the B44, ZX5, Durango, Tamiya and many other shaft driven 4wd cars... so why only these two cases?

I'm listening but don't see that two cars create and "issue."

[Jamie.T]

Its not 2 issues and you know that, DCM has told me that these issues have been raised in the past and hes discussed them with you to try and resolve to no avail !!

As i said, i dont wish to continue discussing it as the issue has now been resolved for me, but i only raised the point as the creater of this topic is suffering from similar issues.

[DCM]

I would be happy for it to be a coincidence as to chassis format, have you had any issue like this your side of the pond, Randy? Just the only time I have heard of it has only been in shaft drive, and belt is still pretty popular in the UK.

[Randy p]

First I've even heard of a "Shafty" issue to be honest. Hell I chuckled out loud at the notion when I saw this on the Tekin forum at first...

Something is being missed here.

[cs8sz]

Hi randy,

Right thank you for your help I will try swapping the servo and hotwire it, can they take the extra voltage?

I am also going to test my car around my street with a nice ramp!

Thanks Chris

[Randy p]

I know most of the Savox servos are rated for 7.2 v use but double check yours.

[dodgydiy]

one point worth noting, belts will absorb some impact and may slightly cushion the kick delivered through the drive train back to the motor on landing from a jump. this could produce slightly less of a sudden spike in voltage and current. it might be worth if possible turning off the failsafe settings for your receiver to see if the failsafe is being upset by this, also could the speedo be upset by this and drop into failsafe. if this was happening then it wouldnt do it for everyone as all driving styles are different, some people are far more gentle on the throttle than other etc...

[Randy p]

That statement is vaild in regards to driving style,etc.

The RS however has no "failsafe" in regard to current draw other than voltage cut off. This of course is entirely possible under huge current draws. This is why I'm asking about runtime,etc.

A quick test would to simply turn off the low votlage protection and run the car. If the problem is gone, you've found the issue.

[InsideLineModels]

I've run this speedo for over 3 years in 2 different shaft drive cars (Aero and now Pred) and have never had this issue. I've also used Orion, savox and now Spektrum servos.

Next wednesday we'll have another look Chris, and i'll try and be ready to have a quick look at what error lights are displying on the speedo during shutdown and then report back to Rp.

I'm sure we'll sort this out.

Kev

[cs8sz]

Hi Chris here again!

I have the holly grail I have the error codes! After jumping my car out the front for ages I got the codes so here it is:

After the intial impact the DB light flashes for a few seconds (no clue what that is) After that 3 light flash up, one in the middle and 2 either side on the outside after then an audible beep, then the speed is reset and find the neutral etc and you are off.

Also it requires a light jump not a massive impact where I broke my speedo fan!

Any help to know what these are would be great, as the manual is no help!

Chris

[DCM]

Looks like the normal arming sequence that, mate.

[msxmre]

Well not wanting to look like i'm siding with Tekin but i run Tekin RS Pro in my Tamiya TRF502X, TRF201, my sons TRF201 and Durango DEX410 and i can honestly say that i've not had 1 instance of problems or bother with any of these speedos. I think that they're genuinely the best out there at the moment and the size of the speedo is what attracted me to it especially TRF502X and Durango, not much room. In any walk of life there's people who unfortunately don't get on with certain products, Hell i ran LRP Speedos for years and then went SXX Stockspec and absolutely hated it, hence the reason i'll never touch another LRP speedo.
I hope you get to the bottom of the problem.
Scotty......../

[DCM]

Thats ok Scotty, I run Tekins in all mine and kids cars and they never miss a beat to.