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#21
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Yes its the AB-130 as opposed to the AB-135 shown in your post same size needle/nozle just larger paint cup.
But for £13.99 u can thro it it the bin if u cant get on with it. ![]() I was looking at getting an iwata brush till i saw this brush, thought id give it a go see what gravity feed is like compared to suction, And i can tell u that the air pressure reqired is vastly reduced so a lot less spiders ![]()
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#22
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Gravity is just far better for the Faskolor paint.
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dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#23
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northy the a130 is the one i use, i can highly recomend it, for somewere between £10-£15 its worth every penny, and the gravity feed guns are always better with createx or faskolor, i use both paints at 30-40 psi, with acheap compressor from B&Q £50 noisey but doest the job,
O lovin the shell on atomic carbons site another of my creations
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Mattys the driver,my names carl
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#24
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#25
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re: thinning Faskolor - if you only want to thin it a little, then tap water is useable, but if you want it THIN, you have to use stuff like Windex, water makes the paint pigment repel against the water, so you get pockets of paint in the water, whereas the windex type route, it bonds temporarily to the pigment, holds it together, thins it nice.
Best faskolor for spraying, Fasblack, worst is FasWhite. If you want to back a light colour without affecting it's 'hue' bet sealing it from affects of other dark colours, you can use FasKrome, it is ace.
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dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#26
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JCJC.
No Probs Matey ![]() DCM. Cant find windex in the uk , but if you look at its make-up its mainly water with IPA (rubbing alcohol) and a smidge of (so the wife tells me, shes a phd in chemistry) anti-freeze. A good replacement for windexs is carplan screenwash for your car... ![]() ![]()
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#27
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as long as it is a clear solution, although I have heard people using Blue Windex(??) but if you find something that works, ace, let me know.
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dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#28
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I you read the cfx paintwork forum they prefer the blue, say it brings out the colour.....
I've got some 99.5%proff IPA coming soon will try that and let u know. The alcohol not only thins but it also dry's alot quicker than either neat or watered down. Im only a novice at this myself , but have read a hell of a lot about it. But as they say its not the equipment its the artist that makes the body shell, and im no artist just fancied a dabble at it after playing with rattle cans. This gives a bit more variety and hey if im no good can at lest use it to go back to 1-2 colour, colour schemes..... ![]()
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#29
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If you're using an airbrush with gravity feed do you just need a compressor, hose (to connect the two) and paint or are other things required?
Thanks.
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#30
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thats pretty much the basics.
Compressor (or other source of compressed air) Hose, Airbrush,(gravity feed just means the way the paint is feed into the brush from a top mounted cup, as oppossed to being sucked up from a glass pot.) something to mask with if you fancy more than a 1 colour shell, Paint, And away you go, but would recommend a face mask (desposable paper ones do the job), stop you getting multi coloured lungs. But thats personal choice not essencial. And the main ingredients imagination and insparation..... ![]() HTH
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Last edited by shinytopman; 07-01-2007 at 08:54 PM. |
#31
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Probablya pressure regulator would be good to.... and the mask stops the multi-coloured boogies....
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dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#32
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#33
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Thanks for the tips guys!
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