Secrets of the 22

[reg]

Originally Posted by russmini

Again, i'm totally different to everyone else.

I seem to keep coming back to a Light car.

1540g is where mine is and i love it. Had some problems yesterday at Cov on grass, but a lot of that was because i was driving like a Tw**

I will at some point try it a lot heavier, around 1740g is what i keep seeing, but for now i like mine light.

im the same,iv tried 1700+ and it seemed to dig in to much,iv got 80g under lipo and 25g around the motor and its spot on for me

[markwilliamson2001]

Well after racing against the Pookster on Sunday, I would listen to his advice, as his was one of the best, and most consistent in my heat during qualifying....of the 22's.

And I do think that the kit wing is way too small!!
What motors are people running in 2wd? I found my SP 7.5 very consistent and easy, but a little slow. Would like to try a SP 6.5 with small rotor in to compare :-)

[Chris56]

Im really liking this thread - im finding that the "build and setups" thread has lots of good info/setups, but is now very overloaded now due to the volume of posts., but this thread is giving me the advice I need without having to trawl through pages of posts.

Keep the good advice coming guys

What camber link settings/ball stud spacers are people using?

Although my car is handling pretty well, im still suffering from occasional rear-end grip problems (mostly racing grass/astro)

[mrspeedy]

Secret place for lead ....

There's a gap under the gearbox where it mounts to the chassis, between the rear hinge pins, with some careful bashing you should be able to fit around 14grms of lead in there

[AfroP]

I've found that drilling out the kit 56 shock pistons to 6 holes is a very good idea on the front shocks

[stegger]

Got this from RCTECH and is a very detailed guide for the 22
Thanks to Muggydude for all the hard work.

The Team Losi Racing 22 Guide!

Everything and anything you will want to know about your new 22, the most (R)evolutionary 1/10 buggy that’s a result of eating, breathing, and sleeping RC for the past 30 years. Please feel free to send me comments and suggestions to add to it!

Index:

1. Build Tips From the Experts
2. The Build
3. Problems you May Experience, and What to do
4. Custom Mods, and Upgrades
5. Pro Setups & Sheets
6. Completing Your Ride
7. The Log



1. Build Tips From the Experts.

I have been lucky enough to talk to Dustin Evans and Matt Chambers, and Dyno Dan (the designer of the buggy) has also been so kind as to answer questions on this forum, as well as Casey Peck, Casper, Frank Root, and other TLR drivers and experts. Their Opinions and Tips are sprinkled throughout the guide.

Dyno Dan’s Personal Tips on the build:

22 Build Tips:

1) Place 1 small drop of CA glue on Diff nut before inserting into plastic T-nut. Use a 1.5mm wrench or .050" as a "Skewer" to hold the nut while inserting into the plastic nut. Place locknut with nylon facing upward and insert 1.5mm wrench onto nylon portion. This allows you to easily place nut into plastic T-nut.

2) Do not over tighten Diff Screw!!!!!!!. Snug the screw down until spring is collapsed, and then back off 1/16th turn

3) Always put a small amount of Silicone diff grease between diff rings and outdrives.

4) Do not forget the RED spacer the goes on the input shaft before installing the slipper plates. Why Red? A Red spacer means that it is a transmission part not to be confused with the other spacers. I thought it would help identify spacers since there are so many that are close in size.

5) Be careful when tightening down all king pin screws. The kingpin screw has a small radius on the underside of the screw head. Do not over tighten and putting a small chamfer (using a hobby knife or other tool) is recommended.

6) Turn Buckles: Use a body reamer to knock off flashing to help thread engagement.

7) Shocks: The lower cap can be loosened up to 1.5 turns to adjust friction in the O-rings. A neat adjustment!

8) Placing a very small amount of locktite between rear inner hinge pin/hinge pin ball/aluminum pivots is a good way to keep the tolerances like new.

9) Do not forget the M3 screw hidden under the rear shock tower that goes into the rear camber block!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

10) Apply blue locktite to the front wheel screw for the first couple of wheel changes. This will allow the locktite to accumulate and act like a locknut.

11) The small screw that fastens the rear toe plate pivot to the chassis is meant to keep the rear suspension in place while removing the transmission for diff service. There is no need to remove the motor guard (rear motor config.) when removing the transmission. Remove trans mount screws and simply pull the motor guard back and remove transmission, leaving motor guard in place.

12) Servo alignment / tie rod / End Point Adjustment is very critical. The 22 has the most steering throw of any buggy. It is not uncommon to end up with very high EPA settings!!!!

I hope you all enjoy the build! Please ask any questions and I hope this info helps!


Casey Peck was so Kind as to Post a 22 build walk trough with pictures! Enjoy.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...walk-thru.html

[stegger]

Bladders in the Shocks, or Not?

When building my car, I asked Matt Chambers if he thought I could tell the difference between building the shocks with and without the bladders. He recommended building them with the bladders, as they are easier to build and I probably won’t tell that much of a difference. I would imagine this would hold true for 90% of the people out there. I can always cut them later. I also recommend picking up a second set of bladders, they are cheap and that way you can switch back if you try the cut ones and don’t like them.


Shorty Lipo?

Almost all of the Losi Pros are now running the short 3800mah 60C 2s lipo in their cars. This brings it closer to minimum weight, and Matt Chambers reported his lap times dropped almost ½ of a second when switching from a standard pack to the 96mm pack. Some may find that it makes the car harder to drive consistently with the pack, but it is always better to be able to add extra weight where you want, where as you can’t remove or control the weight with a standard lipo. You don’t need the shorty pack, but if you are buying new lipos regardless, I highly suggest picking up the shorter packs. Either way, you can run them without weight, or add back the weight they lost in the places you want. Win-Win Situation!

Blue Screw's Tips:

Polish the A-arm kingpins so they almost "float" into the arm to avoid having to brake the arms in.
Put a drop of glue on the slipper Pads to hold them onto the spur gear.


For all of you Losi guys, if there are any tips I did not get here or in “The Build” section that you would like to add, PM me!


2. The Build

Everything you need to know when building your new kit!

General:

Do not use an electric wrench on the build. This is a sure way to strip out screw heads or the threads themselves. Use a quality wrench set, such as losi’s with Tini hex tips.

Wrenches Needed for the build:

.050”, 1.5mm, 2.0mm (Or 5/64), 2.5mm
Hex Wrenches: 5.0mm, 5.5mm, 7.0mm

Lexan Scissors, a Needle Nose Pliers, a Hobby knife, and a body reamer are also needed.

Take your time! Do not rush, and follow the directions carefully. The manuel has no words, so be especially vigilant if this is your first kit.

Many people do not use body pins to secure the body, myself included. Just some velcro along the side of the chassis plastic guards and the body are all you need. If you go this route, do not install the front body mount on the nose plate or the side body posts on the chassis guards.

Do not over tighten any of the screws. Carefully thread them in, and stop as soon as they bottom out.

The Kit comes with extremely tight tolerances, and for a reason. The kit may be tight at first, but after a few runs, the plastics will break in the tolerances will be perfect, with 0 slop and free movement. Do not ream anything out, unless you find a bur or something similar in the plastic. I have not heard of any occurrences of this, however.

Spare tuning parts such as antisquat blocks and pistons can be found in bag F.

The car is very durable, but a few parts that have been shown to break are the rear hubs, front steering rack, rear a arms, front spindles, and the rear camber block. Of course, other parts may break as well.

If you have any problems or defects with your kit, call Horizon. Their CS is second to none.

Turnbuckles!!!!!!!! This can be a problem for inexperienced builders. The ball cup ends are extremely hard to thread on, but if you know these tricks it is very easy. First, take a body reamer and open up the opening of the ball cup ends where the turnbuckle threads into. Just ream it out a bit, but don’t overdue it. Now, before starting to thread the turnbuckle on, do one of the following:
A: Use some Chapstick or Beeswax and coat the threads of the turnbuckle
B: Squirt some black grease, white lithium grease, or Vaseline into each ball end (A small dab of grease! A little is all that is needed). This will make threading and turnbuckle adjustment much easier. I personally have used black grease with great success. If you can find the white lithium grease, that stuff is fantastic.
Keep in mind that the notched side of the turnbuckles has right handed threads, and the other side has left handed threads. When installing all of the turnbuckles on the car, make sure the small notch side is on the left of the car when facing forward.

Here is an online walk through with pictures of the build:
http://rcracer.com/off-road-electric...-report-tlr-22

Steering:

Step A-1 to A-3

As stated by Dan, this car has a lot of steering built in to it. In order to get all of that steering, you have to follow a few simple tips. When installing the servo arm on the servo, make sure the servo is centered with no trim or sub trim on your radio. Put the steering arm on as straight up as you can, but one click to the right if that’s not possible. Only ONE CLICK to the RIGHT! (While looking at the front of the servo) Next, before you put the small ball cup turnbuckle together, take a sharp Xacto knife (I find a razor blade works a little better) and cut off 1-2mm on each ball cup where the small turnbuckle threads in. IF you cut too much off, do not worry. Any of the older ball cups used on XXX models, or even AE’s SC10, B4.1, or T4.1 will work. I personally used RPM ball cups, which work perfectly (You still have to cut them). When putting the ball studs on the steering arm and rack, make sure the one on the servo arm and other one, which will connect to the small turnbuckle are the smaller ones without a hex base. Tighten the ball cups on the small turnbuckle almost all the way down, and snap one side onto the steering arm ball cup. Do not attach the other side until you are completed with the build!

You may notice that there is a small high spot in the steering, this is ok, it will break in and smooth out after a few runs.

Step A4

The manuel suggests how many shims are needed for different brands of servos. However, some are incorrect. Here is a current list of confirmed servo shims. The JR and Hitec (Both use 0 shims) in the manuel are correct.

Futaba Servos: 0 shims
Savox 1251 low profile servo: 2-2.5mm of shims. Some bulkhead shaving may be required
Savox 1258: 0-.5mm shims
Savox 1257: 0 shims
Orion Servos: 0 shims
KO Propo 2415 Low profile: 2mm shim

Basically, you want the servo linkage to be parallel, without hitting the servo or bulkhead. If you have to, it’s ok to shave the bulkhead to provide clearance.
Front End:

The kit setup is designed to be good for a variety of tracks and is very easy to drive, but it can leave something to be expected. I highly recommend building the kit as close to Dustin Evan’s Reedy race setup. Every change just makes the car better. If you don’t have the 5 degree front castor blocks, run the kit ones first. However, use Dustin’s amount of shims under ball studs on both the front and rear end. For the front, this will remove the bump steer present in the kit’s setup. Follow his turnbuckle positions as well, and use the 2.5 degree antisquat block in the back. Then add the 5 degree front castor blocks with 25 degree pivot shim, and the 3.5 rear degree lrc block later.

Step A-8:

Install the two m3 locknuts upside down, with the nylon facing downwards. This will allow the bottom screws to reach the nylon.

Step A-13:

Be careful when installing the small setscrews, as they will not bottom out and keep going through the bottom of the plastic pivot block. Thread them so the top of the setscrew is not protruding from the pivot block and you cannot pull the hinge pin out.


Rear End

Step B-3:

Start out with the 2.5 antisquat block, found in the tuning bags. The 2.5 part that goes on top of the toe block does not fit correctly, so use the stock blank one.

[stegger]

THE DIFF!
(It’s so important it gets its own sub-section)

The Diff used in this car is roughly the same as the one AE has used for years, but the big difference is it used 14 main diff balls. IF you build, set, and break in the diff correctly, it will be the best and smoothest diff you will ever own.

-Diff Rings: These are fantastic right out of the kit, and already sanded.
-Main Gear, bearings, and Outdrives: All are excellent
-Thrust Balls: They work fine, but can be replaced for ceramic balls.

Diff Nut and Screw: To avoid problems, I highly suggest simply getting the associated diff nut and screw (you must use them together) Part number: ASC6575
http://www.speedtechrc.com/store/ebp...id=280&id=5639

Main Diff balls: I believe that there were some quality control problems with these, as a few have been able to build their diffs with them without any problems. However, even experienced racers have built super smooth diffs, only to have them gritty after one run. The balls seem to be made of swiss cheese. To solve this problem, get some new carbide main diff balls. BFAST makes excellent ones, and they already come in a kit of 14. AE also has good ones, but they come in kits of 12 so you will have to buy two sets for 14 balls. It has been discussed, and many agree that getting carbide main diff balls and ceramic thrust balls is the way to go. BFAST offers and excellent kit for the 22 with ceramic thrust balls and carbide main diff balls, which IMHO, is the best option out there right now. All BFAST does is specialize in diffs, and they are good at it!

BFAST Diff Parts (You need BD14 and CTB65, but not the BFAST rings as the kit ones are excellent):
http://www.bfastrc.com/tlr.html

Grease: AE’s Clear and Black Diff grease has been they way to go forever, and still is. Dustin Evans was kind enough to help me build my diff, and he went right for my AE grease to build it. When building, line the small channel under the diff rings with the clear grease to prevent them from slipping. Push the rings down, and wipe away the excess grease. Put a little clear grease on a plastic bag, and drop the main balls into it, coating each one. Then, using an exacto knife with a drop of clear grease on the tip, pick up each ball and place it into the little slots in the main gear. After putting all of the balls in, put a “small” dab of clear grease on each ball. Don’t over due it! For the thrust, use a hearty amount of black grease, and wipe of the excess. Put the washer on the screw, then some black grease on the washer, and then plop each of the 6 diff balls onto the grease. Then put the 2nd washer on top, with some more black grease, and using your finger, wipe away the excess grease around it.

Now, insert the screw into the female outdrive, and follow the kit directions. When tightening the screw, don’t tighten it all the way, and leave it loose. Install it into the car, and set it later once you have finished the build.

When you are done with the build, pop a ballcup off and tighten the diff little by little, until it is tight, but not gritty. If you haven’t done it before, go to your local track and find someone who know what they are doing, and have them help you do this and break it in. to break it in, put on wheel on the table, holding it, with the other in the air. Keep it like this, spin the wheel at ¼ throttle for 3-4 minutes, and repeat on the other side. After this, retighten the diff until it is smooth, but not gritty. Again, I highly suggest that you get the help of an expert or someone who knows what they are doing at the track if you do not or have not built a ball diff before!


Rear End Continued:

Tranny: If you run on a low dust indoor clay track, put a dab of black grease on the tranny gears to lightly coat them. If you run on a super dusty outdoor track, leave it dry. For rear motor, the diff should be inserted with the screw facing the drivers (left) side. For Mid motor, it should be facing the right passenger side. When putting the case together, put a drop of threadlock on the motor plate screw holes. Then, tighten the screws sot hey are just snug. Overtightening can cause binding.

Slipper: Add a small spacer between the spring and slipper plate. This allows the screw to get full compression and you can adjust it properly. The replacement springs are longer, and will fix the problem as well. Part # TLR2964 The spacer should be 3-5mm. IMO I would personally use a spacer no matter what, even if the spring is long enough, as there is plenty of space.

Setting the slipper: Start pretty loose to start. Do this after setting your diff. You always want the slipper to slip before the diff. Holding one rear wheel on the table with your hand, and the other rear wheel with the base of your radio, give a quick stab of full throttle. It should slip as you are starting with it loose. Keep tightening the nut until the front does a small wheelie (Not all the way). Your slipper is now perfect.


Gearing: the Gearing Chart is a good place to start

Shocks:

From Matt C and some tips I learned from building mine:

Bottom Cap:

I always use a little AE green slime on the bottom oring chamber and on the orings and spacers themselves. This helps prevent leaking. When inserting the middle spacer between the orings, make sure that you can see the little lip on the inside of the plastic spacer with the top of the shock on the table. When inserting the shock shaft, make sure the bottom cap is loose, and put a little shock oil on the shock threads to prevent ripping the orings. Once the shaft is inserted, tighten the bottom cap all the way down (Matt recommended this).

Pistons: Use a fine sand paper (200-300) and carefully sand away the little mold tabs on the side of the pistons. Go slowly and don't overdo it. The piston should not make a squeaky noise when in the dry shock body.

Now, fill the shock almost up to the top with oil, and work the piston up and down to remove air bubbles. Then, let the shock sit for 10 or so minutes to let all the bubbles float to the top.

With Bladders: Now, starting on one side, slowly push the bladder down to properly seat it. There should be enough oil in the shock that a little comes out when doing this. Hold the bladder down lightly, slowly push the shock shaft up until it almost touches the bladder, but doesn't. More oil should come out. Here's the secret: Making sure the bladder is still fully seated, pull the shaft out to about 1/3 its length. This should suction the bladder in a little bit, and will prevent the bladder from coming unseated while screwing the top cap on. Screw the cap on until you meet resistance, and then unscrew it a turn or so. Push the shaft up to about 1/4 its length, and screw the cap all the way down. Do this a few times until you get as little rebound as possible. A little rebound is ok though.

Without Bladders: Building the shocks with the bladders cut allows the shocks to become emulsion shocks. You want as little rebound as possible with these. The TLR team reports that doing this allows the buggy to land better. Here is a video of Mike Truhe building them emulsion style: http://www.rccaraction.com/blog/2011...om-mike-truhe/

[stegger]

3. Problems

Wheel Nuts Keep Falling Off! The Solution:

A: Loctite them each time you take them off, once it dries, it will provide resistance on the threads. Tighten them as much as you can (Don’t go overboard)
B: Get a very long M3 Screw, and thread it all the way through the axle to the other side of the wheel. Use a nylon locknut to secure the wheel, with a washer underneath it.

Rear Outdrive driveshaft pin keeps sliding out. The solution: Call Horizon up, this is a defect, and should be replaced. Until then, put some CA glue or green threadlock in the slot, and recenter the pin.

Stripped screw: This is probably due to using crappy wrenches or an electric wrench. The solution: Get a dremel tool with a cutoff wheel. Dremel a small slot into the head of the screw, and then use a flathead screwdriver to unscrew it.

Missing a Part? Call Horizon!

Diff is Gritty after one run: Rebuild it, with new diff balls and flip the rings.

Diff Doesn’t seem to tighten all the way (with stock diff nut): Replace it with the AE diff nut and screw.

Slipper keeps slipping, even thought it’s tightened all the way down: Add a small spacer between the spring and slipper plate. This allows the screw to get full compression and you can adjust it properly.


4. Mods and Upgrades:

Honestly, the car doesn’t need much. But there are always those who will tinker.

Battery Hold Down: Don’t like Velcro? Well there are easy ways around it.

A: Diggity Designs makes a nice premade kit, but it is a little expensive and uses screws. http://www.diggitydesigns.com/D3_Los...teryStrap.html
B: My own Design and idea for it: http://www.rctech.net/forum/9000437-post5608.html
C: You can use the B4 battery hold down, along with the losi front steering inserts, and some screws like this: http://www.rctech.net/forum/8988921-post5406.html

Rear Wider Hexes: In order to run Dustin Evan’s setup, you need to add 2mm to the hexes in the rear, to add width to the car. Now, after some testing, the widest hexes you can use with the stock wheel nuts are 5.6mm, which is 1.8mm wider. Do not go any wider with the stock wheel nuts, as the axle won’t reach the nylon part of the nut.
Losi offers aluminum hubs, in plus .75mm, 1mm, and 1.5mm. Personally, I would not spend $13 on them. Instead, pick up these traxxas hubs. They are a perfect fit, they do have a small lip on the back by the pin (just raised around the slot) When you shave that lip off, they are an exact 5.6mm, which is the widest you can go. Cost $2 as well, so you can order 3 sets and sand them to various desired widths. http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...xle-Pin-Collar

You can also run the full +2mm rear hexes (Traxxas ones work perfect, no sanding needed) when using these locknuts: https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/c...ns&pn=TRX1747R

Chassis Protector: Want to protect your nice new aluminum chassis?
Chassis Tape works well, but it is very hard to punch holes in the correct places, so if you have to remove a screw the whole thing has to come off. Same with the Upgrade RC wrap.
Fastlane Graphix offers a nice one with precut holes. Upgrade's protector is thicker than Fastlane. For both Upgrade and Fastlane, you can choose and design a wrap from many colors and schemes.

Upgrade RC: http://www.rcidcustom.com/mm5/mercha...ory_Code=RCD41

Fastlane Graphix: http://shop.fastlanegear.com/

TLR Upgrades: TLR has a host of upgrades for the cars, such as aluminum front and rear hubs, titanium turnbuckles, and an aluminum steering rack. TLR also offers an aluminum diff nut, which will also solve problems with the stock one. However, you will be paying $15 for one that is still harder to put together and will work the same as the $2 AE one. Your choice. You can see them on this page:
http://www.tlracing.com/Products/Def...ickAccessories

Nice Tools: TLR offers some nice tools for this kit, and one shines in particular. It is a diff adjustment tool, that allows you to tighten or loosen the diff without popping off any turnbuckles. IMHO, it is a must have for any 1/10 vehicle.
http://www.speedtechrc.com/store/ebp...=1014&id=11383

They also have a nice aluminum shock tool set, but it isn’t really needed.
http://www.speedtechrc.com/store/ebp...=1014&id=11015

Their Metric Tool set is well worth the money. http://www.tlracing.com/Products/Def...odID=LOSA99109

Dynamite offers a nice set of Cheap Nut Drivers. They work very well, I use them myself. http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Nut-Driver-Set

Losi’s ride height gage works fine if you don’t already have one. I Particularly like the ride height gage, because it works on all of my vehicles, both 1/10 and 1/8. I use the RPM monster camber gauge for the same reason, and it works just as well with both 1/10 and 1/8 vehicles. Most camber and ride height gages will work just fine as well.
http://www.speedtechrc.com/store/ebp...id=846&id=7311

http://www.speedtechrc.com/store/ebp...id=846&id=9361

Bodies: Currently, your only options for bodies are the stock Losi ones and FTW’s cab forward bodies sold at Avidrc.com. I’m sure many other companies will soon add their interpretations to the list, and it is confirmed JCONCEPTS will be coming out with a punisher body for it soon.

Stock: http://www.speedtechrc.com/store/ebp...=1014&id=11068

FTW Vane: http://www.avidrc.com/product/18/bod...es-by-ftw.html

FTW Blade: http://www.avidrc.com/product/18/bod...es-by-ftw.html

Wings: Any 1/10th buggy wing will work, so you can experiment with different types. The stock wing comes with small nipples to show you where to ream the holes. These holes work perfect for the midmotor config. However, most pros have been running their wings forward towards the shock tower, like most other 1/10 wings. (In the rear motor position). The reason being the rear motor shock tower is so much farther forward than the mid motor. Here is a picture of Dustin Evan’s wing to show you what I mean:


Wheels: If you were one of the many to switch from the XXX-CR to the 22, chances are you have an arsenal of wheels and tires for the XXX-CR. You’re in luck, sort of. TLR was kind enough to include two sets of front and rear wheels in the box, which I give two big thumbs up to. It should keep you busy for a few weeks minimum until more wheels become available. If you find you need more wheels, you can use your old XXX-CR rear wheels on the buggy if you take the hex off to leave the spacer and pin. However, you cannot use the XXX-CR fronts. Losi 4wd fronts will work as temporary replacements. Keep in mind the 4wd fronts are slightly wider.

XXX-CR Rear wheels: http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...heels-Yellow-2

Losi 4wd Fronts:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...heels-Yellow-2

Chris Has also come up with a great little part that allows you to use either B4.1 or XXX-CR rear wheels and attain the +2mm Dustin Evan's setup calls for!

Quote: If anyone wants to run there old b4 or xxx rims I had some spacers made to accomplish that. You can get them and see more pictures here
These push the wheels out 2mm like Evans setup, but you need to use the serrated nuts, but guys have had good luck running regular 4mm nylon nuts backwards, this works with the wider traxxas hexes or spacers and the stock 22 rims too.

[stegger]

5. Pro Setups & Sheets

For the majority of US tracks, rear motor seems to be the faster choice. However, in certain conditions the Midmotor can be. However, the Midmotor really needs the weight kit, which currently isn’t available.

For the majority of indoor clay tracks, Dustin Evan’s setup is the way to start. It is leaps and bounds better than the kit setup. It will work on a variety of other surfaces as well.
http://www.tlracing.com/ProdInfo/Fil...1ReedyRace.pdf

The parts you will need to buy to run this setup:

Wider Hexes
5 Degree Front Castor Blocks
3.5 Degree Rear LRC Block

Frank Root also tried out the midmotor setup here in the US at OCRC, and here it is: http://www.tlracing.com/ProdInfo/Fil...kRoot-OCRC.pdf

Here is the setup page from TLR drivers, and is updated with new sheets form different drivers. http://www.tlracing.com/Products/Tec...ProdID=TLR0022

Here is Casey Pecks Setup, which is better suited for outdoor rough hardpacked tracks.
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...cks-SRSwet.jpg

This came up, so I will mention it here. I will also continue to add info on how different tuning adjustments affect the car.

How do the 25/5 (DE) front kickup compare to the 20/10 (Stock) front kick up?

Originally Posted by Casper:
The 25/5 setup has a little more steering and seems to be a little better all around.

It doesn't just give you more steering.... Kickup only affects how easily weight transfers through to the front suspension arms, which will only affect off-power steering. Remember, some settings/changes affect static steering (steering on, off, and neutral power), some settings/changes affect only on-power steering, and some settings/changes affect only OFF-power steering.

So in short, 25/5 will give you more off-power steering than 20/10 will. It wont affect nuetral power steering, or on-power steering. Total caster will, however. If you want your backend to kick around a little more, then run 25/5. If you need more rear-end stability when braking, run 20/10.

Spring Rates: Thanks for this chart Jeremy!



6. Completing Your Ride

Lipos: In rear motor, almost any 1/10 pack will fit. Standard stick packs, saddle packs, and the new shorty 96mm lipos. In mid motor, only saddle packs and the short 96mm pack will fit. The short 96mm packs are ideal in both configurations because of their low weight, small size, and small amount of wires. Losi and Venom are currently the only two companies to offer the short 96mm 2s 60C 3800mah packs. The Losi pack has been proven to be excellent, and venom lipos have always been very high quality and a good value.

Shorty Pack Battery Position: A good place to start for the battery position is 1 pad laid down+ one pad standing up in front of the battery for rear motor configuration.

Venom Shorty Pack: http://www.venom-group.com/itemdesc.asp?ic=15064

Losi Shorty Pack: http://www.speedtechrc.com/store/ebp...d=596&id=10735

Motors: Pretty Much any brushless 540 motor will work!

ESC: The 22 can provide some challenges to fit all of your electronics in under the body, but in the end it actually makes for a very clean install. I have yet to come across an ESC that doesn’t fit, even my old Novak GTB esc with its huge purple heatsink fits on the ESC tray in rear motor config. I highly suggest using the ESC mounting positions designed by TLR, they are there for a reason. The Tekin RS ESCs are prefect for this car, as they are small, run very cool, and allow you to solder the wires on as you please. Most of the LRP ESC’s also work very well.

Servos: Any 1/10 servos will fit, however some of the larger ones can leave a small amount of space for the receiver. Some excellent low profile servos are the Spektrum S6070 servo, and the Savox SC-1251MG servo.

Spektrum S6070: http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Surface-Servo

Savox SC-1251: http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...tal-Gear-Servo

Receivers: Pretty much, the smaller the better. The older Spektrum SR300, SR300, and SR3001 receivers will only fit on their side or diagonally with large servos like the JR 9100s. (Here is a picture of my SR3001 receiver with the very large JR 9100s servo)


Transponder: As you can see in the previous picture, an AMB transponder fits perfectly on top of the servo.

Body Velcro: Instead of using the body mounts, use velcro instead to secure the body. It leaves no holes in your body that can crack, and allows easy body installation and removal. Here is a picture (the velcro is white):



Setting Your Steering: Now that you have installed everything, it is time to set your steering. With the steering arm one click to the right, and both the steering turnbuckles the same length (pointing straight ahead) Adjust the small steering turnbuckle (which we cut the ball cups earlier) until the wheels point as close to straight ahead as possible when the steering servo is on and centered. (To see if the steering is pointing straight ahead, lightly hold the ball cup onto the balls stud) When you complete this, snap the ball cup on. Now, with your EPA set to max on both sides, turn the wheel all the way to the right. The servo will probably start making noise, this is normal. Wiggle both wheels when the steering is at full throw. Now, slowly start backing the EPA off. Keep going, until there starts to be a little slop in one or both wheels. Then, add more epa, so there is no slop again. Then do maybe 2 more clicks than 0 slop from that point to be on the safe side. Repeat with the left side, and your steering is set! Use the trim option on your menu to make the wheels point exactly straight if they are a little off center.


Conclusion:

I would like to thank everyone who helped contribute the information for this guide, and I hope it will answer all of your questions. I will continue to update and change the information, and it should save you from reading through 400+ pages of info. And most importantly, thank you Dan and TLR for making a rockin buggy!

And of course, the result of all of this knowledge!


Paint Courtesy of Roly of RC3 Grafix!











7. The Log!

Every time I update the guide, I will add what, when, and where it was changed. Thanks for the tip Steve!

1. April 27th: Added "The Log"
2. April 28th: Added BFAST Diff Page and Part #s Section 2
3. April 29th: Added Team Driver "Blue Screw's" Tips to Section 1
4. April 30th: Added Turnbuckle Assembly details Section 2
5. May 2nd: Added Slipper Details Section 2
6. May 4th: Added Jeremy's Spring Rate Chart Section 5
7. May 9th: Added Chris' B4.1 and XXX-CR Wheel Adapter

[Razer]

After this weekends worlds warmup I have a few things...

With all weight kits being made, I see most of them placing the weight low down. I put 20 grams in the end of my battery compartment by the gearbox(Rearmotor config), as most setups use some weight behind there, but mostly in the not so roomy place just on top of the gearbox behind the tower.

After chatting a bit with Dyno-Dan, he convinced me to move it up on the gearbox, since this car has such a low COG and is so narrow.

Maaaan. It was a revelation. I took away my 20 grams, and put 15 of them on top of the gearbox, and the rear end was so much more locked in, I barely could believe it.

Also, another great place to put a little weight, is to put 2x5 grams just behind the front bumper, stuck on the hinge pin brace. Makes it easier to keep the nose down on those big jumps.

The rear weight kit for the mid motor fits brilliantly for the rear motor btw, just cut off the piece that usually goes down the back of the mid gearbox. The you have a bolt on weight on top of the box. It then weighs in at 30g, but I'm planning to cut off a bit more.

Another good tip is having the bottom caps on the dampers as loose as you can, it frees up the damping a bit. Look out for the new black low friction O-rings.

[D20MCK]

Originally Posted by Razer

Also, another great place to put a little weight, is to put 2x5 grams just behind the front bumper, stuck on the hinge pin brace. Makes it easier to keep the nose down on those big jumps.

I did this about 4 weeks ago, but I made a brass brace to get the extra weight up front. Was thinking about making some up to sell if anyone is interested.

Kit brace is only 1 gram my brass brace is 11 grams.