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  #21  
Old 05-08-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andys View Post
Those captive cvd pins where the cvd / outdrive sits inside the bearing like on 8th cars would be nice.
I think it was like that on the 210 I saw ?
I also noticed them in the spec and pictures. That would be good, and possibly a case of uplifting the design to have commonality of spares with the 210 going forward. Like the 14mm hex, not essential, but a good improvement all the same.
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  #22  
Old 05-08-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by captainlip View Post
I'd love to say something here but have to keep stum
Maybe it comes pre-built by Phil? Ensuring all essential components are assembled to exacting standards, threads stripped, bearings collapsed, shims left in the bag and any old seals found in the spares box used etc, etc..

It could be the CLCBDFS Edition... Please work out the acronym for yourselves

Only pulling your leg Phil..
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  #23  
Old 05-08-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by captainlip View Post
I'd love to say something here but have to keep stum
You could tell us about those chinese bearings made in germany.
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  #24  
Old 05-08-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dazzler View Post
It could be he CLCBDFS Edition... Please work out the acronym for yourselves

Only pulling your leg Phil..
I think I've worked that out...
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  #25  
Old 05-08-2011
captainlip captainlip is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dazzler View Post
Maybe it comes pre-built by Phil? Ensuring all essential components are assembled to exacting standards, threads stripped, bearings collapsed, shims left in the bag and any old seals found in the spares box used etc, etc..

It could be he CLCBDFS Edition... Please work out the acronym for yourselves

Only pulling your leg Phil..
Actually daz that's very good
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  #26  
Old 06-08-2011
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You need to change your location lippy!
Your confusing people.
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  #27  
Old 06-08-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Culetto View Post
Best performing 4wd buggy .... ever! But what would make it better? I guess these all apply to both the buggy and the desc410

2mm longer rear center propshaft so if you bellyflop a big jump onto the chassis you dont spend the rest of the race in front wheel drive.

Aluminum bulkheads front and rear as an upgrade, or just stronger plastic, etc. The rears can crack and the fronts always seem to strip where the top plate screws in from the side.

4 holes on the center propshafts for the CVD's so when the holes wear you can double the life of them. I know, seems simple, but they only last so long before the slop starts bugging me, lol.

Stronger inner hinge pins, front and rear, the only saving grace of these is when you do bend one they are cheap to replace, would rather not keep replacing them though, lol.
Buy Tresery ones they come with 4 holes and are cheaper than the Durango ones.
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  #28  
Old 08-08-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dpackster1980 View Post
Buy Tresery ones they come with 4 holes and are cheaper than the Durango ones.
The aluminium ones ? I have made 4 runs of 15 minutes, and the 4 holes are dead, on a very high traction track
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  #29  
Old 08-08-2011
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I agree, Tresrey alloy shafts are not good at all . I had a brand new set on a second hand car and thought I'd run them, but they were wearing from race 1. Save your money, kit is best. The four hole idea is valid though.
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  #30  
Old 08-08-2011
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Yes the tresrey ali centre shafts are crap, I only used them on a 13.5 indoors and they wore very quickly, kits 2mm is best!
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  #31  
Old 08-08-2011
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I'm "happy" to see that I'm not the only one having this issue. I thought my slipper settings was too hard...
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